JohnA

Important? Sure, it's a boundary layer that reflects bass energy, but a few inches are irrelevant. The Klipschorn's bass horn works a little differently, the walls and floor are an imperfect part of the horn. The mass of the Klipsch "Big 3" negates the need for spikes and heavy stands. The moving mass of the woofer is so small in relation to the speaker, it will not cause cabinet movement. The old Rat Shack Mach 1 was a perfect example of light cabinet/heavy woofer needing an anchor.

I don't like the look of casters. However, the wavelength of bass notes, compared to 3" or 4" a set of casters will raise the bass horn make it a "no never mind". Install your casters, if you want, without fear.

We are the last people that would want wireless speakers. Still, there are kits out there. https://www.amazon.com/DYNASTY-PROAUDIO-Amplifier-Selectable-Switching/dp/B08J8CJJTR/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wireless%2Bspeaker%2Bconversion%2Bkit&qid=1685568626&sr=8-5&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0&th=1 https://thehometheaterdiy.com/make-regular-speakers-wireless/

You need at least 1 watt/channel. Really. Any of them are rated to absorb 100 watts. In the later of the original Heresies, they will probably suffer woofer damage before the tweeter and squawker are hurt. Fear not. Having run mine with 25 to 140 watt amps, a good 25 to 40 watt amp is plenty.

Never. That is the antithesis of everything I want from my audio system. If the recording sucks, play another one. Get the DVD-A version of it.

Still not as big as mine, Marvel.

DO NOT use a 9V battery to test a tweeter. And when testing a tweeter, keep one lead moving so it never sees DC, but gets a series of pulses that cause a scratching sound. Use only a 1.5V battery on tweeters and then, it's best only to test it in lieu of an ohm meter. 1.5V is also plenty to verify the polarity of a woofer. 9 volts across a tweeter is 10 watts, if the battery can supply the current. Many tweeters cannot tolerate 10 watts.

If you have nothing to complain about, you have nothing to do. With such new speakers, there is likely no objective improvement possible. Were they 40 years old, .... we could talk.

I have several K-77s, $75 + shipping from 37343. Assume 4 lbs and a 6" cube for each. I have 2 K-55-Vs, $100 each + shipping. One is a spring terminal and the other is a solder terminal, but it has a rub/ring after having the diaphragm replaced. Assume 6 lbs and an 8" cube for each. These were my back-ups that I'm sure I'll never need, now.

Location? Which tri-state?

I think so. Which crossover do the 1.5s have? That will help determine whether the K-52 has as much output as a K-55-V.

As in the old Type A Klipsch crossover, a 9 kHz theoretical crossover point is needed to protect the tweeter from low frequencies. Don't change it. What is the DCR of the tweeter? What happens if you use a 1.5V battery across its leads, rubbing one lead? Is its output similar to the woofer tested the same way?

My VMPS subwoofers are tightly stuffed with fiberglass that looks like insulation grade fiberglass. It's yellow. https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/avid-thread.116894/ The OEM tweeter description sounds like the tweeter in Marantz Imperial 7s among others. Not sure how to id the OEM CTS woofer, unless Eminence has old CTS data.

The woofer is modelled (or trial and error tested in the old days) for its frequency response with a certain amount of damping material. The material makes the box volume behave as though it is different because it changes its "springiness". As though it is larger, I believe.

Why would you even consider changing the damping material or amount? Fiberglas does not deteriorate. I recommend you replace the original material the factory determined to be correct. Your range of 50% is no guidance at all.

K-77-Ms tend to have more output at the highest frequencies. Some say the K-77s have more detail because of the AlNiCo magnets. I would use the K-77-Ms with Z-brackets unless you are putting them in a sealed or ported cabinet like Heresy or Cornwall.

LOL! Most of that stuff fits in one box, now. But, now I see why they call them shacks. And the retailer's name......

Beautiful job on your SKs! And, ... Great news about Gil! I hear from him periodically, randomly. I'm glad to get the new phone. I'll call. He had asked me to call, but I could not get an updated number when one of the old ones quit working.

You are reading through the crossover, so the capacitors make it read open. You'll have to disconnect each driver from the crossover to measure it. To measure impedance, you'll need a meter that can test at different AC frequencies. Mine will, but at only 400 Hz, below the HF crossover point.

Cool! I only have an HT, for now, and am finding more local repeater all the time. We have over 30 repeaters in the area. With so many, few are active. The 8 or 10 GMRS repeaters are much more active. I've already figured out an HF antenna will not work on my tiny lot, plus, no one else in the subdivision has an external antenna. I have a CB antenna with sloping radials in the attic that works great. The GRMS antenna up there, not so much. I'm looking at a 6m/2m/70cm Comet, but it is over 8' tall plus tower. Any suggestions are welcome. The primary objective for 6m will be talking to the Nashville area.

Don't feel awkward, many of us have gone through cancer. I am a 2 time survivor. One was prostate cancer, surgery 8 years ago this month; the year I turned 57. I will pray for you, brother.

Don't be afraid, start with a PSA test. If you have a family history of prostate or breast cancer get at least annual PSAs. The same gene mutation that "causes" breast cancer "causes" prostate cancer

THAT shows your age. And I remember Muntz, sorta like another audio known for similar quality.

How many Hams do we have on the forum?? I just got my Technician and I know of one other. KQ4HXX