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  1. Hello, I'm salvaging the driver from a KSW10 down-firing sub. I'm building a new box and am looking for the tech specs on the driver itself to calculate port size and box volume. The driver has "KSW 10" and "TS-S8A17" on it and I can't find any info on the driver. Specifically, I'm looking for Qts, Vas, and Fs values. Thanks!
  2. NEED HELP, have this klipsch sub 10 subwoofer, Trynna get it to connect to my edifier R1280db. Dont have a receiver just a whole lotta RCA cables, Let me know! Also I'm on a PC I tried connecting it but it just comes out with no sub just the speakers make noise
  3. Hi all, I’m looking to buy klipsch c-310aswi sub but it looks like you can find a lot you tube reviews of a lot of klipsch subs and speakers but not this particular one. Is there a reason for that ? is the sub discontinued or something? there are just very few videos mansions it and that's it.
  4. So, I’ve had a lovely surround set up with some reference premiere speakers for about 6 months now. Tonight, a very courageous young house mouse decided to brave the teeth and claws of my two cats and invade my kitchen. In the course of the chase it ran in the general direction of my SPL-150 subwoofer and is currently MIA. While my furry security system continues to hunt the home invader, do I need to worry about it running into the space at the bottom of the subwoofer and causing havoc on the inside? I didn’t see it run in there, but it would have been possible and I can’t tell if that space connects to the rest of the internals of the speaker or not. For those of you who have disassembled these speakers, do I have anything to worry about? Thanks in advance.
  5. Hello guys I just got my speakers Could you please help me with the settings at my AVR and subwoofer I got -> 5.1.2 ______________________________ RP-600M - RP-600C - RP-502S RP-500SA R-112SW ______________________________ At SUB- 1: I can choose between phase 0 and 180 - the subwoofer is in the mid -> frontL - Sub - Center - frontR 2:What freq should I go at Low-Pass? 3:btw my center is on my subwoofer - is that a problem ? ____________________________________ my AVR is Denon now I go to Speakers - Manual Setup - Crossovers: 4:What should I choose there it starts at 40hz next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Bass There I got 5:Subwoofer Mode : I can choose LFE - or LFE + Main 6:LPF for LFE : starts with 80hz - 250hz next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Speakerconfig 7:there I got the possibility to change the speakers to large - got them at small - is that good? next menu point: Speakers - Manual Setup - Amp Assign 8:what Dolby Atmos mode should I chose - what's the best one - or where should I put my Atmos speakers I can take /Front Height / Front Dolby / Surround Dolby next menu point: Audio - Audyssey 9:MultEQ XT ; should I choose there Reference or Flat? thanks alot for reading best wishes
  6. I´ve been looking at said KG SW on ebay for some weeks now and i have some questions to once/still owners. I would team up that sube with my KG 1.5s and a Yamaha A-S201. Does that sound like a worthwhile idea? Another idea would be to use it with my Heresys, once those are done, but i also have a Yamaha active sub i was planing to use for the Hs. To be honest, maybe i´m just intriuged by the fact that the SW belongs to the KG line, looking at the pictures it leaves a good impression and it´s fairly cheap, sub and shipping about 160€. So, what are Your opinions?
  7. is there a way to create a piezocrystal subwoofer that can hit 1hz or lower?
  8. For the same price, which is better? It's for my bedroom, my set up is two r-51m and a r-52 in front and two r-41m as rear speakers. I appreciate any help.
  9. Hey guys. So i have been looking at the Klipsch C-310ASWi. I don't remember reading anything about it here though. Doesn't anyone have a couple of these? I am quite interested in hearing your thoughts about them. I have a hard time deciding between these and SVS. I just really want to stick with Klipsch you know. Any input will be appreciated.
  10. Behringer Eurolive B212XL 800-Watt 2-Way PA Speaker System - Built to go on the road. 2 like new B212XLs in the original boxes used for a temporary home theater set up - $210 for both. I picked them up while waiting for my stuff to be delivered and used them a few months in the house. From the manufacturer: High-power 2-way PA sound reinforcement speaker system for live and playback applications (200 Watts Continuous / 800 Watts Peak Power) Ultra-compact and lightweight system delivers excellent sound even at extreme sound pressure levels Extremely powerful 12'' long-excursion driver provides incredibly deep bass and acoustic power State-of-the-art 1.75'' titanium-diaphragm compression driver for exceptional high-frequency reproduction Ultra-wide dispersion, large-format exponential horn Overload-protection circuitry ensures optimal HF driver protection Versatile trapezoidal enclosure design allows different positioning: - Stand mounting with 35-mm pole socket - Tilts on its side for use as a floor monitor Ergonomically shaped handles for easy carrying and setup 2 professional speaker connectors plus ¼'' jack connectors High-quality components and exceptionally rugged construction ensure long life Conceived and designed by BEHRINGER Germany Even Better Than Before These loudspeakers take everything musicians love about the original B212 loudspeakers and upgrade them with the same bass and treble/mid transducers found in our wildly popular B212A passive version for even better sound and power handling. And with integrated overload protection circuitry, they arrive ready to push it to the limit without putting their high or low frequency drivers in danger. Triumphant Transducers Every stitch of these loudspeakers is built to deliver, but the fact is that their transducers (woofers and tweeters) are the only part you actually hear. While some manufacturers are okay with putting off-the-shelf transducers in their boxes, we custom-design and build ours from scratch. Not only do we wind our own voice coils, we grow the trees that are processed into the paper pulp that becomes the cones. We even machine the frames and backplates. BEHRINGER's quality is truly under control. Big Sound, Lightweight, Low Price Big here, small there, lots of this, light on that - everyone's got their preferences, but the EUROLIVE B212XL has proportions we can all agree upon. These loudspeakers pack a clean, punchy wallop (and can handle up to 800 Watts), they are easy to lift by their recessed handles (24 lbs) and are available at insanely low prices. Who wouldn't want to hook up with one of these beauties? Get on the Stick...or Get on Down The B212XL is perfect either as part of a PA system or as an onstage monitor. If the situation calls for a PA, mount the speakers on stands via the 35mm pole socket. From there, send a line from the MAIN OUT of a mixer (such as a XENYX 1202FX) to a power amplifier (like the EUROPOWER EP1500). Finally, attach a B212XL to each of the amp's outputs. These loudspeakers have inputs for both professional speaker cable and ¼" cable. Because they have two parallel inputs, you can connect up to two of them to any channel on a power amp. But these loudspeakers don't have to be confined to an upright position. Just lay them on their sides for use as a floor monitor. You'll find that they tilt to the ideal angle for onstage monitor wedge applications. They also make swiveling wall-mount brackets for the B212XL. For more pics - info https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/B212XL--behringer-eurolive-b212xl-800w-12-inch-passive-speaker
  11. Hi! I've recently added a klipsch sub (r-115sw) to my home audio system, and I was wondering wether to plug my sub and amp though LFE or a RCA Y-splitter. I mainly use my system for music and in regards to that, i've heard differing statements. Some say LFE is the best option for movies and RCA the best option for music. Others even say that for an untrained ear like mine, I wouldn't even notice the difference between LFE and RCA. So what i'm asking is, if my main use for my system is listening to music, should I connect my sub and amp through LFE or RCA? If any of you have any suggestions as to what cable would be good/compatible with my sub, I would be grateful. Thanks!
  12. I bought this from Amazon 08-26-2018. I can provide a receipt if requested. It is in great condition and was hardly used. Will ship in original box and packing. will ship for $35.00 UPS SOLD
  13. The wife is tired of my insanity. My Belles are up for sale and so is my DIY subwoofer and amp. The amp is about 3 months old (Crown XLS2002) and the subwoofer box is about the same. The two Dayton HF15 drivers are about a year old. It all works swimmingly and will melt your eyeballs and earholes. I'm asking $500 for everything. The crown amp is $500 new, the drivers are $172 a piece new. If you just want the drivers and the amp I can ditch the box. I'm in Northern CA. Would prefer local pickup but am willing to discuss shipping.
  14. KevinM

    RSB-14

    Kinda thinkin maybe I can pair a 2nd 8" sub from anothe rsb-14 so I have 2 subs workin together, paired through wi-fi, soooo lookin for a 8" sub from the rsb-14, dont need the sound bar tho.
  15. Hello Community, I have the sw-450 subwoofer and we just moved in to a new place so it's time to setup and recal everything, and I'm at a loss for the sub setup. My receiver has an auto-setup function with a listener mic, but how should I set the nobs on the sub? Should I be bypassing? Volume? I've seen a lot of mixed information, and I've even seen the "just experiment until it sounds good" suggestion. Can anyone give me a definitive answer? The rest of my setup is from the Icon series, so kf-28's in the front, ks-14's surround, kc-25 center channel. Pioneer Elite vsx-40 receiver. Thanks!
  16. Looking for alittle help on what subs I should get that will go best with my Jubilee's for music. I went and listened to a table tuba with a 8' sub today and it sounded kinda flabby. It seemed more of a movie sub than music. The bigger version with the 15' might be another story or just more of what I heard. I want a sub that has fast- tight kick drum bass and I'm willing to give up alittle bottom end for better chest thump. Right now I am considering these: Tuba THT low profile. Danley dts-10 Danely spud JTR Orbit shifter Will consider any other DIY builds that might do the job. Appreciate any advise. Thanks, Mike.
  17. I'm not expecting any specific answers here, just a general inquiry if members here are aware of SVS sales, such as BlackFriday/Holiday sales...? I'm looking to buy the PB-1000, I realize for some people here $500 is pocket change and they'd say, "Just buy the thing already!". But for me, that's a considerable purchase and if I could wait a few months and save $100 or so it's something to think about. I figure it's a company that kinda sticks to it's prices? I know there is an outlet section, but the PB-1000 rarely is for sale in there, which is a good sign in my opinion. So, is anyone aware of SVS sales on their own site? I say that because I know they will go up on sale in B&M stores near me, but that voids the Bill of Rights that SVS provides. I want that 45-day trial, and the 1 year trade in offer, and the 5 year warranty. SVS reps tell me none of that applies (perhaps the 5 year warranty is still valid) if I purchase from a retailer. They set their own policies and don't have to adhere to anything SVS suggests. Thanks all!
  18. Ok, new thread... You've all convinced me I should get a sub. You've also convinced me I do not have entry level gear and I should work on refining my current setup once the sub is hooked up... I think I've narrowed down to either the SVS SB1000 or PB1000. I love that they offer 45-day trials on their equipment - true testament to quality? I also realize that offering such a service means you are paying for it somewhere... For those who do not need to trial the sub, they may think these subs are overpriced. I will likely buy one in the coming month or two. I know I can just pick one and if it doesn't work out I can return it and get the other one. But which should I try first? Ideally I will be happy with the first purchase and not have to return it. That will keep the buyer and seller the happiest! So, here's my breakdown: RB-35s as mains RC-62 center RS-52 surrounds The room is 19x15' with 12' vaulted gable ceilings. There is a 6' opening to the room by the kitchen and the TV sits adjacent to this wall (so on the 13' side). I'd say 50% is video games, 25% movies/shows, 25% music. If I'm missing some info to help the decision let me know. So, ported or sealed? I know there are personal preferences and I should test them out myself. And I plant to. But should one first over the other? It's like test driving a car... Do you hop right into the Turbo model or do you drive the eco first? I'm leaning towards the sealed sub based on reviews saying it's "punchier" and "cleaner". I don't want to piss off the neighbors, we just bought the house! haha. But I want to round out the sound my system is currently outputting.
  19. As the title reads: I know nothing about subs... My current setup as of yesterday - Fronts: RB-35 Center: RC-62 Surrounds: RS-52 Now, the hardest part is going to be convincing my wife that we NEED a sub... Whether this is true or not, she will not likely be receptive to spending another $300+ after I just picked up these RS-52 surrounds for $220 this week... So. Who is willing to educate me? Here is what I want to know: - Will a sub really make a difference? (my guess is yes, it will) - I can probably get away with buying a Polk PSW10 on Amazon (under $100), but is it really worth it? Better than nothing at all? - Ideally, what's the sub to help round-out my system? (I'm assuming RSW10 or RSW15 would be the suggestions?) - Assuming my budget cannot allow the two subs mentioned above ^, what's the "next best thing" - doesn't have to be Klipsch, but preferrably... More questions about subs in general: What's the typical lifespan of a sub for HT? I'm guessing most people just leave them on 24/7? Or is this something you turn on only when playing certain movies, games, albums,etc.? Do you leave the sub on when watching the news? I am happy with my current setup. I'm waiting to pick up the RS-52s this weekend so I'll get them mounted and see how that changes the sound in my room. I'm at a 5.0 setup. Moving forward I think a 5.1 would make sense. I just need to "feel" the difference, and have a little help here with justifying the purchase! Cheers all!
  20. Need some advice on how to setup outdoor speakers 2x AW-650 2x AW-400 CA-800TSW (150w 6ohm) Sony STR-DN840 (7x150w @ 6ohm) Only have the 650s hooked up right now and they sound great. Should I get a simple 2x100w amplifier to power the passive sub? Noob to home speakers so any advice or a simple typed out diagram should help.
  21. Hi I do not find information about the technical specifications of the Klipsch sixes, I need to know if the amplifier is class AB? What sensitivity do they have? Which sub would be the best to use with the Sixes? Is the amplifier with FET circuits? Thank's Salva
  22. Hi everyone, I'm interested in upgrading my system to R-15PM monitors with a small sub. I would like to listen to high-res audio-files mainly through my Computer/the R-15PM's integrated DAC but I can't find any information on what the dac is capable of. As the speakers will be placed in a small room, I wonder whether the R-10SW is big enough as a sub or if the R-12SW is a very big step up. Thanks in advance for your answers, Tim TL;DR: What are the specs of the R-15PM's DAC? How big is the difference between R-10 and R12 subs?
  23. Downsizing my collection so this is up for sale. It's a 15" Klipsch woofer (I'm not sure which model) in a custom built box made of MDF and Walnut Veneer. It's ported and the box is pretty well made (made by a local carpenter). Has a very high WAF as well since it doesn't look crazy and has a nice wood grain on all sides. Also included to complete your setup, is a HSU Research Model 500 Amplifier. It's has 500 watts and can be configured to your unique set up with multiple hookup options. I do have the original box for this. In addition, I have the following crossover chips included: 34hz, 51hz, 75hz, and 62hz (not pictured as its installed in the amp). Bass on this setup is great. Very deep, low, musical with plenty of power to rock the whole house if you so desire. Amp alone was $500 and sub and box w/ sub could easily fetch $200. I'm selling the whole setup for $350. Due to size and weight of sub and box only local pickup in Santa Clara, CA (40 minutes south of San Francisco). It's also set up so you can come audition in my home. Message me your number if you are interested.
  24. Greetings all, Seeking consensus regarding using a high pass or full range for my subwoofer. Two different techs at the subwoofer manufacturer garnered two different responses. McIntosh rep says high pass. Seems to me on a "common sense" level that filtering all that signal through the sub , then back to the main amp would degrade that "McIntosh sound". Thank you in advance. I don't know much but I'm learning. System: McIntosh MA5200 100 watt Heresy III speakers SBS SB-2000 500 watt, 1100 peak
  25. I have the Promedia 2.1 (the one with the power switch and transformer) system for my PC. I have had for some time now. My absolute favorite speaker. I had a couple of issues in the past that I repaired like Din plug and scratchy volume. Several months ago, I was listening to some music at a high volume. After 45 minutes, I noticed that only one speaker was working and could not hear the sub. I checked the speakers and they were fine. Opened up the sub and found a blown fuse on the HF amp. Now HF speakers work fine but the sub is very low in volume even though the adjustment on the pod is all the way up. I checked the sub and it is not blown. Measures good and tested with another audio source. Connected another sub in place and still had low volume. When I looked at the LF amp, I could see that the board was very discolored due to heat. I removed the board and found R16 and R17 to be loose. I then cleaned up the solder pads and reinstalled the resistors. I checked the fets and they seemed to be ok. I checked all the other parts for bad joints. Didn't notice any components to be damaged. I was wondering if there was a service manual for the original Promedia 2.1 (the one with the power switch and transformer)? Does anyone know why the audio would be very low? Thanks boB
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