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My mistake- my apologies to you!

It wasn’t sarcasm, I just didn’t understand.

talking about Pink Floyd 😁

Had a long ride with my bike today ..so I didn´t spun anything today , but yesterday a bit A day at the races from Queen even in the quietest moments from Supertramp and finally the wall from Pink Floyd

Summer temps here ..we have these amazing polarlights here in germany as well

Die Spielsachen sind alle kaputt 😂 ( all toys are damaged ) HHHMMM....somehow I´ll understand this language 🤪

of course , a must have in every collection and the bluray live concert as well , an outstanding perfomance

Look for more corrosion, cool. Got any electronic contact spray , example deoxit or crc...

Sarcasm noted- thanks. I'll keep my questions to myself from here on.

Opened the fuse holders and found corrosion in the springs, cleaned and sanded with 400 grit and the woofer and mid are back- tweeter is now there but low output- it ohms out at 7.6 ohms. Wiggled the polyswitch and no difference. I'll keep my questions to myself, thanks for the assist.

That is the case...go figure.

At first, he didn’t have a tweeter. After moving some things around, he ends up with no midrange or woofer. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Corrosion connection can be a problem from crossover to speakers like you know. Polyswitch damage may be answer. Can you bypass the switch...

I wasn’t going to mention it in this thread, but I will since the speakers are sold. I bought a pair of Verity Audio Parsifal Ovations. They will absolutely not work with anything close to low power. I got them at a price too good to pass up and I’ll say I am smitten.

Wow so selling all your amps and your beloved speakers. What’s the change in direction?

Sold

other speaker is sounding great- funny part is the one that sounds great has water damage and rust on box and grill, the one that sounds bad looks much better. go figure...

@Deang I’m not clear why you are pointing me to this. It is basically displaying PWR vs THD+n levels at different test frequencies. @Deang As you said if you go to Best Buy site information is limited to just a PWR Rating without Distortion or Bandwidth parameters specified but for example if you go to the manufacturer website like this Denton Model you will find the following specifications. Notice how they have given a valid PWR specification of 90w with 8-ohm Impedance, (20hz to 20kHz) Bandwidth and 0.08% T.H.D. Distortion specifications. Then they start playing games with the 125w with it being specified at 6-ohm, 1kHz, 0.7% T.H.D which is a clear indicator that the amplifier will not be capable of 125w from (20hz to 20kHz) bandwidth. This is clearly advertising meant to deceive the naive consumers. IMHO its Buyer beware when manufactures use these practices..!! I think I’ve spent about as much time on this as I care to on this subject.. 🙂 miketn Brochure: MANUAL:

Guess other speaker alright. Dean, others talking about poly switch recently. Guess you verified any connection on crossover by physically using screwdriver to un and retighten.

@geoff.

He veneered the top and sides of the boards. I felt like I was doing surgery. I covered as much of the veneer as possible while soldering. I also charged for the autoformers and extra for packing since they were going across the border. I think actual labor was $200 per board. He’s basically selling for cost of the parts. Pretty good deal from where I’m sitting.

Need vs. want.

Hi all, I got a pair of 301-A this weekend- when I got them the tweeter had zero output at all. They have the KP-3.0B crossover I took the tweeter and woofer out when I got home and checked continuity of all the drivers and none showed open- the polyswitch showed about 1.5 ohms when I checked it so I think it is working but perhaps has been set off a few times based on what I've read here about resistance going up after they have been triggered? I then went straight to each driver from the amp at a very low volume and confirmed all of them are outputting, then put it all back together, and now- only the mid has output- no woofer or tweeter output. I'm quite sure my connections are solid off the crossover, I took a pic of it before and after and also wrote down the connections so it should be the same as it was when I opened the box. I want to test the crossover, but have never done so and wonder if the caps can be tested in the circuit or do they need to be removed before hand? From all I've read here the inductors are not going to an issue, and the resistors look fine with no sign of getting hot or scorching I checked fuses and they are fine- stumped on next step. I'm not a total idiot but frankly I've never understood crossovers so am in the dark here. Suggestions?

Mother's Day bump Nothing says " I love you mom"! like a pair of Klipsch Professional speakers.

those are BEAUTIFUL... and I bet they sound wonderful.