robert_kc

IME, RF-7II sound great with tube amps, except KT88 sound too bright (which can be mitigated via the treble control on my McIntosh MX110Z). I prefer RF-7II with 6L6GC - beautiful sound quality playing classical and opera - no harshness or listener fatigue. (I don’t care for RF-7II paired with solid-state amps.) Here's my basement system: Front, center, and left speakers are Klipsch RF-7 II. A single rear speaker is a Klipsch RF-7. Subwoofers: SVS SB16-Ultra, Klipsch R-115SW. Source: Oppo UDP-205 universal player. Amps: Scott 272 (EL34), Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO (single-ended-pentode (SEP) power amp equipped with 6L6GC), Scott 222C (7189), McIntosh MX110Z tuner/preamp, Fisher KX-200 (7591), Scott 296 (6L6GC), Pilot SA-260 (EL34), Scott LK150 (KT88). A patch panel allows me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and F/F RCA cables enable me to connect an amp to the Oppo, and (optionally) a power amp to the MX110Z. I can use this system as 2.0, 2.2 or 4.2 (i.e., single rear channel). FWIW, a great “minimalist system” is the Inspire “Fire Bottle” SEP power amp equipped with 6L6GC, connected directly to the Oppo UDP-205 (i.e., no pre-amp), driving Klipsch RF-7II. The Fire Bottle SEP amp equipped with KT-150 also pairs well with KF-7II. I've not heard the RF-7III. I’m intrigued. I considered upgrading, however since I have my system with the RF-7II voiced to my satisfaction via tube rolling, I've decided not to change. I can’t justify the expense … for now. Plus, in order to have LCR match, I’d have to buy 3 RF-7III, and I think I’d have a difficult time selling my 3 RF-7II. (I imagine that most people would want to buy a stereo pair.) I’m looking forward to reading someone’s assessment of RF-7II vs. RF-7III side-by-side – hopefully playing non-electronic music, such as classical music. Happy New Year everyone! One of my resolutions this year is to spend more time riding my exercise bike listening to my basement system, vs. sitting in a recliner listening to one of my other systems!

I must not understand what you’re saying. My understanding is that one of the enhancements provided by Windows 10 is its native support of hi-res FLAC files. I routinely play 24/192 FLAC files from my Windows 10 PC and my Music Streamer II DAC (USB connected). I don’t care for the Groove music player that came with my Windows 10 PC, but it successfully plays hi-res FLAC files via my USB DAC. (IIRC, my old Music Streamer II DAC might down-convert 24/192 to 24/96.) Please help me understand what you mean when you say that Windows 10 “does not natively support higher definition files”.

In my basement system, the front, center, and left speakers are Klipsch RF-7 II. A single rear speaker is a Klipsch RF-7. The center RF-7 II is on its side, in a custom shelf, directly below the TV. All vacuum tube amps. Sounds good to me.

Yes, you must install speakers that fit your space.

Did you buy the MC275 new, or used? If used, the seller might have swapped in some old tubes. If new, 80 days sounds like a ridiculously short life for a set of tubes. With that said, my MC275 MkV's output tubes needed to be replaced when the amp wasn't very old. (I bought the amp used.) I replaced the output tubes with KT88 Genalex Gold Lion - new (Russia), and it has performed flawlessly since. Other tubes I installed at the same time the output tubes were replaced : 12AX7: V1: Genalex Gold Lion 12AX7 / ECC83 / B759 gold pin (Russia) 12AX7: V4, V5: new Tung-Sol gold pin (Russia) 12AT7: Mullard CV4024 NOS I bought all of the replacement tubes from a seller (Jim McShane) who tests each tube. I think that's important. I own more than 2 dozen tube amps ... and I love them ... but I tell myself that I have to accept that fact that they sometimes can be a PITA ...

Welcome, Sjsooner. What types of music do you listen to? How loud? How large is your listening room?

I don’t own tube amps from China. My tube amps are vintage made-in-USA. IME, excellent sound quality in reproduced music is possible via vintage tube amps and RF-7II. (I listen to classical music and opera, with occasional big-band music.) As I said earlier, if you're unhappy with the "transistor sound", I suggest that you consider a vintage tube amp. Every tube amp has a different sound signature. Where do you live? Perhaps you can listen to someone else's system that includes RF-7II and tube amps.

Codyred, How loud do you listen? Am I correct that you listen to only digitized recordings, not LPs? FWIW, here’s what I have currently connected to my RF-7II: Basement system: Front, center, and left speakers are Klipsch RF-7 II. A single rear speaker is a Klipsch RF-7. Subwoofers: SVS SB16-Ultra, Klipsch R-115SW. Source: Oppo UDP-205 (with USB hard drive containing high-res FLAC recordings). Amps: Scott 272, Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO, Scott 222C, McIntosh MX110Z tuner/preamp paired with Scott LK150, Fisher KX-200, Scott 296, Pilot SA-260. A patch panel allows me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and F/F RCA cables enable me to connect an amp to the Oppo, and a power amp to the MX110Z. Chromecast Audio for internet radio and Spotify Premium. All these amps were paired with the RF-7II because IMO they synergize well. (The LK150 needs the pre-amp’s tone controls in order to tame the KT88's treble.) For a vintage tube integrated amp <= $1k, I recommend a professionally restored Scott 299C. (My 299C is in a different system.) If you’re committed to a solid-state integrated amp, willand mentioned the NAD C375BEE. My NAD C375BEE is installed in a different system (Klipsch Palladium P-37F), but I’m confident the C375BEE would perform well with the RF-7II, considering its tone controls. However, no subwoofer out. IMO, subwoofer outputs should be handled by the universal disc player, such as an Oppo unit (e.g., UDP-205, or BDP-105, BDP-95), in order to off-load bass from the main amp and speakers. An Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO (SEP power amp) equipped with 6L6GC (approximately 8wpc), driven directly by the variable output of an Oppo player (e.g., UDP-205, BDP-105, BDP-95), sounds good with RF-7II. Assuming you want to get away from the “transistor sound”, and you don’t listen at “ear bleed” levels, and a UDP-205 or BDP-105 will play all your recordings (i.e., no LPs), this is a good combo. You can connect a subwoofer to the Oppo. If you want a new <= $1k solid-state receiver with subwoofer crossover, you might investigate the Outlaw RR2160 receiver. I have no experience with this receiver, but it has received good reviews (see Dec 2017 Stereophile), and it has a subwoofer output, “speaker EQ” (bass boost), and tone controls. I imagine it would do OK with the RF-7II. Bottom line, if you're unhappy with the "transistor sound", I suggest a tube amp.

Thanks for sharing. I own three RF-7II, plus one RF-7, in a 4.2 system. I'm curious about how the RF-7III would sound. (I listen to classical music using tube amps.) However, I'm satisfied with what I have, so the RF-7III aren't in my immediate plans. Please keep posting pics and comments!

How much floor space do you have? Each Cornwall is a foot wider than the RF-III.

There are a non-trivial number of modern classical recordings available in surround-sound (SACD or Blu-ray). And there's not much content in the rear channels. If your main speakers must be far apart due to room layout, 3.0 or 3.1 can make sense.

Mike V: Congrats on the Forte III. Beautiful! You don’t need an AVR (or surround-sound pre-amp/processor) to play multi-channel digital recordings (e.g., SACD, Pure Audio Blu-ray, and Blu-ray video). An Oppo universal player (e.g. UDP-205) will play any digital recording, and has built-in "pre-amp" functionality, including selectable downmixing (e.g., 7.1, 5.1, 5.0, 2.1, 2.0), bass management (i.e., configurable subwoofer crossover), and volume control. (I use the Oppo's analog line-level RCA connections to my vintage tube power amps - in other words using the Oppo's DACs and pre-amp.) Stereo recordings play through the L&R channels, plus optional subwoofer (based on configurable bass management parameters such as crossover frequency). Multi-channel SACDs and Blu-ray play through all 5 channels, assuming the recording has content in all channels. (Also, the Oppo has the capability to use DSPs to generate "pseudo-surround-sound" from stereo recordings via DTS Neo:6 Mode, if you wish.) You can configure the Oppo for 5.0 (or 5.1), and not connect the rear channels. (Most music has little rear channel content. And – IMO - the rear channels are a gimmick in movies.) You can connect any power amps (or integrated amps) you want. (I’m a tube guy, so I suggest 3 McIntosh MC30s for your 3 Forte III. Or, perhaps a Scott 296 stereo integrated amp for L&R, and a Scott 210F mono integrated amp for the center.) For LPs, you’ll need a stereo preamp (e.g., McIntosh MX110), or an integrated amp (e.g., Scott 296). (It might sound confusing, but it’s relatively simple.) I’m just offering a different perspective … in case you don’t want an AVR …

I own a pair of MC30s and an Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO, but they're installed in different systems. The MC30s are one of my favorite amps. (I like the classic “warm” tube sound.) Unfortunately, I don’t own Klipschorn. (I don’t have the room.) I have my MC30s paired with Snell Type CV. I have my Inspire SEP amp paired with my Klipsch RF-7II (101 dB sensitivity). Of course, one concern with a single-ended amp is whether or not the amp has adequate power. In addition to speaker sensitivity, other important factors are the size of the room (H x W x D), and how loud you listen, and if you use a subwoofer to off-load work from the main amp and speakers (i.e., crossover before the amp). The type of music is also important. Most pop music has little dynamic range, and is less demanding on a hi-fi system compared with uncompressed hi-resolution (e.g., 24bit/192kHz FLAC) recordings of large-scale orchestral music, such as classical music and opera. If you’re listening to a folk singer and acoustic guitar (or any music with little dynamic range), then a single-ended amp paired with high-sensitivity speakers (like your Klipschorn) will likely get the job done very nicely in an average size room at reasonable listening levels. OTOH, if you’re playing a high-res recording of Mahler’s Symphony 2, and/or have a huge room, and/or listen at “ear bleed” levels, then the extra power of MC30s may be better for the task. The Inspire SEP amp is capable of excellent sound quality, and offers a lot of flexibility in terms of tube rolling. Changing the Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO amp’s output tubes to a different supported type results in a significant change in sound quality. (Certain rectifier tubes must be used with certain output tubes.) Similarly, different input tubes are supported, and affect the sound. Here’s the output tubes that I’ve tried in my Inspire amp: Zenith 6V6G (vintage) Sylvania 6L6GA (vintage) Sylvania 7408 (vintage, 6V6 variant) Mullard EL34 Bugle Boy EL34 (vintage) Russian 6P3S-E (Russian military surplus 1980s 6L6GC equivalent) Groove Tube Gold Series GT6L6GE (6L6GC) McIntosh branded GE 6L6GC (vintage) GE 6L6GC (vintage) Tung-Sol 7581A (6L6GC variant) Tung-Sol 6L6G (6L6GC in a big bottle) Gold Lion KT88 Tung-Sol KT150 Gold Lion KT66 Sylvania 5881 Rectifiers that I’ve tried: 5Y3, 5U4, 5U4GB, 5V4, 5V4GA, 5AR4 (multiple manufacturers of each). Front-end (9 pin miniature socket) tubes that I’ve tried: 6CG7, 6N1P-EB, 6DJ8, 6N2P-EV, E88CC. FWIW, I run both my MC30s and my Inspire SEP amp directly from the variable output of an Oppo universal player (i.e., no preamp). (In both cases I could insert a McIntosh MX110Z pre-amp, but I prefer the “minimalist” approach whenever possible.) In both cases I have a subwoofer connected to the Oppo, which offloads the main amp and speakers. However, most music can be enjoyed without a sub (unless you want to hear and feel the lowest pedal notes of a pipe organ). My favorite tube combination in my Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO is Groove Tube Gold Series GT6L6GE 6L6GC (the Russian 6P3S-E is also excellent), Sylvania 5V4G (5AR4 is also good), and Amperex (Holland) 6DJ8. Of course, my results would not be relevant to you because I’m using Klipsch RF-7 II with my Inspire amp, while you are using Klipschorns. And we are likely listening to different types of music, at different levels, in rooms with different acoustics. And we probably have different preferences for which inevitable imperfections in sound quality we are willing to accept. With that said, the Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO is capable of excellent sound quality, and tube rolling can be a lot of fun … until it drives you crazy … Bottom line, I suggest owning both the MC30s and an Inspire amp. And then get an MC225 … Following is a list of my current systems. I mostly listen to classical and opera. SACDs, high-res FLAC from HDTracks, Blu-ray audio and video, and CDs. ------------------ Living room: Stereo speakers are Snell Type CV. Subwoofer: Klipsch P-312W. The source components are Oppo BDP-95 (with USB hard drive containing high-res FLAC recordings), and Dual 1249 with Stanton 681EE. Amps include a pair of McIntosh MC30s, Scott 296, McIntosh MX110 / McIntosh MC275, a pair of Pilot HF-56 mono receivers, an NAD pre-amp and Acurus A250 power-amp for movies, and a McIntosh 2155 driving JBL L830s in the kitchen / dining room. A patch panel (banana plugs) allows me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and a Niles AXP-1 RCA selector switch connects the Oppo to the amp. Chromecast Audio for internet radio and Spotify Premium. TV room: Stereo speakers are Klipsch Palladium P-37F. Subwoofer: Klipsch P-312W. The source is an Oppo BDP-105 (with USB hard drive containing high-res FLAC recordings). The amps are Scott 399, McIntosh MC225, Kenwood KR-9050, Fisher 800B, Fisher X-1000, Scott 299C, McIntosh MC240, and an NAD C375BEE. The tube amps are for music. The solid-state amps are for movies. A patch panel (banana plugs) allows me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and Niles AXP-1 RCA selector switches connect the Oppo to the amp. Chromecast Audio for internet radio and Spotify Premium. Office: Stereo speakers are JBL L880. Sources: Oppo DV-980H SACD/CD/DVD, and my Windows 10 laptop with Music Streamer II DAC. Amps: Fisher 500C, Scott 299B, Altec 353A, and an NAD D 3020 for general internet use (and summertime). Banana jacks allow me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and a Niles AXP-1 RCA selector switch connects the Oppo to the amp. Basement: Front, center, and left speakers are Klipsch RF-7 II. A single rear speaker is a Klipsch RF-7. Subwoofers: SVS SB16-Ultra, Klipsch R-115SW. Source: Oppo UDP-205 (with USB hard drive containing high-res FLAC recordings). Amps: Scott 272, Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO, Scott 222C, McIntosh MX110Z tuner/preamp, Fisher KX-200, Scott 296, Pilot SA-260, Scott LK150. A patch panel allows me to connect the speakers to whichever amp I want, and F/F RCA cables enable me to connect an amp to the Oppo, and a power amp to the MX110Z. Chromecast Audio for internet radio and Spotify Premium. Bedroom: The speaker is a single Klipsch WF-35. Source is an older CD player. Fisher TA 500 (AM/FM mono receiver). Chromecast Audio for internet radio and Spotify Premium.

Yes, I'm glad to own an " Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO". Speakers: RF-7II. My favorite tube compliment thus far: 6L6GC / 5V4G / 6DJ8. Tube rolling can be fun ... until you realize you've tried more than 100 combinations of tubes ... P.S. There is another forum with more than 4k posts about the Inspire SEP amps.

Emile, Now you're opening up 2 hotly debated topics in one thread: Hi-res vs. CD, and solid-state vs. tubes. You can read plenty about tubes vs. solid-state - so I won't address that here. (Where do you live? Perhaps you can listen to other forum members' systems.) I want to expand on something that I said earlier about Blu-ray videos. Today I received in the mail a box set of Blu-ray videos: "Rafael Frühbeck de Burgos Danish NSO”, which is a collection of recent performances captured in high-res audio and video and delivered on 3 Blu-ray discs: Ludwig van Beethoven: Symphonies Nos. 1–9 Joaquín Rodrigo: Concierto de Aranjuez Hector Berlioz: Symphonie fantastique, Op. 14 Richard Strauss: Eine Alpensinfonie (An Alpine Symphony), Op. 64, TrV 233 I see it’s available on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Beethoven-Danish-National-Symphony-Orchestra/dp/B01LX41LCB/ref=tmm_blu_swatch_0?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1508381521&sr=8-1-fkmr0 I’ve only briefly listened/watched today – I will watch the entire collection this winter. My point is that there are many Blu-ray video recordings of classical music, opera, and ballet. If you invest in a universal player, you can enjoy these, in addition to SACDs, CDs, and hi-res music downloads. (And, of course, watch movies.) Earlier this year, I decided to invest in multi-channel after assembling a “proof of concept” system by moving existing speakers into my basement system (where the main speakers must be widely spaced due to room layout). I used my Oppo’s multi-channel analog outputs into my existing tube amps. I listened to the following multi-channel SACD, and was mesmerized. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RPNPAU0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 After listening to several more multi-channel classical SACDs, plus several multi-channel Blu-ray operas, I concluded that multi-channel can be useful for classical music in an installation where the main LR speakers must be widely spaced. Even if you listen via 2.0 (i.e., stereo vs. multi-channel), I think an Oppo player is a worthwhile investment, because a wider range of recordings will be available to you. (And later you have the flexibility to add a subwoofer, and multi-channel.) And, you’ll be equipped to publish a post about the relative sound quality of the various formats.

Everyone's budget is different. Some regard $1300 as expensive, some think that the Oppo UDP-205 is the greatest bargain in hi-fi. You can play any digital audio or video recording with the UDP-205, and it has high quality built-in DACs, pre-amp, and bass management. (You could save a little by buying a used BDP-105 or BDP-95, and play everything except UHD video.) You hi-fi will never sound better than the quality of the recording, and the quality of the source component. (i.e., CD player or universal player). P.S. Don't forget Blu-ray video. Obviously opera, but also high quality Blu-ray video recordings of concerts.

A universal player that has analog outputs, such as the Oppo products. The Oppo UDP-205 has built-in "pre-amp" functionality, including selectable downmixing (e.g., 7.1, 5.1, 2.1, 2.0), bass management (i.e., configurable subwoofer crossover), and volume control. The previous BDP-105 and BDP-95 also have a lot of flexibility, but don't play UHD video. I just posted the following in another thread about using vintage stereo amps in a surround sound system. I prefer tube amps - but this would work with two vintage solid-state stereo amps. ------------------------------- I don't have an AVR or pre-processor. I have no interest in either. Based on 45 years as a hi-fi hobbyist, I’ve concluded that I like tube amps. I use the "pre-amp" functionality that is built into my Oppo UDP-205 universal player (and the 205’s high-quality DACs), and connect to two of my many tube amps in my basement system. (I also have a BDP-105 and BDP-95 in 2.1 systems.) I use the Oppo UDP-205’s 5.1 downmix setting for the surround-sound system in my basement. The Oppo 205’s “rear” connections that are used in a 5.1 configuration are labeled SL (Surround Left), and SR (Surround Right). As part of my investigation, I connected a stereo amp and speakers to the SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right), and heard little rear content (a small amount of “hall reverb”) - and little distinction between L&R - when listening to my multi-channel classical SACDs. I therefore I decided (at least for now) that I’m not missing much by combining the rear channels. Oppo has confirmed that there is no problem combining SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right) via a Y cable. (Yes – I’ve read the “Why not Y” article - however, for many years I’ve used a Y cable to combine stereo RCA line-level into mono, and had no problems.) Because there is so little rear channel content on 5.1 classical SACDs, combining the rear channels sounds OK to me. The left, center, and right speakers are identical (Klipsch RF-7 II). The rear is an earlier version of the same Klipsch speaker (RF-7). Subwoofer: I recently added an SVS SB16-Ultra (i.e., the sealed cabinet model). I also have a Klipsch R-115SW in this system. Following are the tube amps currently in my basement system. (I’ve “tube rolled” these amps in order to voice them for the speakers.) Scott 296 integrated amp, 7581 outputs (6L6GC equivalent) Scott 272 integrated amp, 6CA7 / EL34 Scott 222 integrated amp 7189 / EL84 Fisher KX-200 integrated amp 7591 McIntosh MX110Z tuner/preamp Scott LK150 power amp LK150 Pilot SA-260 power amp EL34 Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO power amp (single-ended pentode), currently equipped with 6L6GC (I can connect the power amps direct to the Oppo, or run them through the MX110Z stereo pre-amp.) One 2 channel amp drives the L&R speakers. A second 2 channel amp drives the center and the single rear speaker. I set levels (and tune) by ear. (I am not interested in letting software perform equalization.) Works great. Sounds great.

What types of music do you listen to? The best sounding recordings that I own are hi-res, such as 24/96 or 24/192 FLAC downloaded from HDTracks, SACD, and Blu-ray (audio and video). (Transcribing a CD to FLAC will NOT magically improve its quality.) IME CDs are also capable of excellent sound quality. (As others have pointed out, garbage in / garbage out - i.e., a hi-res deliverable won't fix a poor quality recording.) Only you can decide if hi-res FLAC downloads, SACD, and Blu-ray sound better to you. IMO, anyone who is serious about hi-fi should experiment for themselves. If you invest in a universal player (such as Oppo), you will be equipped to try all digital formats. FWIW, I've recently been exploring multi-channel SACDs and Blu-ray, and - in the right room - this can offer significant improvement vs. CDs - IMO. (I use an Oppo-205 directly connected to vintage tube amps.) Of course, an issue is whether or not multi-channel SACDs and Blu-ray audio recordings are available in the genre of music you like.

You can buy a brand new pair of RF-7II on eBay from an authorized dealer for $1800. A brand new pair of RF-7II that has minor cosmetic flaws from an authorized dealer for $1400. Only you can decide what a used pair of RF-7 is worth. I own both RF-7 and RF-7II. They're great speakers, if they meet your requirements.

Re: RF-7II - two words: tube amp Specifically, 6L6GC

In an average size room, listening at reasonable sound levels, 20wpc of tube power is ample for the RF-7II. You can see in my post above the list of tube amps that I use with my RF-7II. Even my 8wpc Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier delivers satisfying volume levels. OTOH, I have no experience with huge rooms, or listening at “ear-bleed” levels.

I think the Scott 299C is an excellent amp, and a great value. I have a 299C in my TV room system. (I own more than 2 dozen tube amps, in 5 different systems.) FWIW, my favorite integrated amp is the Scott 296. The Fisher X-1000 is also excellent. With that said, I could happily live with my 299C as my only amp. Craig is an excellent tech, and I highly recommend his professional services. I recently “upgraded” my basement system to multi-channel, employing vintage tube amps. I mostly listen to classical music and opera. Based on my observation that there is little content in the rear channels of multi-channel classical recordings (namely, natural hall sounds), I decided to combine the rear channels into a single channel. I use one vintage tube amp for front L&R, and a separate vintage tube amp for center and rear. My Oppo UDP-205 serves as a universal player, and effectively provides pre-amp functionality, including bass management. Patch cords allow me to quickly select which amps I want to play. If you want more information about how I use vintage tube amps for surround-sound, see below. ------------------------------- I don't have an AVR or pre-processor. I have no interest in either. Based on 45 years as a hi-fi hobbyist, I’ve concluded that I like tube amps. I use the "pre-amp" functionality that is built into my Oppo UDP-205 universal player (and the 205’s high-quality DACs), and connect to two of my many tube amps in my basement system. I use the Oppo UDP-205’s 5.1 down-mix setting. The Oppo 205’s “rear” connections that are used in a 5.1 configuration are labeled SL (Surround Left), and SR (Surround Right). As part of my investigation, I connected a stereo amp and speakers to the SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right), and heard little rear content (a small amount of “hall reverb”) - and little distinction between L&R - when listening to my multi-channel classical SACDs. I therefore I decided (at least for now) that I’m not missing much by combining the rear channels. Oppo has confirmed that there is no problem combining SL (Surround Left) and SR (Surround Right) via a Y cable. (Yes – I’ve read the “Why not Y” article - however, for many years I’ve used a Y cable to combine stereo RCA line-level into mono, and had no problems.) Because there is so little rear channel content on 5.1 classical SACDs, combining the rear channels sounds OK to me. The left, center, and right speakers are identical (Klipsch RF-7 II). The rear is an earlier version of the same Klipsch speaker (RF-7). Subwoofers: I recently added an SVS SB16-Ultra (i.e., the sealed cabinet model). I also have a Klipsch R-115SW in this system. (For most music, the RF-7II's don't need a sub.) Following are the tube amps currently in my basement system. (I’ve “tube rolled” these amps in order to voice them for the speakers.) Scott 296 integrated amp, 7581 outputs (6L6GC equivalent) Scott 272 integrated amp, 6CA7 / EL34 Scott 222 integrated amp 7189 / EL84 Fisher KX-200 integrated amp 7591 McIntosh MX110Z tuner/preamp Scott LK150 power amp LK150 Pilot SA-260 power amp EL34 Inspire “Fire Bottle” SE Stereo Tube Amplifier HO power amp (single-ended pentode), currently equipped with 6L6GC (I can connect the power amps direct to the Oppo, or run them through the MX110Z stereo pre-amp.) One 2 channel amp drives the L&R speakers. A second 2 channel amp drives the center and the single rear speaker. I set levels (and tune) by ear. (I am not interested in letting software perform equalization.) Works great. Sounds great.

Based on tube rolling my Inspire SEP amp, I like the Amperex 6DJ8, made in Holland. (This is used with 6L6GC, and 5V4G rectifier.)

My understanding is that the RP-280 is only available in polymer veneer (i.e., loosely speaking, cherry color or black color "vinyl"), whereas the RF-7II and RF-7III have real wood veneer.

First, let me begin by saying that I'm not a lawyer. Yesterday I had a crew of 8 guys (including 2 climbers) working WAY up in my trees trimming dead branches. The first question that I asked is whether or not they could provide a certificate showing that they have workman's comp insurance. I wasn't satisfied with their response, so I had them sign a Release of Liability (i.e., I'm not responsible for their injury or loss of life while performing the work, or traveling to and from my home).