EpicKlipschFan

check with member @ngen33r for repairs on this sub if you cant or dont want to do the repair yourself. he does excellent work with a fast turn around & is very affordable.

just to clarify, i dont think anyone implies they "NEED" tons of watts, they are obviously very efficient speakers & will do fine on lower power. BUT, with a lot of power, they do sound very good as well, mostly up loud since the woofer is a pro woofer designed to handle TONS OF POWER. & 35 watts of quality tube power is not really "low" considering many tube amps are less at ~10watts or lower. thats the benefit of heritage & other efficient klipsch speakers, they sound good on almost any kind of amp/power.

nice! love the oiled walnut finish.

lots of threads on forte/chorus upgrades on here, just do a search for them. im sure others will chime in with more details, but to answer your last questions on woofer/passives, some like to dampen the baskets with something like dynamat or roof flashing sold at home depot etc. you can also tune the passives a little lower by adding 1-2oz of weight to the center of the cone on the back side, some washers with rubber cement or epoxy, or just some tape for temporary testing to see if you like it. if they are in good working order, factory woofers are as good or better than the replacement options.

the power is controlled by the volume knob... you can usually tell when its too much power, the sound will break up & distort & with that much power on chorus 2's... your ears will hurt! tubes sound very nice & lower watts work with klipsch because they are so efficient... but for power hungry speakers like the chorus 2 with 1000 watts peak & a pro woofer, if you want loud chest pounding sound or rock concert levels, higher solid state power will do the job better than 35 watts of tube power. plus tube amps are usually 2-5x the price of decent mid level solid state amps... so all comes down to your budget & listening style.

i agree the brush on would be better, the link was to a spray can. i also agree people in general can over do things, but i think a few pieces of the butyl roofing tape or dynamat type stuff if you have it would be a lot easier to apply & definitely easier to remove if needed. & being much thicker would dampen better than a thin(er) coat of plastidip. or the rope caulk which is very cheap & easy to apply/remove, just seems the better approach to not over-doing an experiment with dampening vibrations. any of them will help.

that plasti dip stuff has been around for a long time & is popular for automotive applications like coating wheels or body panels or a whole car. however, it is very thin & likely wont dampen vibrations from horns etc very well. would take 5 or 10 cans to equal the thickness or damping of dynamat or rope caulk etc. much cheaper & easier with better results to use a dynamat type material or the roof & window stuff at home depot or lowes. i also agree its not a waste of time to use a vibration dampening material... the factory didn't use it or many other more expensive items like better capacitors for one reason, cost. the plastic horns on my k-horns would ring if you tapped them lightly with your hand although not as bad as the metal ones. i also have chorus 2 & forte 2 & if you knock or slap the top or sides of the cabinet with your hand they ring like crazy! i plan to use some dampening material on the backs of the horns, & woofer & passive baskets, possible something on the inner cabinets as well. some type of dampening wont hurt anything & if you use the dynamat or rope caulk it will come right off if you dont like it.

you are very welcome. the epics are front ported & should make placement rather simple compared to rear ported or rear passive radiators etc. i liked my cf4s close to but not tucked in teh corners & not towed in much, more forward facing, the big mid horn will throw a pretty large sound stage & stereo imaging was excellent. i would play with their placement a little more to get the sound you are happy with, them deal with the bass, if its too strong, with tone controls or EQ. these epics are one of the most efficient speakers klipsch makes, so big solid state power like that crown is not needed & likely why the sony ES sounds better at everything besides rock concert levels. if you want to use a separate amp, i would suggest something a little more refined & lower power, more like 150-200wpc & a brand geared more towards sound quality than quantity. i have ran my cf4s off an adcom gfa555ii & a rotel amp, both were 200wpc. also keep in mind that receivers are not the best pre amps, getting a real pre amp will sound a lot better than a receiver. every system & room is different so just play around with placement & settings for what you have now, but i still say the sw15 is outdated & not a good mix for the might cf4's! klipsc has some good subs, but many of them have amp issues & are expensive to fix. i would suggest looking at SVS or HSU or velodyne or other brands that specialize in subs. svs has excellent customer service & usually will replace a failed amp even out of warranty sometimes. might want to start another thread in this sub section for suggestions on a good klipsch sub.

they are rated for 100 continuous & 1000 peak. but they cant handle a lot more than 100 watts if the power is clean. https://f072605def1c9a5ef179-a0bc3fbf1884fc0965506ae2b946e1cd.ssl.cf2.rackcdn.com/product-specsheets/Chorus-II-brochure.pdf

congrats on the cf4's! they are great speakers. i tried to find a pic of the rear of your sony receiver & didnt find any clearly showing the outputs, but there is a surround RCA output section & RCA main in/outs. so if there is a single sub out that most 5.1 receivers have, you could use that with a Y splitter. BUT older 5.1 receivers dont have any real bass management & when you tell it sub on, it cuts the main speaker at 80hz. the cf4 are a full range speaker & you dont want to cut any of the low bass out of them. your other option is to use the main pre outs with a y splitter & have 2 going to the sub & the other 2 back into the main rca inputs on the receiver. that will keep full range to the speakers. another suggestion on that sw15 sub is to not use it at all... the sw subs are very old from the early 90's & dont compare to todays subs. they are lower power & dont go much lower than the cf4s anyways & definitely not at the volume the cf4's can do. if you want a real sub, consider a newer option with better inputs/outputs & freq options. personally i would sell the sw15 for a better sub or just run the cf4's alone full range. & another suggestion is to get a newer receiver with more power & output & bass management options. the sony ES stuff is decent, but these speakers are made to handle a LOT more power than 80watts. they will really come to life with great bass with a real 150-200 watts. you could keep the sony as a pre & buy a better separate amp with more power that will make a world of difference vs the sony & let the subwoofer quality bass of the epics shine. so basically, try the speakers by themselves & i bet they sound better than with that sw sub. or try the sub with the main outs & a y splitter for full range to the speakers. & if you really want/need a sub, sell the sw15 & find a better modern sub, even an entry level modern 12" sub will best that ancient sw sub. ive owned the sw10, sw12 & sw15, they are mediocre at best compared to newer subs.

all chorus & chorus2 are 3 way. are they for sale? if so we need a price. nice looking speakers & best of luck on the sale.

the pic shows a chorus2 radiator & the chorus 2 mid horns. i am aware the 2 models have different x-overs, just wanted to provide accurate info to keep the thread on track.

he has chorus2 radiators & mids. why would he need to adjust the chorus 2 x-overs?

you should be able to build nice boxes of the same dimensions as chorus2 pretty easy, but if you want the exact same look as originals with the recessed motor board it will take a little more work to cut the groove for the front board. if you want that same look & your friends cant do it, some members on here have built & are good at bulding speaker & sub boxes & im sure can help you out... or check out local cabinet shops or furniture restorations shops, they can duplicate the design & are usually fairly priced. i think chorus2 & newer models besides original heritage models are made from MDF with a thin veneer. i'm sure you know, those parts are for/from chorus2... not chorus1 with ports as mentioned above. & if you have basic soldering skills you can change out the caps yourself with any decent brand capacitors, the chorus 2 are easy to do. or spend more if youre budget allows & contact member deang on here for work or suggestions of top of the line caps.

that veneer hurts my eyes.. way to busy! & $12k? LOL.