pzannucci

Hopefully KLF-30s are broken in by now.

I love the look and always lusted after one but in a FL or TX house, tubes in that number are tough. If I lived in NY, it would be sold.

Bottom Line - Poor isolation of the turntable. Subtract the subwoofer, get a serious isolating stand, and if needed, use a subsonic filter if you want to keep the turntable close to the speakers. Problem is will you miss anything when you add the subsonic filter. When I was a kid, I had a 12x15 room with a 4 foot deep dormer. Kept the equipment in the dormer (second floor) including the turntable. Used to crank my Frazier Mark Va's to crazy levels. Never an issue tracking at light weights on cartriges like Stanton 681eee, Sure v15, and ADC cartridges.

I had a set hooked up to a Adcom 555 for a year or so. About a foot from the rear wall in an open area. No bloat in the bass though balanced. An amp with very good bass drive makes them open up. Also, it either sounds like you might have a wiring problem or the networks are balanced a little too forward. When you start changing things like the crossover, you open a can of worms and a lot more tweaking. The speaker is the sum of the parts, not the drivers. The crossover is the heart, balance, and presentation of the speaker.

No problem pricing what the market will bear. Any correction will be made on perceived value. But I would expect a finished back and a cabinet like a rock for 20k+

What no pics?

Yes you would hope to see more when you have the inductor in the path.

Exactly. I disconnected my wire to the auto-former that manages the high frequency section on my speakers (same as removing straps on others), the others and DC resistance was the same. I had to verify anyway That's why on a lot of multi-amped configurations they still say you should use a capacitor, to insure you block DC. The DC test would at least tell you if you had a serious problem like burned or shorted voice coil or something in one of the woofers. My dual Focal 13v's even with the large coil, register 3.5 ohms. That might scare someone if they actually saw that reading as to think the speaker would toast an amp.

What car or what tweeter? Some cars are multi-amped and use an electronic crossover. (or pretend to be electronic - built in).

Probably more like 25% of speakers sold through Amazon since it is so small and easy to ship.

You would hope but you would be surprised if you ran something like woofer tester against: - a raw driver - a crossover with dummy loads - the actual speaker with drivers hooked up You might only be off slightly on DC resistance and could be all over the place with AC based impedance. Unless you have a bi-wire or multi-wire with no straps, you are probably reading more the woofer path than anything. A fairly rudimentary crossover might yield better results. If you have a pre-built speaker by a good manufacturer, hopefully the crossover tolerances aren't huge though they can be.

You will have some issues because through the speaker wires, it is impedance not resistance. With caps and inductors in the mix, DC resistance is likely not going to be anything you really think it would be. Also balance issues could be through certain frequencies. It becomes much more helpful to measure the individual components and drivers. Make everything match and be done.... you wish. You hope that the drivers outputs measure the same.

Those little cubbyholes that you have the speakers in may be enough reinforcement to remove the subs if you are not lusting after deep bass.

Component matching is a big thing. Glad that cleaned up the nasties in the treble.

If you have pre-outs, I would look to cross the sub a bit lower as Chris stated. You could have a room mode or something that occurs at the overlap or the crossover overlap makes a large bump that will be hard to compensate for because when you lower it to remove the bump, everything under that bump will be too low on the sub-woofer. A good frequency sweep will help.

Clearance. I may need to grab 4 just in case.

Grizzog, yes, your real world testing with your positioning but the reason you are getting all the questions is that most folks know for that listening distance, Heresys would sound significantly more open on stands along with the ability for the tweeter and mid to be more time aligned when up on stands. If you were 20 feet away it may change things and stands might not be needed. Most folks would say the Heresys would be more open in that scenario though that really for many people may be TOO open, especially if you like the two way sound. I'm not trying to say your conclusions are wrong or your methodology for your acceptable positions are wrong, I would come to the same conclusion you did actually. Just as Teaman said, we'd like to hear your opinions on stands, just for grins (though you might not have any appropriate stands available).

Significant difference with the Heresys on shorter stands closer to the wall. The Heresys on the floor were for back when.... well I'd be dating myself. Moving the the Heresys to RF-7 mid/tweeter height will allow things to blend much better. No, wouldn't keep up with the bass but not a slouch either. Maybe even more balanced through the midbass - treble that way. Remember Heresy was designed as a middle speaker when two K-horns were far apart. That means you were quite far from the speaker so you would actually possibly be on mid/tweeter axis when you were that far back, not like 10 feet away like today's living rooms. I don't know how big your room is but I would gather it wouldn't meet that criteria. It would be interesting to do the comparison on a set of 12-18" heavy stands. The two would be much closer than you think. My opinion of course.

I guess you have not explained what you want to do here. What is this topic for? Are you going to brace your cabinets? Simple H bracing is good enough for most uses.

Are you looking to add bracing or just want to know what is internal to the speakers? If you want to know what is internal, get out your screwdrivers and wrenches

I doubt you will ever match the paint exactly. It is a specialized process for application and once dinged, should be done over. That said, you can probably get a semi-gloss or matte black (if you can't find semi-gloss) paint from Home Depot or many hardware stores and apply that with a small brush. Several coats letting each dry over just the scrape until it fills. The scrape should be pretty much hidden at that point. Don't use flat or gloss black, a semi-gloss or matte would be best to hide it..

NP. Just pointing out they are different woofers in case anyone would like to take the seller up on their offer.

This is the bottom line. Wait until all the front end equipment has been fully initialized and once booting is complete, turn on the amplifiers. The trigger may not work when one component has a slow start circuit and the other doesn't have a slow start. I had blown up an old Yamaha amplifier by turning on the crossover after the amplifier was already on. Very bad on the speakers also. The cones traveled a mile :-(

KLF-20 woofers were not the same as klf-10s. KLF-20 used 1036 not 1056.

A couple of good pages: http://www.sayedsaad.com/fundmental/16_CAPACITIVE%20REACTANCE%20.htm - capacitive reactance http://www.sayedsaad.com/fundmental/ - electronic fundimentals Almost every kid back in the 50's and 60's built their own radio. Seemed like the thing to do.