EpicKlipschFan

i have this same sub with the common blowing fuse issue, this is the best option to repair or replace the original amp. the entire plate is very close in size to the original plate & will bolt in with just a little trimming of the cabinet opening but will lose the digital control. https://www.parts-express.com/bash-300s-digital-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-300w-rms--300-750 but, the other option to retain the digital controls on the sub is to swap out the power supply board which is what goes bad on the original amps 9 times out of 10. the issue is usually related to the glue klipsch & so many other brands used back when these were made, it goes bad over time & becomes conductive causing all kinds of issues. just unbolt the power supply section & swap on to the klipsch board, its a direct fit too. there are a few different places on ebay that repair these amps, just type in klipsch sub amp repair... one guy is about $130 & you pay to ship to him & he covers return in the price.

thats definitely an 80uf cap, maybe the schematic is wrong, or the crappy printing that looks like a 5 is really an 8. anyone else with quartets able to look at yours to verify? i agree a couple numbers wont be a big deal but some would say otherwise. also, maybe the caps have changed over the years & originally were closer to or at spec. the benefit to changing old caps is they are usually replaced with better quality caps than the cheap ones klipsch used. so even if they are within spec, some like to "upgrade" to better caps... even entry level poly caps like daytons are better than the mylar(?) stock klipsch caps. & another FYI: according to Bob Crites, the resistors do not have any affect the sound, so changing them may not do anything, at least not at this level. high dollar x-over builds are a different story & may benefit from better resistors. i would stick to the factory specs if you can get the right values, no reason to change them based on readings from 25+ year old caps.

its personal preference really as to which is better, some like a 3 way & "hot" mids, some like a more toned down 2 way. i know lots of the bigger 3 way klipsch can be very unbalanced with overpowering mids & people do all kinds of "upgrades" & mods to adress that issue. & dont forget, some of the best speakers klipsch makes are 2 ways... epics, jubilee, & some of the pro & KPT models. for many speakers, a 2 way will be a higher quality mid/tweet because they put more of the budget into the 2 speakers vs dividing it up into 3 speakers/drivers/horns. that really applies to car audio too, a 2 way 6.5" or 6x9" speaker is usually better than a 3 or 4 way, at the same price point of course. i dont know the difference in the drivers or diaphram materials between the klf & kg so the 2 way vs 3 way comments i made may not apply here, just something to consider.

i tried to find some technical info on them but came up with very little... just mentioning that based on how they look, if they are just standard fiber or poly type woofer cone material, i'd question how much real sound absorbing they would actually do. you'd think the company would want to provide some details on them so people would know what they are & could compare to other "real" sound absorbing panels out there. but they look cool.

but what is their purpose?

the woofer cap in the quartet is definitely a 50uf according to the schematic posted here. can you post a pic of the x-over? unless there was a revision to the quartet x-over, it should not be 80uf... maybe a previous owner changed it out & misread the value or tried to experiment with changing it? i agree you should keep the values the same as stock. the quartets are great speakers & i see no benefit to change the x-over unless you are doing other major mods.

best of luck on the new fuse... but most likely its not going to fix it. fuses blow for a reason so putting a new one in will probably just blow again. i went through the same thing with the 12" version recently. the issue is the amp itself goes bad (like sooo many other klipsch sub amps) i tried replacing a common bad capacitor on these & after further research i found its usuallly the yelllow glue they use all over on the board, it goes bad & becomes conductive causing shorts in the amp. & its more invoolved that just scraping it off, i tried that as well. there are some places that will repair the amp for about $150-$200, or you can buy a plate amp from parts express & swap out the power section that bolts right in to the klipsch plate or use the entire PE amp with a little mod to the sub box. or, if you have a modern receiver with sub x-over controls you can just run a separate amp to it. these are/were decent subs but the plate amps klipsch uses are prone to failure way to much for me to buy any of their subs.

Here's Mr Crites answer to this question that contradicts most the answers posted. I have no opinion either way, just another answer to consider. Q: Do components have a break-in time? A: Some do and some don't. Capacitors would be a definite NO. Let's look at this one a bit. You have new good quality capacitors installed in your crossovers. Capacitors have exactly two qualities that effect the sound of your music that goes through them. Those are capacitance (what we use them for) and ESR. ESR is the sum of all other qualities of a capacitor other than capacitance expressed as an Equivalent Series Resistance. ESR is a bad thing. Good caps have ESR so low it is barely measurable, on the order of a couple of hundredths of an ohm. ESR is made up of stuff like the resistance of the leads and their connections to the foil inside the capacitor or stray inductance or dielectric absorption. So, we put our new caps in the crossovers. These new caps are right on the capacitance value the design calls for and the ESR is almost unmeasurably low. What exactly of these two qualities do you expect to change with break-in? And if either of them changed, why would you expect the sound to get better since the only way they could change is to go away from the "perfect" values they had to start with? I hope any caps you use in your crossovers are good enough that they do not change at all for many years of use. Q: But my speakers sound so bright after putting in the new caps that I have to hope they change with break-in. In fact I am pretty sure they are getting better as I listen longer. They must be changing. A: Sounding brighter is a good thing. That means your old caps were really bad and had high ESR. That high ESR had the impedance all upset on the crossovers and you had the drivers all trying to play at the wrong frequencies. Also, the high ESR was directly attenuating the high frequencies. Now with the new good caps, the frequency and level relationships are back to where the factory had them when the speakers were new. The fact that you think they are changing now is because you are getting used to them sounding like they should. The break in is occurring but it is inside your head instead of inside the speakers.

cool looking wall art... are these actual sound producing speakers or are they supposed to be acoustic baffles of some sort? depending what they are made of, i dont see much acoustic dampening coming from those.

no offense to your speakers, just answering your question....these are the older cheap best buy line of klipsch & nothing like the quality of other klipsch like the gold woofer reference line or other vintage klipsch heritage models that have high resale value. @wuzzer is pretty close to their value at ~$150 in good condition.

congrats on the new epics! as good as chorus are, i think the cf-4 (regardless of version) is the better speaker. mainly due to the fact that dual 12" woofers will move a LOT more air than 1 15" woofer. plus the d'appolito array makes for better imaging & keeps the possibly overly strong mid range of the chorus to a minimum. & the epics will do just as well in home theater as with 2ch music so its your calll after comparing them which one goes where. i have owned both & prefer the epic over the chorus(2)... but dont get me wrong, i love my chorus2 also & still own them. i regretfully sold the epics to help fund k-horns.

glad you found an amp, carvers are very good. yes you are experiencing the reality of power vs db... doubling the amp power only results in a 3db increase in volume, which in reality is not that much, especially when you are playing at a very loud level already, your ears dont perceive that 3-4db increase as a lot of actual volume. but what you are feeling is the added headroom & the ability of a quality amp to produce the lower bass sufficiently compared to the amp in the receiver. the whole version thing is over rated IMO, the epics are excellent speakers regardless of version & i bet 99% of people cant tell the difference between versions in a blind A-B test. maybe someone that owns v1 & v2 or 3 could tell a very slight difference after going back & forth for a long time, but it would be very minimal at best. enjoy your speakers & new amp!

i like rotel too, i have the rb-990bx which is 200watts/ch too, sounded great on my old cf-4's & now i swap it around between klipschorns, chorus 2, forte 2 & other brand speakers i have. it has very good specs & a huge damping factor of over 1000! ive seen them sell for around $300.

both gens of adcoms are good, but the 555II is the better amp, the original 555's usually selll for much cheaper than the 2 series. $550 for a gen 1 555 is rather high, i usually see them sell for around $350... the 555ii is a better amp & sells for around $400-450. i would pass on the 555 for $550. carvers are good too but usually much more expensive & many ive seen need repaired. but very good amps. crown is good too as well as many other brands in this used price range. im an adcom fan & have used their stuff for many years, pre amps, cd players, amps etc & they all work great & will drive most any speaker with easy. you can even go BIG & buy 2 of the 555ii's & bridge them to 600watts per channel with one amp to each speaker. but wear ear muffs!!!

keep in mind, when i say distortion or clipping, you cant really hear that, just like when you say your amp goes into protect but sounds good to you. any amp can go into clipping & you wont hear it. so be careful driving power hungry speakers with mediocre receivers... & no amp should ever be ran at full "wide open" power. they dont make the woofers & drivers for these epics anymore & you will have a heck of a time trying to located them if they blow. & no offense to you or your sony... but sony receivers are not very good, for about the same price you can get onkyo or yamaha receivers that have much better amplification & usually much better features. sony ES are decent quality but again for the price there are many other better brands. for amps, $400-$500 will get you a very good used amp in the 200watt per channel range. for about $400 you can get a adcom gfa555ii that is an excellent amp & will drive the epics to levels you have never heard before with your receiver, & the adcoms have clipping indicator lights to warn you if the amp is even beginning to approach clipping. many other brands in that price range too, keep checking your local CL or ebay or put a wanted ad in the garage sale section here.