EpicKlipschFan

to me concert levels are more like mentioned above with tool, ive seen them 3 times & probably 50 other big name rock bands & many smaller rock shows in local bars. back in the late 80's motley crue was touring for one of their new albums & was bragging about setting records for the loudest concert, they set a record of i think 121db in my city. when its that loud your ears distort & you feel kind of a tickle sensation. way too loud! so i'd say concert level is anything above ~95-100db, do that for an hour or so & you will feel it in your ears, mine were muffled for a day or so after that motley crue show.

im not trying to be a wise guy here & this is a serious question: what cleaning or service does any given piece of audio equipment need each year? what exactly is being cleaned or serviced yearly? what environment is the equipment in that requires a yearly cleaning or parts to be serviced? im seriously at a loss to understand this & have never heard of anyone doing such a thing. cleaning & service as needed is understandable or for older gear thats never been cleaned or needs service, but every year paying someone to pull 4 screws & remove the top to blow out a micro layer of dust is new to me, & it does not in any way harm or degrade the components inside. what do they charge for this service?

can you post a pic of the cracked surrounds? cracking is very common on the kg4 for some reason & it usually isnt on the moving part of the surround, its more often on the non moving edges that are glued to the frame. if thats the case they dont need to be replaced since the cracks dont leak air & arent in the moving area. & as mentioned, the rear is not a powered woofer, its how the cabinet is tuned for the bass, many other popular klipsch models use this like the quartet, forte & chorus2. speakers should be placed in or near a corner for best bass but out about a foot or so from the rear wall.

what do you mean by "serviced every year? what service was done every year?

SOLD.

i saw those on a FB audio group, probably more than just veneer work... the cabinets look like they are splitting &/or swollen in some areas, likely from water or bad moisture damage.

there is more often than not a lot more to repairing a blown sub amp or any electrical component than just replacing some capacitors... it requires proper diagnosis to determine what part went bad & WHY it went bad. these cheap china made sub amp issues are usually related to things like power supplies going bad, other component failures like transistors, resistors etc, or most of all bad glue that becomes corrosive/conductive & shorts out the board &/or other components on it. im all for learning & doing DIY repairs but aside from obvious visible signs like a bulging capacitor etc, if you arent familiar with how to diagnose the failure its probably best to send it to a professional. i have used ngen33r on here & he does great work at very affordable prices with a very fast turnaround. if the sub is worth the cost of repair at ~$125, its well worth having a pro repair it. best of luck if you go the DIY route.

post a pic of the tear but should be able to patch it a couple different ways, cig rolling paper & white glue works good but can also use a silicone type caulk or RTV auto gasket maker, ive used permatex ultra black a few times on speaker surrounds or cones from the back side & it works great since its very flexible. depends on how bad the tear/hole is as to the best way to patch it. & if its too bad or ugly, you can always just buy a new dust cap.

& until you verify the amps are in good working order... dont hook up another set of speakers to them! or the same thing will happen. there is a guy that specializes in repairing these older adcoms & makes new boards at very decent prices... if the caps leaked its very likely the boards are damaged beyond repair. i have his info saved on my home PC if you want to have the adcoms repaired & can pass it on when i get home later.

yes that price is rather high, almost double what average to good condition cf4 sell for. not quite sure either what the comparison above is about... H3 are apples to the cf4 watermelons in sound & size. there is some mystique & rarity to the big epics & they are a great all around speaker for music or movie use. best of luck in your search.

have you had the adcoms tested &/or do they work right? the 565 are known to have bad capacitors that short out the PCB & can cause damage to speakers. these older adcoms dont have any protection circuit & when they go they will take out any speakers connected to them. if the woofers pushed out & glowed red, the amps definitely have some issues. check wth simply speakers to see if they can recone your original woofers, if not search for some used ones or buy the repros on ebay.

keep in mind that using poly caps where the electrolytics are probably wont fit, a 40uf poly cap is very large compared to the lytics & will require some manipulation to get them to fit. in that section the lytic caps are fine as they are just a "dump" for the woofer section, the ERSE electrolytic caps will do fine there, the real improvement in sound is for the mid & tweeter caps if the originals are indeed bad or out of spec. i will refrain from claiming the stock caps need to be replaced without actually testing them or suggesting a specific brand, since some on here get all bent out of shape if you dont use "authorized" klipsch caps or the whole "they arent klipsch anymore" thing... however, with the age of the caps & your experience in the sound it does indicate the caps are falling out of spec & would benefit from replacing with your choice of brand. there are better quality caps out there than what klipsch used & if you stick with the same values they will still be correct specs & should improve the sound if what youre hearing is related to bad caps. as for the 3.25 cap, 3.0 would probably be ok as its so close to the 3.25 based on the 5-10% tolerance but ERSE does make a 3.30 poly cap that is even closer to the 3.25. i have used ERSE poly & lytic caps in many speakers including klipsch of this era & they sound very good & improved the same symptoms you described on a pair of chorus 2 i recapped. they were suggested by Bob Crites as a very good budget cap that he said measure very good, he uses erse lytics in all his crossovers & kits & their other parts like inductors & resistors. best of luck bringing these cf3s back to how they should sound.

just FYI: the bash 300 amp has about 40 watts less power than the rw12d amp.

@ngen33r can repair these amps & many other klipsch model subs. cheaper than the bash 300 & retains klipsch specs & digital controls of the D models.