BusaDude

Sorry to create such a stir... My saying Baltic Birch was in relation to the facing (top layers). There's so much argument over what is or isn't used or is/isn't real BB, that I wasn't thinking about the semantics of what I was typing. In any event, every pair of LaScalas that I own, appears to be made from 11/16"(18mm), 7 layer plywood, with a Birch layer on both the top and bottom. That assumption is based on the fact that Klipsch uses the letter B (for birch) right on the label. Hope everyone's happy now...

The LaScala I was made of Baltic Birch plywood... It was finished either as: BR (Birch Raw = unfinished) BL (Birch Lacquer = clear lacquer) FB (Fin Blk = black lacquer) There may have been some custom order finishes (stains) from the factory over the years. But most were those three. #17 is the grill color And 1992 would be the year of manufacture. There have been quite a few discussions/threads about the specific "black lacquer" finish that Klipsch has used over the years. But I'm not sure what it was. Someone else may be able to point you in that direction if you need to know exactly what it is.

http://www.critesspeakers.com/ https://web.archive.org/web/20111127152631/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2-5

Road trips are always fun though. If you know what you're doing, I'll throw in some Royal tickets and let you spend the night, lol. Yes, they are H2's, H#WO, born the 6th week of 1985. 1985 was the switchover year between the Heresy I and II... Pictures would confirm, but the Heresy I has the woofer and horns screwed to the back of the motorboard from inside the cabinet. And the back of the cabinet is removable and screwed down. Heresy II has a fixed, non-removable back and the woofer and horns are screwed onto the front of the motorboard.

Thanks for the link.I love that you can read the thoughts from a 1985 perspective. I'd be curious to hear these as it, but they obviously need some help! The reviewer didn't seem too keen on them. My friend (who is very young - early 20's) said they sounded amazing before he bought them. His father in law has a Mcintosh amp in storage that he wants to sell - THAT I am interested in seeing! I could have sworn there was an article in the old "Stereo Review" magazine that I'd read years ago... But I couldn't find any reference to it online. I'd always read positive things about JBL's, but have never owned a pair. I think everyone should own a McIntosh amp at least once... Something special about them. I had a MC 7270 for a few years driving my Chorus II's and really loved it.

Link to a review from Stereophile... http://www.stereophile.com/content/jbl-250ti-loudspeaker#gilD9vStA2EvmfVS.97

Link to the specs and a photo... https://web.archive.org/web/20120202142037/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4-5

No affiliation... Decent looking pair, but one needs a tweeter diaphragm. Local pickup in Terrell, Texas which is about 30 miles east of Dallas. https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/ele/5545626332.html

Looks like you're missing a couple of digits from the serial number? Post a picture of the serial number tags to be sure, but it's probably 1987. Here's the tag from my 1988 pair for comparison.

Check out the major brands... 3M, Llumar, etc. They work. I had my whole house done when it was built in 1998. And have NO fading of carpets or blinds. It cuts way back on the radiant heat coming through as well. http://m.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/mWindow-Film/Solutions/Residential/

Because some people just can't follow the rules. So why are those people allowed to hang around? If you can't read/understand the rules before you post or after you've been warned, then they should be given a long timeout. If it happens again, delete/block their account and all their posts. And if you look at most of these posts and locked threads, it's almost always the same group of 5-10 people who like to "stir the pot" or post a "before it's locked" comment... Just send them on their way (permanently).

Why not use a writable CD/DVD? Even if the old PC doesn't have a rewritable CD/DVD drive, they can be purchased for around $20... And there are all kinds of PATA/IDE/SATA conversion cables to connect to the old motherboard.

No affiliation... Nice looking pair of RF-7's https://dallas.craigslist.org/mdf/ele/5540889801.html

I'll be watching the NHL playoffs (Go Stars) over the next 6 weeks or so... Kobe is a prima donna fraud who retired 3 years ago.

That's a scam... If you email them, they'll already be sold.

I doubt the movie was mixed too hot. Though sometimes in movies the dialog can get buried in the effects mix. It sounds like it's simply a bad recording... Maybe it's a compression artifact related to iTunes? And if you're listening at -17, with a center that's another -8 dB down, then there's very little chance any "clipping" is taking place... particularly for a movie like Step Brothers.

The letter N is for 1975. BB is Birch Black And what looks like a 1 is probably an I or L, so that would be 1970 or 1973. (Edit - some of the date information says the letter "I" wasn't used? So it's probably an L.) There is a dedicated link on here about "date codes", just search or Google "Klipsch Date Codes".

I emailed the seller and asked for a picture of the serial/model number tag... Let's see if they reply.

I guess I've never seen it that way before, or my memory is failing me (also likely). Because I could've sworn the 1976 Cornwalls I once owned had it as "CW WO" for the Walnut Oil finish. I wonder if the Klipsch employees sometimes did it differently with the hand signed serial tags?

Niles SMS-10 Says it can handle 10 pair of speakers... It's probably for sound distribution, but maybe it would work. http://www.nilesaudio.com/product.php?prodID=SMS-10&recordID=High%20Power%20Impedance%20Matching%20System&categoryID=Speaker%20Selectors&prdcdID=FG00229

A full KLF system will sound great with music or movies. The KLF-30's are a bit harder to find, so if you find a pair of KLF-20's instead, don't dismiss them. It will be hard for me to forgo the torque of the Busa. And I'd still love to turbo charge one at some point in the future. BUT, I wouldn't mind having a BMW flat-twin (R1200 RT) either. Good luck in your search for the KLF's and report back (with pictures) when you get it set up.

There might be some high-end 11 channel AVR's or pre-amps that have dual zone capabilities, where you might be able to have 2 separate 5.1 setups. But I don't know of any and if they exist, they're probably quite expensive.

Not affiliated... Nice looking pair. Ad says Oiled Oak, but the tag says "CWL", so apparently Birch or Oak lacquered. https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/ele/5534931217.html

When they were first introduced... Klipschorn 1946 Heresy 1957 Cornwall 1959 LaScala 1963 Belle 1971 Forte 1985 Chorus 1987 Quartet 1989 I'd put them in this order sound wise... Klipschorn LaScala I & II Belle Chorus II Cornwall Forte II Chorus Forte Quartet Heresy

Yeah, I've owned two over the years... A blue/silver 2000 model and a black/red 2011. The 2000 had a few updates Yosh exhaust, airbox, fully rebuilt RaceTech suspension (front/back), etc. The 2011 is completely stock. Some ongoing back issues (see my avatar) have limited my riding over the last few years. I've owned Cornwalls, Chorus II's and KLF-20's. I preferred the Chorus II's and KLF-20's over the Cornwalls. For me, I think the Tractrix midrange is what made the difference. I don't know that I could choose between the KLF20 and the Chorus II... Though they are different. I think the Chorus II's are some of the smoothest, most accurate speakers Klipsch has made. The bass (from 40 Hz or so on up) is clean, accurate and has a "snap" to it. It also needs (in my opinion) a really good, high power amplifier (at least 100 wpc minimum) to sound it's best. The KLF-20 goes deeper (than the Chorus II's) and can really thump you in the chest or shake a room. It's maybe not quite as smooth, but they're close. The KLF's also seem to perform better with a higher power amp. The KLF-30 and Chorus II are similar in that they don't reach down as low, but are more efficient (and maybe slightly better balanced) than the KLF-20 and Forte II. But if good, solid, low bass is most important, go with the Forte II's or KLF-20's.