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Emile

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Everything posted by Emile

  1. OK; reversed the phase as recommended below. Still hear no difference ... still sounds very good Quote from AVforums.com .... "One thing to consider is the position and orientation of your rear speakers. If you have your front speakers facing the rear wall of the room (normal configuration) and your REAR speakers facing the FRONT of the room, then then speaker are out of phase. In this situation, I would wire the rear channels in reverse polarity (amp(+) to rear speaker minus). That would make the front and rear speakers move in the same physical direction at the same time." Cheers, Emile
  2. Very good review. Lots of GREAT tips for prospective builders ... wish I had those tips 3 months ago Cheers, Emile
  3. Hi @LTusler ... very nice job, especially on the wiring! Congrats! And @Tarheel TJ ... same; awesome! Got myself a kit for last Xmas and like it (with my Forte's). Not sure it is any better than the Marantz it replaced, but the tubes are not "burned in yet. (Have been playing in my TV room with new AVR's, amps and KPT904's ) Here's mine Cheers, Emile
  4. Thanks! Yes; "playing" some more. Just no clue why stereo over multiple speakers is supposed to be "BAD." Cheers, Emile
  5. @wuzzzer , many thanks! never even thought about the different sound settings on the AVR ... duh Yes; switching to 2 channel stereo increases the output to the rear a bit but still have to "crank it up." So; this setup would be the same as using my zone 2 output, but still controlled by the AVR's volume. Therefore, still think "zone 2" is the best solution. Just concerned how "BAD" front PLUS rear stereo sounds Cheers, Emile
  6. Hoping to get some suggestions/advise on my rear speaker setup "TV room" measures about 15 x 25 ft ... one side and half of the rear is open to a 30 x 40 ft room. Currently use an Onkyo AVR TX-ZR810 in a 7.1 setting with Klipsch speakers front/center/side/rear. (Rear speakers "were" linked wireless to AVR's rear speaker output.) AVR's zone 2 is linked to a Marantz 2252B with KPT904 speakers. (Got this Onkyo a month ago because it transfers HDMI inputs to zone 2.) Got the Pro KPT904's a couple of months ago and they replaced my "front" Cornwall's. So; moved my Cornwall's to the rear and then decided the wireless connection just wasn't very good Therefore, got a Yamaha CR-620 as a "rear" amp ... sounds very nice with the Cornwall's using the tuner and a temporary cd player. Of course ran wires (across my attic, etc) and used "rear" pre-outs from my AVR to the Yamaha. Barely any sound at all Learned that the "pre-out" volume is controlled by the AVR ... and not "fixed" as I thought. So, at low/medium AVR volume levels have very little rear output and I have to crank the Yamaha up to max (making the sound distorted). Even tried raising the "rear" levels by 12dB in the AVR, but still not enough volume (Plus I break my windows when I forget to change the volume as I switch to "tuner.") Playing around, I split the "zone 2" (set to fixed) signal to go to both my front Marantz amp AND (reversed) to the Yamaha. Only tried it with a couple of records, but think it sounds awesome ... and "full" volume. Guess I can reset my AVR to 5.1 and use this "4 speaker" stereo setup. But, a google search generally shows 4-speaker stereo as a very "BAD idea." Interference, waves cancelling/adding gives poor stereo sound. Well; it sounded good to me; did not hear interference in my short test. Maybe I do not get interference because I am using different amps (vs A/B from one amp) and a 40ft wire run ??????? Appreciate your inputs. Many, many thanks! Cheers, Emile
  7. Yes; that stuff is great (if your speakers are in decent condition). Used it on many vintage Klipsch speakers. Cheers, Emile
  8. Just bought a pair to check it out Was very disappointed when I got it today ... looked like aluminum wire Then I found your post stating it is (oxygen free) copper wire - TIN plated. Whoopie! Thanks, Emile
  9. I got a Music Hall USB-1 for $100 off eBay for my living room ... upgraded the cartridge to an Ortofon Red and think it is pretty good. (Do not "spin" that much.) Actually it's better than my $500 Thorens TD115 in my stereo room Cheers, Emile
  10. Emile

    KP-450

    Dave ... yes; totally agree. Got a pair of KPT904's (think they are very similar to the 450's) a month ago and they blow away my Cornwall's (which I am using as "rears" now). The dual 15" woofers are awesome ... took them "out" and they are about twice as heavy as my Cornwall woofers And the horns ... OMG ... the diaphragm is 4 times larger than the ones in the "residential series" (haha). Cheers, Emile
  11. Yeah ... tried Even contacted some sellers that had badges (with speakers attached). Of course no-one wanted to take them off Cheers, Emile
  12. Hi All, Recently got a pait of KPT-904's (see thread "Klipsch Professional KPT-904" ). Fixed the cases with Duratex paint from parts-express.com and added "heritage cloth" grills. They look very nice (also took off the horn and made a separate cabinet for it), but the sound is absolutely AWESOME! But ... would love to "finish" them properly by adding Klipsch Professional badges as below. (Or similar ones without the red stripes.) Yes, tried via Klipsch but "nothing." Many, many thanks! Cheers, Emile
  13. John, Welcome and congrats! That room is WAY TOO BIG for just one pair of LaScalas Now that you are "hooked," may I suggest adding some Klipsch Professional Cinema speakers I just got a pair of KPT-904's - pretty cheap; $800 - and those would add nicely to your setup (NO; NOT selling them ) Cheers, Emile
  14. Wish you had not done this (ceiling speaker) Got a bunch of new ideas now ... and I'm sure my wife will NOT like them Cheers, Emile
  15. Great! Glad I could help Cheers, Emile
  16. Hate to tell you ... also got an Oppo 980 this morning Tried it on My Marantz 2252B and KPT-904's. Awesome ... much better than my cheap 6-disk changer. But the 6-disk is sooo convenient ... wish someone made a hifi version OK; back to hooking stuff up. Cheers, Emile
  17. @vasubandu ... same here, but just could not live with the "minimal" display on the Marantz. So; got an Onkyo TX-RZ810 ( and new from Crutchfield at the same price as a refurb from A4less ). Just arrived Will be hooking up wires for the rest of the day Cheers, Emile
  18. Jeez ... guess I lost out ... Got some 904's and LOVE the Klipsch pro sound.
  19. You are welcome Actually, got lucky ... found a "flat rate PMail box" in my closet ... printed a label and the Postman picked it up Thanks for the payment and the extra "glass of wine." Cheers, Emile
  20. HDMI's in for BluRay, 6 cd/dvd changer, Oppo CD, Chromecast, Roku, PC, etc. Yeah; will "play" with it to see what I can transfer to zone2. just disappointed by the internet advice from :experts" - especially since I ripped out my old cabinet to extend it to make room for this "deeper" AVR. Cheers, Emile
  21. Almost Yeah, bought the Onkyo TX-RZ810 as EVERYONE told me it would "transfer" HDMI inputs to zone2 (my outboard Marantz 2252B with 904 speakers). Just finished reading the small print in the manual ... ONLY HDMI inputs 1-3 are transferred to zone2 . Disappointed Oh well; 5pm here, will open a bottle of wine Cheers, Emile
  22. Question ... just got a new AVR which can run 5.2.2. (And think I can live with 5.1 since I have an outboard Marantz 2252B with KPT-904's ) But ... room is about 14 x 24ft with one side (and half the rear) open to a 25 x 35ft great room. To make it more complicated, one side of the room (about 5ft - long side) has 8ft flat ceilings ... the other side is "slanted cathedral." And if I understand @johnnydrama correctly, Atmos either "bounces of the ceiling" or is "direct" using ceiling speakers. But obviously cannot use "ceiling speakers." So, am I screwed by my room configuration or is there a way to incorporate Atmos? Many thanks! Cheers, Emile
  23. OK; I'm the idiot that (temporarily) used oxidized ( slightly GREEN) speaker wire. Checked closer and it was really bad Replaced the wire and now were back to normal. Next the question arises re connectors. On screw type connectors I use either banana plugs or the wire itself - don't think there is a difference. On older vintage equipment (spring type) I normally just use the wire itself ... but for ease of switching, there are "pin type" connectors. But ... the pin type connector only barely "connects" to the spring clip (versus the bare wire which gets "crunched" by the spring clip making for a better connection - ???). Am I crazy or ? Appreciate your comments. Cheers, Emile
  24. And replied. Just let me know where to ship them to and you can pay for the postage later. Cheers, Emile
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