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Everything posted by JohnA

  1. You need 20 to 25 watts/channel. Maybe 50, if your room is Huuuuge. I like Yamaha, Marantz, Parasound, Integra and Acurus
  2. https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/full-range-speaker-kits/fostex-bk-16-level-stand-each/
  3. https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-S2B-A-Aluminum-1-3-8-18-TPI-Screw-On-to-2-3-Bolt-H-290-561 https://www.parts-express.com/PRV-Audio-ADM25-50-1-3-8-18-TPI-Driver-to-4-Bolt-2-Horn-Adapter-294-2941
  4. M7 is dark Mahogany. B means a "riser" between the bass horn and HF section. That is the more modern look.
  5. Speaker power ratings at a lot like auto speed ratings. Just because your car will go 300 Km/hr doesn't mean you can or should. Just because a speaker can absorb 400 watts with exploding in flames, doesn't mean you should try, or need the capability. Avoid audible distortion at all times. Turn it down. More important is the sensitivity (dB/watt) as long as you don't force too much power into a speaker rated for less (remember those flames). A 50 watt amp will happily and safely drive a speaker rated for 1000 watts, but just not as loud as it could get. However, overdriving the 50 watt amp (distortion) can cause some speaker parts to overheat and fail, commonly tweeters. Otherwise, there is no need to match any amp to any speaker beyond quality. Certainly, power ratings should not be considered when "matching". It is Quality, Quality, Quality. Buy the speakers you enjoy listening to the most. Buy enough power to get them as loud as you want in your room, without exceeding the speakers' power rating by a large margin (say no more then 2x the speaker rating).
  6. Any of the crossovers after the Type AK is a good crossover. Any xover over 30 years old would benefit from new, high quality film and foil capacitors. Don't read too much into "approved items". We've been using high quality parts and getting commensurate results for many years. Stick with xover designs made to work with your K-55-M squawker. There is a small difference in output over the older K-55-V, but enough to through off the midrange balance if you use an older A or AA (my preference) xover. There are ways to adjust an AA, but then you're into a lot of testing.
  7. Completely inaccurate. Perhaps a version of the Jubilee used a BMS driver, but the Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch and La Scala didn't/don't (save maybe the newest tweeter). The Klipschorn and La Scala do use the same squawker horn, but it is far from undersized with a 240 Hz cut-off.
  8. If a cat did that to my new Cornwalls, I'd be looking for a chemical for some aversion therapy!
  9. You really need to change the 3.3 uF tweeter cap to 2.0 (2.2 OK) to tame a response hump in the K-77s from around 6k to 9k.
  10. Better to use one autoformer and a -1 dB L-pad, or a custom built autofotmer.
  11. John Allen's driver does test better. I think it is more audioneurotica to replace good, working K-55-Vs than anything else. When yours fail, or you drop one, buy the Allens.
  12. I did not change out the BW 1504-4 woofer in my FH-1s. The system was built for random users, outdoors, at my church and wanted it to be bullet-proof. Below about 70 Hz, there is more distortion than fundamental. It's easy to hear using sine waves, less so with music, as it fits in better. For inside use a K-33 would be an excellent replacement. A K-43, or Eminence equivalent, would be a good overall choice and allow higher power levels. JBL's 2226H is the balls to the firewall choice with its 600 watt capacity, but it is an 8 Ohm driver. I crossed it to a pair of Klipsch Pro subwoofers at 70 - 100 Hz and solved the distortion problem. FH-1s will readily respond to 1200 Hz and required a 3rd order crossover to smooth the response at a 1000Hz crossover point. That made protecting my 902-8B on 511B horn easy, though. If you can't find it, I will give you my crossover design. It is, however, driver specific.
  13. $4500 for LS3/5A? Oh, Heck NO! Not even with a gold brick ballast lump in the bottom. Technology changes. New materials are developed or found. The new Heritage speakers sound better than the old ones ever did. Just flush mounting the tweeters and squawkers are an audible improvement.
  14. Well, I just LOVE mine. Klipsch gives good suggestions for placement. Put on some dub-step at moderate levels and maybe even turn up the bass knob and shut them up in a room for 3 or 4 days straight and they'll be ready to rock. Initially, they are disappointingly thin, but after the woofer breaks-in, you'll find them to be accurate and pleasant to listen to.
  15. i believe you can get proper replacement gaskets at critesspeakers.com.
  16. Did/does Klipsch make a reasonable center channel match for Heresies? Academy?
  17. That sounds like amplifier clipping. However, open the back and check/clean the connections to the crossover and drivers. If that doesn't change anything, swap speakers from one channel to the other. If that doesn't change anything, swap squawkers from one speaker to the other. If that doesn't change the sound, the problem in in the crossover.
  18. You've got my speakers. They were sold on the Nashville Craigslist and my brother picked them up for me. I bought them to be used at events at my church. That surely means "Audio Systems" was the one on 23rd Ave N in Nashville, TN.
  19. I would say there will be an upgrade kit for the IIIs before long. The changes are limited enough to be easy.
  20. Yeah. Cool. He has a point, but maybe overstated. I'm unsure of the effect all that has on tube amps, but its a lesser problem with solid state. A SS amp *simulates* a voltage source at most power levels. That is, it boosts input voltage by x and supplies whatever current the speaker *draws* at the voltage applied to it. It is a valid speaker design technique to use a lower impedance driver to make up for a little lower sensitivity. Early Cornwalls are an example; the 4 ohm woofer *draws* extra power so it can keep up with the squawker and tweeter. A practical speaker design has limits on this trick and I'd say Heresy 1s push that limit with about 128 ohms in the midrange. In its case the higher impedance in the midrange *draws* (impedes current flow) less current (and power) so the 107 dB squawker is not too loud.
  21. JohnA


    It won't hurt. It might help. Unless you like AC/DC at full concert volume, it isn't necessary. I wouldn't bother, I would live with the Yamaha, or upgrade to a better unit ($$$$). Generally, you'll get the best sound and greater flexibility with all separates. You need to double your power rating to hear a small, noticeable difference in volume; 200 wpc. Ten times the power will be a big, obvious difference in volume; 1000 wpc. Better quality amps usually have higher damping factors and that extra control of the woofer will be noticeable. Other details and delicacies in the music are a function of the amp's build quality and design and a much harder thing to quantify. Again, $$$$.
  22. Watco Danish Oil will give a nice color and light protection. Follow that with a coat of Boiled Linseed oil in a few days. After 3 or 4 days rub that lightly with fine steel wool for a satin finish.
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