parlophone1

DeanG, can I safely buy the capacitors from links that you have posted above? I notice that Daytons from PartsExpress are 250V, while my original 6,8 µF capacitor is rated 100V. Could you put the link for the replacement resistor in case I decide to change it? Thanks...

Any other measurements in capacitors that I should care for beside microfarads and volts? Why resistor? Just curious, did not investigate this issue...

Thank you all for replies. Regarding the capacitor for the tweeter, several poeple have done that and were not happy. They claim that the sound changed to the worse. Do not know what capacitors they used but it seem weard to me. I was also thinking about replacing the internal wires from drivers to crossover. The factory wires look OK but they are so thin. Any advices on that?

I have speakers that are now 40 years old (Infinity Qb). They are sealed enclosure, 3-way with ribbon tweeter. Sound is acceptable in most recordings. However, I have a strong feeling that mid frequencies are subdued and sound in that area is not as detailed as I wish. On the internet there seems to be unanimous agreement that after such a long service the capacitor on mid-driver (12,5 µF) should be replaced with the new one. I had a plan to take out the crossovers and to replace capacitors for mid-drivers. While there, I plan to replace clip-on binding posts/terminals with a modern one, to seal speaker boxes with silicone glue and brace them. Here is the crossover scheme: Now to the point: the only way to access the inside of a speaker box is through the woofer opening at the front panel. Taking the woofer out enables the access to the crossover, since the crossover is placed directly behind the woofer on the speaker rear panel. I unscrewed the woofer and put the polyfill aside. The internal wires are attached to the speakers with crimps and soldered on the crossover side. It seems that nobody has been inside the speakers until now. Everything is intact and look fresh as the first day the speakers left the factory. This is a look at the crossover from the inside: 1 - Now here is the problem for me, the crossover is glued to the back panel with a sticky elastic glue and additionally densely stapled with narrow staples. It is flush with the chipboard. Any suggestions on how to remove the crossover from the chipboard? I would like to leave the speakers as intact and original as possible. I suppose that it is possible to do the job with the crossover attached but it would me much more difficult. 2 - Capacitors replacement. I cannot find single 12,5 µF capacitor online. I will do some more search, but that leaves me with the option of putting two in parallel (5,6 and 6,8) which together would make 12,4 µF. Any suggestions what capacitors I should use keeping in mind price/quality ratio? 3 – While bracing the cabinets, I have to remove the polyfill which seems to be loosely attached to the cabinet walls. I suppose that I would have to use some kind of glue when putting polyfil back again. What glue is that? Spray? I am doing that for the first time, so bear with me here.

Definitely some room issues. I have auditioned most of Tritons in their lineup, to me the bas integration is the crucial issue to do right. Otherwise the will sound off.

I know this is nor the direct answer that you are looking for, but I sugest some search through this forum. Key words would be veneering etc. You will get valuable information. Wellcome to the forum😀😀😀😀

I only have 1969 regular LP and new remastered record. Between these two records I can concur with you on how they sound.

I do not know if the recording technique has been the same for all the examples above, but to me the Altec 817 HP9040 (the first one) sounds best, certainly the cleanest of them all here. I would put Cornwalls to the second place. In last example it seems that something is wrong with the recording process, the sound is generally smeared. Tonality in Altecs (the first) and Cornwalls are somehow correct. However, in my opinion neither of them plays high piano notes correct. They seem too bright. Cornwall is the best here.

I have been listening the Monitor Audio silver 100 several times. On paper, the bas on these goes lower than the Heresies. It is bas-reflex, which I do not particularly like, but it is well integrated. Out of all standmounters that are similarly priced, they sounded best to my ears. If I have to buy speakers on a price/value ratio, I would pick them up. Great to read about your satisfaction with Heresies III. But unless heavily discounted, they are much pricier than Monitor Audio.

How is the sound from that amp? What did you have before this hybrid? As regard the lenses, a scratch or two on the front lens element shold do nothing to afect the quality of the photo. But a scratch on the rear lens element usualy does influence more.

Thanks for bringing that threads to the atention again. Useful information...

Yes, ASA 400 is still in production. As I understand Fuji is discontinuing films that are to close in their production lines. Eg. Superia Xtra 200 is to close to their cheapest C200 film, and double the price. So they just shut it off. I tried both their ASA 200, Superia is clearly better film, 4th layer and all that tech stuff. It has better color balance and richer colors.

And put Heresy in between the Cornwalls 😊

It was not micro-nikkor, although I have 200mm f4 AiS. The shot was taken with do-it-all lens Nikkor 28-85mm f3,5-4,5 AFD, the one that Ken Rockwell review here (https://kenrockwell.com/nikon/2885af.htm). The lens has macro ability at 28mm. The rest is up to the shooter because there is no auto focus at macro, it has to be manually focused to the object. I already had the old version of that lens, which was serviced not so well and have some play in the front barrel. Takes mostly good photos but is too unpredictable. Later on I have been lucky one kid was selling almost brand new one for cheap, so I took the chance. Anyway, the lens is sharp almost as the primes, at all distances, has a decent coating and provide for fairly good contrast. I take it around when I'm not in a mood for primes.

Thanks. I'm not in the US, Europe - Croatia.

Tried macro mode on my old Nikkor. Last batch of Fuji Superia Xtra 200 35mm film that was available locally. i think Fuji discontinued this film now.

Old roman arenas are designed for good acoustics. Not far away from Udine (ITA) is the Pula (Croatia) old roman arena. Many bands were and are performing there with great success.

Very nicely done, these will look real pro .

I am still far away from reaching the sound that satisfy my expectations. However I can confirm that Gold Cuboid measurements described by George Cardas also worked well with sealed speakers. Wish I could have speakers that go flush with the wall.

Welcome to new member. To shortly answer your question: I have the ears that rarely hold most of the earphones in place, so from reason of pure physical nature I use headphones. I know that there are earphones that provide for better placing in the ear and probably the sound is good also, but I do not use them frequently enough to investigate this further.

What do you mean by better? If you meant sharper, I doubt that more than 1/3200 shutter would make any difference. 300mm is a long shoot, vibration reduction should have nothing to do or help with moving object, at least that is my knowledge about that. I suppose that you did not used the tripod. That could make things better regarding sharpness. Autofocus is another thing to consider. Just a few things...

I heard all of them for a short time. R15M to my ears had most balanced sound altogether than the rest. RP160 sounded a little thin in the midrange but had a decent soundstage. May be things would be better after careful placement in the room and after letting them play for awhile. Sixes sounded like they are trying to play way more than they really are. I liked it in the beginning but after awhile it become tiresome. In short, more fun than 160s.

If you have a stylus that is glued to the base, than an alcohol based cleaners may be harmful meaning they can dissolve the bondage between the two. What some people prefer for cleaning is this https://www.analogplanet.com/content/flux-hi-fi-electronic-stylus-cleaner.

For that kind of money its a treat.

Without a microscopic picture of the stylus I think you can hardly see what is going on. But from what I am seeing here, everything is full of dust. I would first go with the carbon brush over the stylus and take another photo like you already did to see if there is any difference (pardon me if you already did it ) . Carbon brush would not clean the dust on cantilever but it should clean the stylus itself. To me it looks like accumulated dust mostly.