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Khornukopia last won the day on December 7 2019

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  1. You might need go to Settings on your TV, select Audio, then Digital Optical, then PCM. Different TV brands may use other names on their menus, but this should help you figure it out.
  2. Recessing the woofer sometimes requires a thicker motor board, especially with a subwoofer. On the mid horn above, I glued on extra backer board where the mounting screws attach. The horn quoted above is a ZXPC 18x10 and the driver is a K-69A, but I have used a few different drivers, all with good results. If you are modifying a K-horn or La Scala and keeping the passive crossover, the factory stock K-55 with an adapter is a great driver.
  3. I have a picture frame of quarter inch thick wood bolted to the K-402 mouth flange. Its purpose is decorative, but maybe it also adds a little bit of stiffness. The effectiveness would probably be relative to the SPLs in the room.
  4. First thing is to test or replace the fuse.
  5. Yes the wires to the woofers on most K-horns are soldered on.
  6. Yes, I did that to the horn on a center channel speaker last year. When I changed that motor board a few months ago, the same horn was surface mounted, because the horn shape looks good on the surface mount, and because it is less work than using the router to cut the recess.
  7. I like my Klipsch speakers better than the very high priced Wilson Audio speakers, but that company does seem to have a good philosophy about loudspeakers, and continuing the work of the late Dave Wilson.
  8. I swapped out the old original K-1133 midrange drivers a few weeks ago and put JBL Selenium D-405 2" drivers on the K-402 horns. These and the B+C DE-120 tweeters and the KPT-415 woofer combination, bi-amped with separate bass/treble passive crossovers sound excellent in my home theater room.
  9. In my experience, compression driver mounting studs are common. The K-402 throat does create a tight tolerance, so it is helpful to remove (or install) all four nuts using an even pattern, not just completely removing (or installing) one fastener at a time. After doing it a couple times and learning the technique, it becomes fairly easy.
  10. I use this type of cabinet bolt for attaching the K-402 flange to the mounting brackets. The low profile, wide head design might work good for other applications too.
  11. My Klipsch KW-120-THX subwoofer pair and KA-1000 power amp had not been used for a long while, so I loaned them to a friend. They sound very powerful and smooth in his 900 sq. ft. living room with 14 ft. high ceiling. Better low bass response in his place than in my house, so the room makes a big difference.
  12. Your speaker system looks interesting. Maybe you just need to add an MEH center channel?
  13. After giving this some more thought, there are numerous restaurants, bars, and amusement parks with pole mounted outdoor speakers that have been out in the weather for years without a problem, so you can hang some outdoor rated speakers once and be done. My first reply was a little over-protective because I was picturing a pair of nicely finished "indoor" speakers!
  14. Outdoor rated speakers would be fine in the rain and normal conditions, but exposure to wind can damage the drivers and the direct sunlight will eventually bake them. The way you describe the location's exposure to the sun and the weather elements, I would want to protect a pair of expensive speakers anytime they are not playing music. There are different ways to do this, such as a simple canvas shroud with a drawstring to secure the cover with a drain hole in the bottom, or a wooden cabinet with a latching cover/door.
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