babadono

I will say it again like I have in other threads. The only thing that matters in unbalanced inter connects is the resistance of the shield. The lower the resistance the better. Now in speaker wire the only thing that matters is it of sufficient gauge to carry the current you are trying to deliver to your speaker. babadono

Canada,eh and hockey,eh. Who'da thunk it. But seriously, AWESOME set up. Got any Molson's Canadian or Brador? Enjoy

Colin, That is not a port in the rear. It is the opening of the bass horn. It fires into the corner and makes the entire corner the mouth of a much larger horn, using math and physics and acoustic properties I only barely understand. PWK was a genius. I think you need to, if you have not already, see a cutaway view of what's inside the KHorn bass horn. babadono

Colin, You said in an earlier post you pulled the woofer doors off to check the woofers. Did you reseal the doors? I'm no expert on this but other guys on this forum are. I 'm pretty sure that seal needs to be good and air tight. I've had KHorns for 25+ years in three different homes. Your room is not too small. You should be delighted once you get them dialed in. Quiet Hollow-- good idea about the large/small speaker settings. babadono

My 2 cents, How cheap is cheap? Just go straight to a wooden tractix horn. See member 'gothover' for a drop in replacement. No affliation yada,yada,yada

KT66 et al, I have now installed BMS 4592 mid on my eliptracs, I have not had much time to listen yet (you know life and all that stuff) but they do sound sweet. I have them dialed back 13.7 dB (thanks ALK for that versatile 3619 autoformer) to strike some balance, they are so effecient. I have a question for Jordan and Dean. What frequency are you crossing from the Jub bass to the TAD 4001? It was my understanding (perhaps mistaken) that the Jub bass could go higher than the KHorn bass bin. But babadono

KT66, You will love the eliptracs IMHO. But you will start wondering should I get a 2" inch driver? Hmmm...... Can it really sound a whole lot better? Hmmmm...... babadono

I am seeing your posts[]

FYI -- Al's pricier tweeter attenuator is autoformer based. Works marvelously IMHO. but babadono

Hi all, Anybody running a inexpensive sub (RW-12D Newegg special for instance) with Lascalas for a little more umph down low. If so do you have 1 for each side left and right or just 1 summed mono? babadono

OVER THE TOP LMFAO too

Mike, FYI - Those attenuators are for unbalanced lines/inputs. Of course you already knew that[] babadono

This reminds me of the Supreme Court justice (don't remember which one) that said and I am paraphrasing "I can't define pornography but I know it when I see it." As in "I can't define(or measure) good sound but I know it when I hear it." [:^)] babadono

Dean, I have a perspiring mind[] But seriously I have seen ALK's jub schematic and pictures of Rigma's and it looks to me like night and day differences. I was/am just curious what those differences are. It's not a need, it's a want. babadono

I beleive it has been published/posted on here already. Bruce Bruce, Where? Can you point me in the proper direction? I've been searching with no luck. And as a side issue--- If someone bought a pair of Jubs with the intent of going 2 way passive surely then he could get a schematic of the crossover he needs? No? babadono

Is a schematic of the crossover that Roy designed for Rigma available? Or is it proprietary or something? I've been searching with no luck. babadono

I don't know nuttin...... but.... Isn't it possible that when the speakers came out of the factory they sounded like 'x'. Now over the years because of capacitor degradation they sound like 'y'. But a person has gotten used to it because that is what the human brain does. Now with the crossover brought back up to spec. the speakers sound like 'x' again. And this is abrupt, not over 20+ years so it sounds different. just my 2 cents cuz babadono

Ok so I was way off base (about the Murphy's), I stand corrected by others who know way more than I. babadono

christ1, You SHOULD not have problem taking your preouts and running them into the amp-in (or any line level input) of another amp or receiver. The speaker switch would be a nice addition so you wouldn't have to change the speaker wires every time but is not absolutely necessary. Just make sure you never have both amps hooked up to the speakers at the same time even if one of the amps is off. If you are taking the preout and going into a regular line input (not amp-in) you will now have two seperate volume contols and it may take a little getting used to ( it will be easy to overdrive the amp into clipping). babadono

Yes thank God PWK was so interested in music and the faithful reproduction thereof!

Ok now I see it. It is pulled out about a foot and facing the same wall that the KPT-100 is mounted on. Correct? Man you must be flexing and shaking those window panes[] babadono

Carl, Awesome work, sorry I am so late at seeing this thread about your build. Let me show my ignorance here, where is the mouth of the horn pointed? I don't see it in the picture. babadono

PM'd babadono

Maybe I am way off base but how's about Murphy's Oil Soap? Supposedly its for wood. I am talking just for the cleaning not re oiling. babadono

Buddy, Have you tried a lemon oil furniture polish? Or a Watco Danish oil? That is the nice thing about oil finishes-- a little more oil will not hurt it. In fact my oil finished KHorns and Lascalas (as well as other oil finished furniture) demand it. babadono