JohnA

Dang! I really hate that I picked this week to go off and work! Thanks for posting, Michael!!

You misunderstand. What you linked is what I already know. That's basic circuits. What I want to know is why an engineer would parallel inductors, rather than build/buy one with the correct values.

I know what happens when inductors are paralleled, but why would you ever do that? Same for series? This is asked in the realm of relatively low power electronic circuits in radio transmitters/receivers, like 20 to 1000 watts. But it could apply to crossovers.

Salve, Frakka! I will recommend a good film and foil capacitor. Solen in France seems to make 2 lines of film and foil capacitors. You should be able to get them easily. I normally do not care for the sound of metalized film capacitors, they sound brittle, or have a metallic edge to their sound, but they are inexpensive. Film and foil capacitors have become more expensive over the last 5, or so, years, but they are worth the cost. Your dust looks just like my dust!! 😆

I don't hear it. Perhaps a room issue?

I do it in my music room. You'll want a preamp. Adjusting volume and tone with a laptop is slow and frustrating. I feed a Mackie 402 mixer from my laptop with 1/8" headphone to phono cables. The Mackie feeds various mics and the laptop to my Yamaha receiver. It drives KG2s or Heresy IVs and sometimes a subwoofer. My audio path is all analog; the D/A voodoo is all in the laptop. The sound quality from CDs is very good. Try it, I think you'll be pleased. Some of you would be appalled at the gear The Chief uses to demo speakers in the lab, including Jubilees.

Fresh tweeters! Get 'em while they're hot!

Look at the rear labels for all of the pieces and add up the max VA or max watts. Watts = Volts x Amps. So, your xfmr's 600 VA rating is essentially 600 watts (OK, not quite because the voltage sine wave is/can be out of sync with the current wave.) Leave some room for start up in-rush current and turn on one thing at a time. I think you'll be close to max capacity. FYI, fuses will pass 2x their rating for a short time before opening and maybe oversized. They are primarily for fire protection, thus not a good measure of load or capacity.

If you can use balanced cables, why not go buy a pair of XLR mic cables and connect the pre to the power amps properly. Two cables running around the wall for 2 weeks can't be that bad. However, if you use the in-wall speaker wires, use both positive and negative for each power amp and don't use one for a common ground. Don't kludge it up worse with wyes.

Half of original sale price. It is a complete home theater system and these might still be sold on Klipsch.com

I do think 2.1mm (12 American Wire Gauge) wire will be enough. What amps and preamp are you using? Some people once thought long, especially balanced (3 wire microphone cables) and short speaker wires were the ultimate. Can you put your power amps on or behind your La Scala's and run long cables to them? I use 3 pair twisted, then braided CAT 5e cables for speaker wire. They amount to about 2.3mm (10.5 AWG) wire. The insulation and all that braiding results in a low resistance, capacitance and inductance speaker cable. They are about 5 meters long. I could not hear a difference between old 12 AWG Monster cable and my homemade wires. But they look good! I also failed a double-blind test at Klipsch HQ in Indy with similar cables many years ago. Klipsch said their braided CAT 5 was -3 dB at 300 kHz! My bottom line is that when the resistance is low enough and inductance and capacitance are not significant, you have a good speaker cable. Buy a large diameter stranded wire and don't worry.

LOL! I'm sorry I missed Sey's last post. The 4uF cap is correct since the Model H has a K-1000 squawker horn and needs a higher crossover point. I have one of those around somewhere.

I think they are a flawed design, because the size of the baffle limits the largest wavelength they can reproduce. Then, you get into the Blose reflected sound "stuff", stealing focus. Maggie's have a certain sound about them, but bass isn't it. Better to use the rear wave/pressure to augment low bass output.

Looks like 1980 HBRs, with original boxes. https://www.estatesales.net/NC/Brevard/28712/3948795

Those are pre-1979 Belle Klipsch components. Very sad the cabinets are not there.

You are better off with an unmolested pair. If you know what you're doing, some upgrades are good and effective. If you upgrade because you read it on the internet, of because a website sell it, you've probably made a mistake.

New updates on Page 6!

Sad that B&K is gone. I like to use Reverb for pricing.

Here do you live? Listen to lots of speakers. I like my H IVs and will recommend them. You should find my comments after getting them on the Forums. Of note, the music seems to come out of the face of the H IVs complete and as though it comes from a single point. Be sure the listen to the Forte IVs, too. Before you buy you'll want to talk to Paducah Home Theater.

I have 2. Both are spring terminal versions. One has a new diaphragm, but still has a rub. The tech didn't do it well. The other is fine.

Spotted this PM, at the bowling alley in Hixson.

EVERY good amplifier will mate to your Cornwall IVs. While you have more power than you need, it should sound just fine.

On my guitar tuner, 30 Hz is a B0 (30.87} tuned 49 cents (a lot) flat. 29 Hz is Bb0 (29.14) tuned 8 cents flat. 8 cents is inaudible. 49 cents might sound a little "off" to some, but I don't hear it. There is 100 cents between notes. B0 is the open low string on a 5-string bass.

Still looking to sell a bunch of woofers and compression drivers. It appears we have one EV 15WK woofers. They'd be quite a prize for a Khorn, especially an older one.

The one in Hope is on the wall left of the chamber. 😃