Trey Cannon

Well I am free to talk now...I am finaly getting to buy a house... I have been working for the last year trying to get back on my feet. I set out with a plan and have been working towards that. Now I am getting out paying rent and into owning my own place. If things go well, I will move at the end of Sept. Thank you to you all for the support and friendship over the years.

I have ask for help in the past...clearing house, brotherly support, setting up tents all kinds of help. good vibes and that what is to happen is ment to happen. Life is getting much better... Love to all that have supported me in the past and more. Don't ask just yet...don't want to "jenks" anything. []

If you make it easy for me I will help....send me TSP for the drivers and curve data if they have it...cabinet dims and I will thoss something together for you. trey.cannon@KLIPSCH.COM

the truth is you dont want it. The video cable from the camera to the mixer was so long that it caused a timming issue. the video looks out of focus for the entire show. The sound did not mix well in the video feed. levels out of whack. We live and learn. I will talk to the marketing dept and the bands in question and maybe put a song or two on the down load page.

Welcome to the forum...sorry about your luck. The right answer is to never say never about electronics. Most if not all Subs have protection for the inputs. The only thing I can think of would be "DC" on the sub out of the receiver...It would be very strange for this to happen and the sub should have a cap in line to stop any "DC". Thus, I would say you have just ran into some bad luck.

Last time I looked he had a PRO amp running things. BGM but I am not sure. High dampining factor, low distoration and lots of headroom.

you have to admire the effort given to letting you know. Welcome to the forum Musick7, don't let these fuddyduddies give you a hard time. You make some valid statements. What has changed in the world of subs is the size. The trend that sales right now is small. We make some nice subs that are much smaller than the past. We still make the KW-120 *2 + KA-100 for big subs. We no longer make a 15" for home use. We would love to make big subs again, but no one buys them....well not enough buy them.

He changed to a SS amp just as soon as he could. [6]

PWK would call it 100809

One thing for sure is that if you use a factor of 5 for your headroom, the power number becomes a little less of an issue. FYI: for speakers what we do is run them with an IEC standard (I think 266A) signal using RMS Voltage to set the test. RF-62 IEC standard in to amp, out of amp to speaker at 24.5 Vrms with speaker as load. Ran for 8 hr. to confirm. To find the point of failure, we ease up 25 watts every 2 hr. If it dies at 125 W we back it down to 100 W and run the 8hr test. If a few pass, that is where it is ratted. For me, I wish we would quit using Watts and Ohms in the spec's. How about using Volts and Min Z. Then with a little math you can find most anything else you want. Over seas, you have to post Min Z on every speaker and test the power with that number.

Another word that is used is Continus power. I kind of like this one....stright forward. Here is how we rate the Aragon amps...well when we owned them. Specifications design 5-ch THX Ultra2 Amplifier power ouput 8 200 watts/ch into 8 ohms at less than 0.03% THD (20Hz-20kHz - 3 channels driven) power output 4 300 watts/ch into 4 ohms at less than 0.05% THD frequency response 20Hz-20kHz +0/-0.1dB 10Hz-100kHz +0/-0.5dB tim/dim distortion 0.003% s/n ratio 106dB A-weighted damping factor 500 (8 ohms - 50Hz) input sensitivity 100mV-1W / 1.42V-200W input impedance 20k ohms power consumption 105W @ Idle / 1200W Maximum built from 2002

YES, 150Wpc is just right. The Sony you have is lacking in the power supply dept. My guess is your are clipping the receiver and sending it low rez MP3 signal. both are hard on tweeters. Check your mail, I sent you one. WELCOME TO THE FORUM!

Not sure a foot is what that is ment to rub.... []

AND FEW ROADS....I don't have to out run them, only you...

If you like mixed drinks...Old Charter 10, 12 or 101 is a fine choice...if you can get it up there Picky. I just make my own. 7 gal at a time...its clear, smooth and will kick your butt. Tasters welcome!

How about a layout of your room...that may help me at lest. I still say LS is the way to go. Big live sound, plenty of product on the use market, easy to replace drivers and xover. I had the LS for a long time and a few different times in the past. I have THX now... Worked on the THX every time we have done anything to it...so I know that product. As for the THX drivers, They are built to exced THX Ultra 2 standards. The HF is a 1 inch TI with a 14oz mag. It is the same (short of the arc of the dome) driver as in some of our pro gear. (KI prodcut, KPT and Heritage) In truth, in a correct size room and the gear all set to THX U2 settings, you will need to turn the speaker levels down to about -4db to meet THX spec. At lest that is the case in our THX room. I NEVER run the sub on THX. NEVER! Many pre-pro sub outs can not even driver the amp in to max out in THX mode. (it takes 3 volts to get there)

Jubs will run you about 7-8k a pair. You can get used Khorns or LS for about 1k a pair. You can get 2 times the volume from the KH or LS than you get from THX product in that room. I suggest LS because it will be easier to do. KH will have to have a corner. NOTHING you do will sound like it will in a closed room. the way I understand your room, the pool is behind the speaker. Which means any speaker you put there will only have the floor for a boundry. You loose the normal "room gain" you get from the walls in a normal room. you will miss out on some of the "punch" of the system. Go to a live show with the speakers hanging above the stage...they have a large number of cabinets to help with covarge and output. If you want to move more air, get a bigger fan.

An answer is not worth my time.

Please! No way can their stuff keep up with Klipsch when compairing = speakers. IF they could, they would hold more than 50 % of the US Cinema and 60% of Asia and South Amreica new houses instead of Klipsch. We are and have been the leader in Cinema sound for years. As for a place to get the pro line....Contact our customer service and they can get you in contact with a Klipsch sales rep for your area. He can hook you up with a dealer you can buy from. Khorns will do the job no problem, IF you have a corner or can build one for the speakers. They must have one to work. The La Scala may be a better choice. No corner needed and will reach the volume you want no problem... Don't forget your amps...your biggest and best friend in something like this is "HEADROOM" I use a factor of 5...If I need 20Watts to reach the volume I want, I use a 100 Watt amp. 1-800-554-7724

I have used the weight of the speaker to hold the back in place...I set up 2 one gal paint cans to set the speaker on. I placed it on its back on the cans after applying the glue. and putting the parts back in the cabinet.

We do have some very new guys up in the Customer service area...Most of our products are older than they are.... Try this... INSTRUCTION SHEET FOR REPAIRING LOOSE KLF FRONTS AND BACKS A: LOOSE BACK 1: Remove drivers from cabinet. 2: Lay cabinet on back with the front pointing upwards. 3: Using 80 grit sand paper lightly scuff the surface of the back along the area were it comes in contact with the sides of the cabinet. 4: Apply a bead of Liquid Nails about 1/4” or 6 mm wide over the entire area were the back and sides join. 5: Allow at least 2 hours to dry, Then install drivers. B: LOOSE FRONT 1: Remove drivers from cabinet. 2: Lay cabinet on one side. 3: On the side facing down lightly scuff the surface of the front along the area were it comes in contact with the sides of the cabinet with 80 grit. 4: Apply a bead of Liquid Nails about 1/4” or 6 mm over the entire area were the back and sides join. 5: Lay cabinet on opposite side and repeat steps 3&4. 6: Set cabinet with the top down 7: Using 80 grit sand paper, lightly scuff the surface of the back along the area were it comes in contact with the top the cabinet. Repeat step 4. 8: Set cabinet with bottom down. 9: Using 80 grit sand paper, lightly scuff the surface of the back along the area were it come in contact with the bottom of the cabinet. Repeat step 4. 10: Allow at least 2 hours to dry. Install drivers.

1-800-554-7724 (1-800-klipsch) They can get you another one... It will be a few days, as we are in the middle of "end of year" and softwear changes...Shipping will start again next week if everything goes well.

Yes sir! You can take them out of the cabinet and make them inwall if you like... IW-250

Good questions. What you want is a bigger fan... The KL-650 has a spec when in the entire system of 120db in a 3000 cubic Ft room from 20 -20kH. Your room is a bit large for that speaker to make that volume level. There are many options. I would be looking in our pro line. KPT-325 or KPT-Jubilee535 and get 3 of them...LCR the 650 will be ok for surrounds. You will have to use a DSP unit for crossover or build a passive. I think we can help with that...we may even have a passive net for them. I am not sure on that as I work in the Home product side of things.

Black Oak is a town in Craighead County, Arkansas, USA. The population was 286 at the 2000 census. Jim "Dandy" Mangrum is related to our family down the line somewhere. The last time I went to one of their shows was in Texarkana, Tx at the college. The cops told everyone to sit down and not to stand in the chairs...Jim told him to F-off and took a shot of the bottle he had in his hand and started the next song...I don't think they were invited back.