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HDBRbuilder last won the day on October 24 2019

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About HDBRbuilder

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  1. KBMR...the MR stands for Mahoghany "raw", meaning no finish applied.
  2. Those were built a couple of months before I left in 1983, So it is HIGHLY LIKELY that I built them..
  3. These were from an auction?? Which auction??
  4. I trained Terry Willis how to build Heresy and Cornwall speakers MANY YEARS AGO!
  5. "OD" is Ola Mae Davis....she sanded your speaker cabs. I actually had Ola Mae sand one of my "flame twins" HDBL's when I built them....the other one was sanded by Frances...they were best friends and the best sanders in the sanding room...so each one of them got to sand one of my pair. Builder initials and sander initials were stamped into the rear edge of the side panel within an inch or so of the top of that panel. The panel this was done on was, as you face the rear of the speaker, the side panel to your left. Because the sanders, especially on the birch plywood versions of the speakers, had to ensure that the rear edges of those panels were smooth without any tiny voids showing...they slathered the rear edges all around with a thinned down woof filler...using a putty knife. Once that dried and set up, the sanded the rear edges of the cabinets. So, in doing this, the stamped-in builder initial(s) often got filled with that putty, and were sometimes even sanded off, especially if they had not been stamped-in deep enough! So, it is sometimes difficulty to find the builder initials because they tend to be filled with putty and/or not very prominent....as compared to the sander initials. Everything else that was stamped into the speaker rear edges, was done in final assembly: "USA" the serial number, and such. When the move to MDF panels came along, the stamping of the rear edges ended, due to the stamping causing swelling of the MDF substrate on the rear edges.
  6. This particular label says: LSBR, SN 17S468. Those shipped raw (meaning no finish on the birch plywood)...but somebody obviously filled-in with wood putty where the serial numbers were originally stamped, then painted over the sanded rear edge. All you need to do is take some acetone on a rag and gently wipe that plywood edge until the stamped-in serial numbers show up....they will be filled with wood putty, but should be easy to make out. You probably don't even need to buy the acetone, because that is what finger-nail polish remover actually is....so if you have a significant other, then borrow a bit of hers. This speaker was built in 1978.
  7. You can get plasti-dip in gallon-sized or smaller cans, too...which is what I would recommend, and just take a paint brush and apply it....that way you get a thicker coating for the outside of the horn lens...with the added advantage that yu can ALSO apply a thin even coat to the face of the mounting flange of the horn lense in order to achieve a better seal to the motor-board when re-attaching it. As for the thickness of the coating, it doesn't NEED to be very thick, just enough to cover the surface completely in a relatively even coating. After all, you are JUST needing to damp any "ringing" possibilities in the metal of the horn to begin with, and it really doesn't require much to do that to begin with....you can actually take a coupe of latex rubber gloves and wrap them around the horn and achieve the same thing! People tend to over-do everything on this forum, which is totally ridiculous, IMHO!
  8. Has anybody tried this yet? https://www.maperformance.com/products/plasti-dip-matte-black-rubber-coating-11203?variant=7525559747&msclkid=079ef8155bc61b6ca9b6a63c0dcdcb84 This seems to be one of the best ways of damping a metal horn lens from its outside....just spray its outside down with solvent grade ether (Birchwood-Casey's "gun scrubber"...can be found in Wally World gun cleaning section) to clean its outside surface and remove anything which may keep this from sticking....then after that dries, use this stuff....too easy! You're welcome!😉
  9. There is ABSOLUTELY NO NEED to remove the grille cloth to determine if these have the "perforated metal grilles" installed. You can see that by opening the driver/network access panel at the speaker rear, instead! These are actually called the "Industrial Heresy Motor-boards". Having grille cloth on these most likely means that it was added after purchase....but the similarity to the way the grille cloth is mounted to what was done to accomplish this at the factory makes me think that this may have been due to a specific customer request for cloth grille cloth installation. Underneath of the grille cloth, you will likely find that these originally had Industrial Heresy motor-boards installed. The Industrial Heresy motor-boards consisted of a piece of approximately 1/2" Baltic birch plywood, with the woofer outline routed out of its center, and with a metal (aluminum) grille stapled to it. The Industrial motor-board also had holes drilled in it to use the wood screws to attach it to the rear of the regular motor-board, with the stapled-on grille to the front of the industrial; motor-board. Additionally, the industrial motor-board has T-nuts installed in order to mount the woofer directly to it using machine screws. In order to ensure that the industrial Heresy motor-board sealed its metal-grille to the regular Heresy motorboard….prior to final assembly (usually the afternoon beforehand), a bead of black silicon caulk was run around the face of the grille, in a radius slightly larger than the radius of the woofer opening in the industrial motorboard and atop the metal grille (which had already been installed and painted black most often). After this bead of caulk set-up over-night, it served as a pliable (as in squashable) gasket to ensure the sealing of the industrial motor-board's face to the cabinet motor-board....basically sealing the cabinet air-tight (more-or-less) at the front. If you ever open up the access panel on these it is readily apparent that the woofer is attached to the industrial motor-board using machine screws, while the industrial motor-board, itself is attached to the cabinet motor-board using wood screws….but to actually see the silicone caulk gasket on the face of the metal grille would most likely require your removal of that industrial motor-board from the cabinet motor-board to understand what I described. I would advise against that because removing it may break the seal from that caulk and cause it to not seal back properly again. Installation of the Industrial Heresy motor-boards actually reduced the interior volume of the cabinet a bit, but not enough, as PWK would say, to "make a dime's worth of difference" in its performance.😉 You might ask "how do I know all of this?" I had Industrial Heresy Motor-boards installed by Gwin Cox in final assembly a few weeks after I first took my "flame twins" HDBL's home...due to an "overly curious" adopted cat I had to deal with at home...its curiosity was about to end up with my woofer cones being mauled by its claws...pretty simple! I had no desire for "curiosity to kill the cat", since it was a great "mouser" in the raggedy house I was residing in at the time!
  10. If you LOOK CLOSELY at this pic, it SEEMS to show the bottom of a label on the rear of the bass horn....just below the top panel of that bass horn., Providing the information or, better yet, a good pic of that label will actually answer your question as to year of production much better than a general time frame for its manufacture date.
  11. I've been out of the loop for about a month….so bringing WHERE and WHEN?
  12. "Inspected by" signature line was actually the person in final assembly who installed the drivers/horn-lenses and networks into the speaker cabinets, then closed up the cabinets prior to them being tested.
  13. Just face the rear of the speaker cabinet, then look at the rear edge of the side panel to your left....up around one inch below the joint with the top panel, there...and there should be one or more initials stamped into the plywood edges there....if the letter "A" is one of those letters, then I built the cabinet. One or moe of those initials will also be stamped in deeper, and those are the initials of the sander of the speaker cabinet. They really AREN'T stamped in "deeper" but were stamped in after the sander finished sanding the speaker...which makes them APPEAR to have been stamped in deeper. The builder code letters were often filled in with wood putty prior to sanding the rear edges, and then sanded down so much that they are difficult to discern....so look hard to find them.
  14. I was highly likely the builder of both of these HBR speakers.
  15. I agree...nice looking cabinet...that gold-toned upper heat vent should be a dead give-away along with its trapezoidal shape...for somebody who is familiar with cabinets that have those features. Marantz used a trapezoidal shape there, on SOME of their stuff...but not gold-toned grille...and most of their vents went all the way to the rear of the case, IIRC!...but were black....again, IIRC! The front inside perimeter dimensions are key to what went into it, for sure!
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