jimjimbo

OK, America.

Ranger? Constellation? Midway? Island is hard to make out. I only see one E-2 which is normally where they were parked. AT1 (NAC)

Not sure why you wouldn't want something to protect your gear. These are "rock solid", built like a tank, and work very well. No snake oil, no BS. https://www.amazon.com/Furman-SS6B-Power-Conditioner/dp/B0002D017M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3JCTXSTX6DYC9&keywords=furman%2Bpower%2Bstrip&qid=1652728353&sprefix=furman%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-3&th=1

Didn't want to miss all the fun.

Really, wow. You're so smart.

AT THIS POINT, THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO REMOVE THE WOOFER HATCH DOOR TO TAKE A READING DIRECTLY FROM THE WOOFER TERMINALS. Once again, the EASIEST way to verify whether the woofer is good or not is to remove the wires on the crossover marked "Woofer". Place your meter leads on each of the wire ends and take a reading. You can then further investigate if this reading is zero or is intermittent. Why some here are making this more difficult is ridiculous. @postman56You are welcome to PM me, I am happy to assist.

I’m afraid you would be “left” out…..

Well OK then.

No, pull the amp to speaker connection.

So much easier is to disconnect the crossover wires that go to the woofer. Set your meter to ohms (resistance). Take a reading. Should not be zero

Can you post a link that supports this?

Well, that's just not true. Mods do not "infer" butcher work. Many buyers are looking for plug and play these days.

That is a great setup.

Certainly agree with this. Reflective surfaces such as windows, floors, etc. along with other environmental issues and placement can significantly alter your sound quality.

Recommend you place an ad at USAudiomart, or any of the many Klipsch FaceBook groups. Include lots of photos and a good description of drivers, crossovers, etc.

Are you going to run 2 channel or multi-channel? Home theater?

To me, the woofers don't look original. Look more like Crites replacements, which is a good thing. Depending upon a closer inspection of the cabinets and the interior, $600 is an OK price.

Duratex I’ve restored worse.

Photos of your LS might help.

Obviously you still don’t know.

If you need some, let me know.

He already has. Perhaps you should keep up with their website.

Yea, that whole loathsome economics discussion that has offended so many.

You are really struggling here, and it's quite obvious. So, what you are saying is that the "very same tools and technologies" were utilized for the development/engineering of the CW3 AND the CW4, even though their releases were quite a number of years apart? I don't think so.

I will be brief. I have heard both the CW3 and CW4 in a dealer's space in Chicago, side by side, same sources, same amps, same music. The CW4 was head and shoulders above the CW3 in width and depth of soundstage, much smoother and balanced in all aspects of HF, Mid and LF. Not sure what else to say, but then based on your previous posts in this thread, you probably won't believe me, nor care. And honestly, I moved away from Cornwalls years ago and have had La Scalas/Khorns/KPT-904s /Heresy 4s since then. And you can't think of any advances in audio engineering in the last 17 years, really?