JohnA

If you can use balanced cables, why not go buy a pair of XLR mic cables and connect the pre to the power amps properly. Two cables running around the wall for 2 weeks can't be that bad. However, if you use the in-wall speaker wires, use both positive and negative for each power amp and don't use one for a common ground. Don't kludge it up worse with wyes.

Half of original sale price. It is a complete home theater system and these might still be sold on Klipsch.com

I do think 2.1mm (12 American Wire Gauge) wire will be enough. What amps and preamp are you using? Some people once thought long, especially balanced (3 wire microphone cables) and short speaker wires were the ultimate. Can you put your power amps on or behind your La Scala's and run long cables to them? I use 3 pair twisted, then braided CAT 5e cables for speaker wire. They amount to about 2.3mm (10.5 AWG) wire. The insulation and all that braiding results in a low resistance, capacitance and inductance speaker cable. They are about 5 meters long. I could not hear a difference between old 12 AWG Monster cable and my homemade wires. But they look good! I also failed a double-blind test at Klipsch HQ in Indy with similar cables many years ago. Klipsch said their braided CAT 5 was -3 dB at 300 kHz! My bottom line is that when the resistance is low enough and inductance and capacitance are not significant, you have a good speaker cable. Buy a large diameter stranded wire and don't worry.

LOL! I'm sorry I missed Sey's last post. The 4uF cap is correct since the Model H has a K-1000 squawker horn and needs a higher crossover point. I have one of those around somewhere.

I think they are a flawed design, because the size of the baffle limits the largest wavelength they can reproduce. Then, you get into the Blose reflected sound "stuff", stealing focus. Maggie's have a certain sound about them, but bass isn't it. Better to use the rear wave/pressure to augment low bass output.

Looks like 1980 HBRs, with original boxes. https://www.estatesales.net/NC/Brevard/28712/3948795

Those are pre-1979 Belle Klipsch components. Very sad the cabinets are not there.

You are better off with an unmolested pair. If you know what you're doing, some upgrades are good and effective. If you upgrade because you read it on the internet, of because a website sell it, you've probably made a mistake.

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Sad that B&K is gone. I like to use Reverb for pricing.

Here do you live? Listen to lots of speakers. I like my H IVs and will recommend them. You should find my comments after getting them on the Forums. Of note, the music seems to come out of the face of the H IVs complete and as though it comes from a single point. Be sure the listen to the Forte IVs, too. Before you buy you'll want to talk to Paducah Home Theater.

I have 2. Both are spring terminal versions. One has a new diaphragm, but still has a rub. The tech didn't do it well. The other is fine.

Spotted this PM, at the bowling alley in Hixson.

EVERY good amplifier will mate to your Cornwall IVs. While you have more power than you need, it should sound just fine.

On my guitar tuner, 30 Hz is a B0 (30.87} tuned 49 cents (a lot) flat. 29 Hz is Bb0 (29.14) tuned 8 cents flat. 8 cents is inaudible. 49 cents might sound a little "off" to some, but I don't hear it. There is 100 cents between notes. B0 is the open low string on a 5-string bass.

Still looking to sell a bunch of woofers and compression drivers. It appears we have one EV 15WK woofers. They'd be quite a prize for a Khorn, especially an older one.

The one in Hope is on the wall left of the chamber. 😃

Cory Believes. And he will treat you well.

We have/had a small speaker manufacturer in Chattanooga, Digital Phase. After I adjusted one of my HIs to run the squawker and tweeter 3 dB lower, I took it and another one to their lab and they curved both. Both had K-55-Vs and K-77-Ms. The adjusted one is my center channel and the other one is a rear. Their curves are virtually on top of each other, even though the adjusted one (nearly a Type HIE) sounds obviously different than it did. In some areas it is a dB or 2 quieter, but never -3. I was very surprised at the apparent variation in driver output. We have all heard that Klipsch hand selected drivers for some speakers, surely for Klipschorns. Perhaps this is why. If I can find the graphs, I'll amend this post.

Insulation in the walls will help a little, not sure how much. Use blackout curtains over the glass. Use twice as many as needed for the distance so they will have plenty of extra folds. https://www.wayfair.com/decor-pillows/pdp/latitude-run-100-blackout-curtains-textured-max-blackout-drapes-thermal-insulation-reduce-noise-for-living-w010990306.html?piid=235801659%2C242311998 Plan on soft floor coverings to reduce floor reflections. After that, see what the room needs to manage distracting reflections once it is finished. I would not build bass traps or absorptive panels until you see what the room needs.

I had a KA-7100 in college, driving a pair of Marantz Imperial 7s. I had a Kenwood tuner and used a crusty Thorens TD-124 that I still have. 😁

Update. I/we have commitments and payment for the odd Belle and Quartets. Still lots of stuff left and we'll update the inventory soon. I'm working on getting more info on what looks like wooden squawker horns and La Scala bass horns.

That is called a Type HIE, sorta. The Type HIE was used in pro Heresies. The woofer was different, and the squawker and tweeter were run at 104/105 dB like a Type AA and with the same filters. The woofer crossover point was changed to account for the K-700 horn. The woofer was capable of 100+ dB, so they were bright, but worked very well outdoors. I modified my center channel Heresy to be as much like a Type AA as possible, but keep the squawker and tweeter levels down to match the woofer. It does work and improves the timbre match of the center to the La Scala mains. However, there is no reason to build such a crossover except to match a similar KH/B/LS.

The squawker horn was wrapped to damp small resonances. If the material is not elastic and stuck securely to the horn it won't do any damping. Its presence causes no harm, though. An elastic material in close contact with the metal converts the vibration to heat and absorbs it. I will add that I applied rope caulk to the outside on my Heresy squawker horns and don't remember hearing any difference. Those K-700s are so short, they are quite stiff and would probably vibrate well above the operating band of the squawker and probably at quite low amplitude. I have never used Jantzen caps, but prefer film and foil caps over metallized. I have had some old Klipsch that needed new capacitors (causing dull, recessed sound) and one that didn't. This has lead me to postulate, without further data, that speakers that are played extensively tend not to degrade as fast as ones that are not. We have one member that has found loose or shifted cores in the inductors and/or the autoformers, but I have not. That would be a good reason to replace them. Some data to explain why crossovers might be rebuilt after several decades. Since the design was not changed in a meaningful way, I would not call yours upgraded. I would expect they will sound quite good, so enjoy! I would space them about half as far apart as you sit from them and near a wall, on the floor. Don't be afraid to add a few dB below 50 Hz, they will tolerate that within reason. I will also recommend you find some angled stands. I bought these from Madisound, they're for a Fostex BK-16 kit, but you may have to build them yourself, now.

Hey Cal, I know where you can get a pair of Quartets. $500! You just have to go to Yankeeville to get them! 🤣