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What crossover is installed? This will make it easier to describe the impact. Mike

The .66 mH inductor and 6.8 ohm resistor represent the impedance of the woofer at the crossover point (650 Hz???). You don't need to include these in your crossover. Mike

The one drawback to these amps is the light weight. I put my Squeezebox Touch on top; otherwise, the cables will tilt the amp backwards.

How quiet is it with the laptop power supply? I ask because I have a few extra 19V supplies and I want to add a few extra zones. This looks to be a really good solution. WIthout checking I think that the power supplies should have enough amps (they are 65w so I guess about 5.4 amps). Actually, the one I'm using is $7.79 plus free shipping... http://www.ebay.com/itm/261548706119?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT It's rated at 3.42 amps, which has been plenty for me. No hiss on my Heresy's. Some swear by linear power supplies, but I'm happy with the brick. I did add a 2200uF cap across the DC input just to have a little more in reserve. Mike

It's actually a very nice Class D amp. I bought one similar to this... http://www.ebay.com/itm/50Wx2-Official-version-Finished-TPA3116D2-Class-T-Digital-Power-Amplifier-Board-/311131698963?pt=US_Amplifier_Parts_Components&hash=item4870e4f713 and stuffed it into a cheap Radio Shack plastic project box. Powered by a $15 19V laptop power supply, it's amazing. The finished one you see has two of these chips, one of which is bridged mono. Listening to mine right now through Heresy's I'm upgrading. MIke

The Crites A/4500 crossover with the CT-125 was my first upgrade (1985 K-horns with AK-2 crossovers). Although I thought it was an improvement, I often wonder if swapping in the CT-125 alone would have been almost as good. I'm sure you did your research, but just a reminder. Removing/bypassing the AK-2 crossover is a little tricky. Once done, you are free to try any number of crossover/horn swaps. Good luck. Mike

I'll take a shot The autoformer input is usually 0 - 5. This would equate to C - -0 on this one. With this one, one can move the non-common input to decrease the attenuation by 1 or 2 dB. I assume both connections on the output side of the autoformer are moveable, to adjust the mid attenuation to taste. That looks like a plastic spool for the inductor, or just a plastic cap to hold it down with a brass screw. A steel screw would disrupt the magnetic field inside the coil. The tweeter is probably needs no attenuation, therefore no need for l-pad resistors. But hey...I'm still learning! Mike

I had the alligator clips on my DMM the first time I measured the DCR. When I removed the clips and measured with the "needles", the DCR on the woofers measured around 6.9 and 7.0 ohms. The clips must add some resistance. I hate that! Sounds like the K-22-R specs are similar to the K-22-K. Thanks Mustang guy! Mike

After reading the manual for your AVR, you have it set up correctly, although I'm pretty sure both the high and low signals to each speaker are identical. Yes...this is bi-amping, as your are powering each speaker with two separate amplifiers. The advantage, if any, would be that the low amplifier/passive crossover circuit is completely separate from the high amplifier/passive crossover circuit. Granted, this is passive bi-amping, as opposed to active bi-amping. I would not call this bi-wiring. As far as improvement, trust your ears.

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking about building my own crossovers, so the K-22-R impedance is important. As I understand it, the 33uf cap was necessary due to a squawker change (K-55-M to K-52-H?). I assume that they wanted to use up the "E" labels before going to the "E2" labels, hence the stamped "2". I remeasured the K-22-R DCR...7.9 ohms. Seems to be an 11 ohm driver to me. Mike

Sorry for the late pics. I assumed this was a Rola woofer, but could not find specs. The woofer inductor stamps appear to be 23-L. 2.3 mH??? You can see the stamped 2 next to the red E on the crossover. The picture on the right has the knot in the squawker wire. Even with the woofer wires disconnected, it's a rats nest compared to the speaker with the crossover mounted on the left.

They are now mine. No tags on back, but stamped serial numbers 142X720 and 142X721. 1982's I believe. Walnut The crossovers are E2's, but the number 2 is stamped next to the red E. K-77-M K-52-H K-22-R What I find odd is that the crossover on 720 is mounted on the right side of the cabinet (looking from the back). The crossover on 721 is mounted on the left side. Is this unusual? Because of this, the wires from the crossover to the drivers on the 720 speaker crisscross each other. Worse yet, the wire from the crossover to the K-52-H had a loose square knot, which I would think would add inductance (?). Two other questions. I can't read the value stamped on the woofer inductor. Can someone enlighten me? Also, is the K-22-R a 10 ohm driver? I measure around 7.5 ohm DCR. Thanks Mike

A Linkwitz-Riley filter is designed to create a -6 db dip at a desired frequency. When the high and low pass signals cross, the voltages will sum, giving you a flat "curve". The 24 dB slope will better protect the mid driver from lower frequencies (a driver killer). Klipsch crossovers are Butterworth filters, and create a -3 dB dip at the desired frequency. When combined, you will get a +3 dB bump. Try them both. That's the beauty of the active crossover...no parts change.

Sorry for your loss. Looks like everything is there. It was hooked up differently than normal for bi-amping (the positive wire from the mid/high amp is usually connected AFTER the high pass capacitors, but I can't see the whole setup clearly. I may have stored the original install instructions for the ALK Universal on my home computer. If so, I can forward them to you, so that you can wire the Khorns totally passive, and your buyer will have instructions on how to bi-wire, bi-amp, and attenuate the mid driver. Let me know. Mike

I have the BMS drivers in my Khorns, but cannot compare them to anything else. Curious... Are the recommended crossover points for all drivers based on 2nd order Butterworth? If you used 4th order LR, can/should you cross lower? I bought the BMS's 'cause they can be crossed @ 300Hz. IMHO, the more music from the mid driver, the better. My apology to the OP if this is beyond the scope of your thread. Mike

Although Al no longer publishes his schematics, you can still find the Universal schematic on his website. Click on Loudspeaker upgrades Crossovers/Overview What's wrong with the stock Klipsch networks anyhow? Here's what! The schematic is at the bottom of the page. Mike

Sorry...didn't realize you were referring to the coax model. Since both the mid and tweeter drivers are rated at 112 to 118 dB, you will need to pad the tweeter by the same amount as the mid to match the bass bin. If you were to bi-amp, and build a 2nd order 6k crossover from the mid to the high, you could attenuate the entire 400 Hz + signal to the crossover by 12 dB, and drive the bass at max volume. That's pretty much what I'm doing, using Decware SET amps. I'm using the 4592nd-mid with a separate tweeter. Mike

Are you referring to the BMS 4552 compression tweeter (113 dB at 1 watt)?

Oh...please be careful with the low freq test. If there is no band pass, you will be stressing the mid driver.

Ah...didn't know about the passive. Are you sure it has a band pass to the Mid? Hopefully you hear nothing if you disconnect the bass and pass a 100Hz tone to the mid/high. Sorry for the questions. If there is a band pass, the bass passive will need to complement it. Sounds like a fun project . Mike

Just to clarify... Looks like you are using a stock Klipsch 2nd order low pass to the bass. Are you sending all frequencies to the mids and highs?

tromprof If you switch from the 16 ohm to the 8 ohm version, I believe you will get a 3dB increase in volume. I found that attenuating the D220TI was necessary, as it delivers 109dB at 2.83 volts. You may or may not like the increase in volume. Mike

I cut the wires near the K-33's, and used female connectors to the other two tabs. I made a replacement for the stock AK-2 bass terminal plate, that uses the original screw holes. This way I could use a passive or active crossover to the bass.

John... As a newbie, I'm curious if the phase changes are related to the autoformer, or to the increasing load on the capacitor created by the tap changes. At -12dB, the load would be 160 ohms, vs the 20 ohm load using the -3dB tap. The -12dB tap would alter the frequency rolloff to around 75hz (?). I only ask this because to OP referred to Al's universal network, which would include a swamping resistor to create a consistent load regardless of the tap setting. Thanks, Mike

not sure... Here is the link http://www.klipschupgrades.com/adapters.shtml