JohnA

Gil and I exchanged e-mails, yesterday. He said to say "Hello!" to all of you. He is in a new facility in Chicago and finally getting PT. He is able to do some walking with a walker and is getting more use out of his left hand. He says it is slow progress, but I think it's grand! His old phone quit working and BIL Joe has shipped him a new one, due this week. Maybe he is a little harder on phones than some of us. 😉 I was getting concerned since he had been unreachable, but I think, now, that he's OK and getting what he needs.

The K-700 makes for a nice sized lamp, nearly the same height as the ginger jar lamp that donated it's organs. It is now on my nightstand and the extra area of the base is usable for some of the stuff I usually keep there. A K-400, ..... hmmm?

there is no difference in the performance due to the lead attachment method. But, but sure to use a good film and foil cap and avoid electrolytics in speakers.

Not so much. Springsteen is sad and depressing. You know, it could have been an old Brubeck or Monk record.

I would look at improving your room acoustics first (damp reflections and reverberation, the surrounds provide the intended reverberation). Then, look at upgrading your receiver. The RP-8000 speakers, at 98 dB/w/m will not challenge the power section of your Denon, so more power will only be noticed at very high SPLs. The preamp and processor sections of your receiver make a large contribution to sound quality and clarity, more than the power amp, in my experience. Adding a power amp to a receiver has become a fad, but I can't imagine why. Seems like racing tires on a tired Yugo to me.

Thank You! It's a geeky sort of labor of love.

I just tested a mounted K-700. When struck there is a short duration "ting". The K-700 is much shorter and has smaller wall surfaces than a K-400, making is naturally stiffer and less prone to ring.

At 21 years old, you probably do not need new/refurbished crossovers (maybe not even at 41 years, in my experience). The sketchiest part is the replacement diaphragm and the skill needed to swap it out. I've got a squawker that had an open voice coil and I paid a well regarded shop in Nashville (they had some of Charlie Daniels' amps in for repairs) to replace the diaphragm and it buzzes on piano after. It was bought for backup, so I haven't tried to fix it again. The work looks deceptively easy. Your speakers only need regular use.

You should use the center speaker designed to match your front pair. If your fronts are H IVs, use a 3rd for the center. If the RC-64 III matches your front mains, get a sound meter and calibrate your system. Sometimes movies are mixed so that dialog is not clearly audible. That doesn't happen regularly in my system, but it does. It must be a "style" for film makers.

I didn't know you sold your MWMs! What I'd do is 2 MWMs and 2 La Scalas per side and cross the MWMs as high as practical. I would think that would be easier to find than a whole MCM 1900 rig. Maybe you could rent 2 KPT-1802 and some KPT-396s from Klipsch. I'll bet I can find a copilot or 2nd tow vehicle.

On the floor and close to one, or more walls. Distance to taste. Most Heresies before the IV are a touch bright. I think they need a subwoofer because the response below 70 Hz is weak. I had 7 at one time. Four helped me buy H IVs.

I would like to have an update, too. I've tried to call him and can't get through.

Inspired by dtr20, I made a K700 lamp, of my own. I used a die-cast K700 I'd bought for a stillborn monitor project. I had a friend turn a pair of adapters for the horn's throat and then cannibalized an old lamp a GF gave me 40 years ago. The base is mahogany, bought in Chattanooga, planed in Huber Heights and finished with linseed oil at mi casa. I could not see the figure in the grain until after it was planed and had to work a little to show it in the finished lamp. The plaque was a gift from Hunter @JRH at the first pilgrimage, called "The Klipsch Fans Tour Of Hope". I kept it in my Klipsch file folder for over 20 years until i found this use for it! I hope Mr. Paul's soul gets a smile.

My kinda music!

The years of research have resulted in better sounding gear available now, if you choose well. I would buy newer, if not brand new components. I have always been a fan of separates over receivers, even though I have a few receivers, now.

Yes, you did. Bummer. But the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the K-77-M diaphragm with a higher power rating. It has ribbon leads.

I used a rolled up towel to plug the port of my Marantz Imperial 7s. Then, if placed in a corner the bass was deeper and noticably so, but still balanced. I used them that way for several years in the Dorm.

Nice1 But you gotta work on your room, or turn the subwoofer down, or both.

DIY. https://www.woofertester.com/wt2product.htm https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DATS-V3-Computer-Based-Audio-Component-Test-System-390-807

K-77-Ms don't need the diaphragms replaced. They came with the ribbon lead diaphragm that carries the higher rating. Perhaps they were not -Fs, but the K-77-? I saw in the Lab would have fit my '81 LS. The flange perhaps pushed the mounting screws wider, but wasn't definite.

No. However, a good 2-channel amp/receiver will have a power supply with much greater reserve power capacity than your AVR. The old Tanks of the 70's had to meet the FTC power rating procedure so the bits and parts were sized to handle more heat and the the PS was robust. The old amps mostly had low Damping Factors and tended to sound soft similar to a tube amp. I like the sound of modern amps with large DF better (crisper and with tighter bass). To get both I went with all separates. My power amps take a long time to go quiet when the power is turned off, demonstrating the depth of the energy reserves. All that comes at a price, though.

No. But it should be no worse than motor oil. You wouldn't lick that off your fingers.

Not true. PCB is used in high voltage xfmrs and the like to retard fire and heat breakdown; it is nearly inert and almost will not breakdown. It is difficult to get it to burn in a coal-fired furnace at 3000F. It was not used in the motor caps Klipsch put in the Type AA. I doubt the older boxy caps used in the Type A had it either. It's pretty expensive stuff. https://www.tedss.com/2020005873 But a leak means replacement is needed. The oil conducts heat and improves the insulation of the dielectric.

Not all of the old xovers I've had needed to be recapped. I'm sure the AAs do sound better than the As. The tweeter section adds needed EQ and attenuation to the K-77. In a home setting, the -M tweeter should not need the zener diodes. If you still have original K-77 tweeters, I'd reconnect them until you can install the -Ms ribbon lead diaphragms. The K-77 is rated at 2 watts continuous/20 watts peak. The -M is rated at 5 continuous/50 peak. Change the diaphragm and you'll get the higher rating. Better yet, Try to find a pair of K-77-Fs(?) that flush mount the tweeter mouth to the front of the cabinet. or send me a PM.

I use Audacious and an OLD version of RealPlayer. Ver 10, I think. No ads.