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He gave a favorable review of the H3's a few years back. I think if you send him gear and kiss his butt, he will write a good review of just about anything. I haven't read his column regularly in a couple years because everything he comes across is just the greatest thing since the wheel, and any negative traits are hidden between the lines. He's a master wordsmith. If anybody finds a negative review, please share. https://www.cnet.com/news/dont-back-down-klipsch-heresy-iii-speakers/

What kind of TT do you have?

Just make sure your line-in is switched to "phono" and the ground wire is connected. If so, then there may be a faulty phono stage inside the R-15PM.

Jeff is correct. A 4G uplink plus a 4G uplink does not equal an 8G uplink, unless you have a special software driver on your PC and the server you are talking to has software to aggregate data streams from two different IP addresses. What is your goal here? Based on the Killer wifi card, I'm assuming you want better gaming performance?

Basically, that adapter lets you dual-home your PC and separate gaming traffic from other browsing traffic. Unfortunately, in the end, your son's Fortnite traffic will all end up going across a single 4G pipe to the internet 🙂. This isn't such a bad thing - my backup 4G internet connection is faster than my primary AT&T DSL link.

When you say two separate wifi networks are available on the PC, do you mean the PC's wifi adapter sees two different wifi-access-points with different network names (SIDs), or the PC's wifi adapter sees one wifi-access-point with a 5ghz band and a 2.4ghz band? Regardless, wifi adapters login to one radio on one wifi-access-point at a time. The best way to get better wifi bandwidth is to be in close proximity to the WAP with a 5ghz radio on a channel that doesn't overlap with your neighbors and connect via 802.11ac.

Airplay is lossless up to CD quality. Works great. Some AVRs support it natively via WIFI. To kick it up a few notches, check out Roon (roonlabs.com). It's a streaming engine that can take almost any source and stream it to almost any destination, with a database and metadata that makes iTunes look like a Web browser from 1998. If your AVR does not have built-in streaming of some sort, you can stream to a chromecast/airport end-point and pipe that into your AVR, or Roon supports various dedicated hardware endpoints.

No and no. What don't you like about it?

A couple of Heresy 3's in there, and that place would be rockin'

+1 for Roon.

I have stock LS2's with a single Rythmik F12-G sub. The settings will depend a lot on your room. In my case, for 2-channel listening, I run the LS2's full-range (not through an AVR) and set the crossover on the sub to 80hz/24. I have a large room null at 52hz, and I find crossing the sub at 80hz helps minimize this hole as best as possible - along with helping the LS2's low-end. I have a room node at 31hz that I try to flatten out with the Rythmik's built-in PEQ filter. I digitally apply a convolution filter to mildly reduce some bass nodes/humps and boost the treble slightly. For 5.1 movies, I run all speakers set to small, crossed at 80hz, and send the bass below 80hz, along with the LFE channel, to the sub which is also crossed at 80/24. Not sure what effect have both crossovers on the AVR and sub have, but it sounds good. I leave it this way because I'm mostly 2-channel. If you are doing mostly 5.1, then you can set the Rythmik's crossover to AVR/12 and turn the crossover knob as high as it will go because the AVR will handle all the crossover duties. I have a really old AVR so I don't have a lot of options or any sort of built-in room correction. If Audyssey tells you to cross them at 60hz, that doesn't sound unreasonable. In general, I would apply the mildest, least-aggressive room correction first, just to get you in the right ballpark, then manually (gently) tweak it to your liking.

I'm not sure. Something isn't right. Wonder if he has them hooked up out-of-phase or they are being powered by an AVR and he has them set to 'small' or something like that.

Exactly - the documentation for the Golden Ear Triton Sevens says as much. Square room with hard surfaces on a concrete slab = standing waves. Even so, there should be some bass somewhere in the room as he moves around. I was trying to figure out if the listening position just happens to be in a bass-null area or if there is no bass to be found anywhere in the room. If it's the latter, it could be a setup/connection issue.

Was there bass anywhere in the room as you moved around?

Do they sound any different?

yes, any sub.

If they are self-powered speakers connected via USB, it's gotta be the R-15PM. If so, they have a subwoofer line-out.

Double check the model number - are these the R-15PM?

I own both the H3 and LS2 and use both with subs. The H3 requires less help from the sub then the LS2. The H3 is awesome - maybe 75% of an LS2. My impressions match yours. The LS2 is simply bigger, smoother, more dynamic, and more detailed than the H3. The LS2's midrange is voiced differently than the H3, being less in-your-face, and that accounts for some of the smoothness. Enjoy. PM me or start a separate thread on your experience with the Anthem MRX-720 once you get it up and running.

So many opportunities for sophomoric male humor in this thread, but I have a reputation to maintain. I just came back from a vacation in France and we played a lot of "Petanque" which is what they call Bocci ball over there.

There was a survey done, or maybe I'm making this up, that it takes on-average 46 REW EQ curves before you get it right. Only 45 more to go! You start of tweaking the crap out of every little thing to get a flat curve, then you realize that sounds awful, and you ease back off until you apply the bare minimum of corrections, usually downward, to correct one or two big room problems and dial in your house sound.

REW is an amazing program that leads to endless tweaks. There is always something new to learn about it -sort of like Photoshop. I would start by using REW + your UMIK to get the best SPL graph with minimal room reflections by positioning your speakers. Then, phase-2 is to dial this in by creating an EQ filter in REW (using a light hand and favoring negative corrections over adding sound), and then exporting this filter to your mini-DSP. I'm not sure what method the mini-DSP uses for this, but other programs accept a .wav file exported from REW that contains the EQ correction filter. This is a good tutorial that applies to everything you are asking about, except it exports a convolution filter to Roon rather than to a mini-DSP: https://community.roonlabs.com/t/a-guide-how-to-do-room-correction-and-use-it-in-roon/23800 One more note - that 40hz suck-out could be a room null right at the spot you have your UMIK. Trying to correct a room-null by adding sound doesn't really work.

Agree with above - try a low-cost iphone-compatable DAC and see if you can tell the difference. To put it another way, there is no point in worrying about AAC 256 vs 320 MP3 vs CD-lossless and running it through the DAC in the iPhone.

I agree with all of the above - 320k MP3 sounds excellent. It's very very difficult for me to tell a difference - and that's only after concentrating and replaying a bunch of times (maybe). There are several online blind tests you can try for yourself. The source/mastering makes much more of a difference than 320k MP3 vs CD-lossless.

I don't use Spotify but a quick web search shows that it uses the Ogg Vorbis (open source MP3) compressed/lossy format to stream to your iPhone. Within the iPhone app, you can choose the stream quality level you want all the way up to ~320kbs (extreme setting.) From there, the DAC inside your iPhone converts it to analog and sends it over to your VTA 70. In an ideal world, a lossless CD quality stream would be preferred but I think the higher-quality/higher-bitrate lossy encoders do a fantastic job - real tough for me to tell a difference. For a low cost upgrade, there are several external DACs that are compatible with iPhones (some need a cable, some are a cable with a DAC built-in) that you can try. On my MacBook, I use a Dragonfly DAC that's several years old for headphone listening and it made a noticeable improvement over the onboard DAC. Some of this is due to it's ability to drive the headphones, but some of it is because it has a better DAC.