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  1. Hello all, this is my first post to the forum. I recently acquired my first set of quality stereo speakers … in an unusual form factor: klipsch heresy wedge monitors , HIE crossovers. All original. 3743 and 3745 k-42-EV k-55-M k-77-M I got them for a deal , one works great… the other worked great for a moment… it started cutting out at lower volumes , and distorting at higher . At first I thought it could be failing caps , but I’ve read some good feedback on removing the zener diodes from circuit. I’ll be trying that today unless I am advised not to here . i am so eager to get these going , I’m sure the information is out there but I thought I’d make this post and see if one of you more knowledgeable people could point me in the right direction and get this going faster than I could researching between jobs. if I could retain the original caps by removing the zener diodes from circuit that would be ideal. If not I’ll probably recap both speakers and sell the original caps that test in spec. Yes I know it will eventually need to be recapped but they are expensive , especially for the HIE one. additionally - I want to use these for home stereo use mostly, so the boxes should go. Yes it is sad separating these drivers from their original cases … but to any of the offended I’ll say this : there’s nothing more fitting for these than an act of heresy. i am 24 and pretty tight w money so I’ll probably use a cheaper wood just to get them going and rehaul the project again in later years . i see some talk about converting HIE crossovers to AA style . If anyone could speak to the advantages of this - it is unclear to me as of now. I can’t have opinions about what style I prefer since I haven’t heard them. And I am still learning about what a “super heresy” is. Since I’ll be building new boxes for these , anything is possible . I’ll definitely need to implement some more low end eventually , whether that be the traditional separate sub, port, or something more innovative. I’ll be selling the wedge monitor boxes , if I could do this to fund the materials for building new boxes that would be great… I don’t have much room for storage . If anyone wanted to give any thoughts of what the boxes are worth , or the speakers as a whole , I can’t find much price references within recent years . Inflation moves fast these days . anyways , I’m normally hesitant to jump into forums but this one seems great from what I’ve seen . Excited to be here hope you have a great day.
  2. Hi All, I need your assistance. I have purchased Heresys IV two weeks ago and I am looking to upgrade my amlpifier as well. So I am looking for a solid state (maybe hybrid?) to power them. Budget 2000 USD more or less. As you know in this price range there are hundrets of not bad amps on the market and after tons of hours reading on internet I decided to ask here, where people know a bit more on Klipsches pairing. I got my long list already to demo, but I would like shorten this to 3 amps. So any recommendations very highly appreciated. Till now I would think about: 1 Vincent (not sure which one SV 500, 227 MK, or 237MK) 2 Rogue Audio Sphinx V3 (a bit pracey and hard to demo where I live) 3 Unison Research Simply Italy (I have demoed it and I think it is a bit weak on bass, and it is all valve which I do not want becouse of many reasons, placement etc) I think that something which helps H4s slightly in the lower end but not losing the mids and highs is something I look for. ...Easy Thanks P
  3. Hello everyone, I got the opportunity to buy two pair of Heresy II speakers after they had been stored for 10 years. I'm most likely the second owner of these speakers and really curious to know how old they are. I did have a look on the serial number guide on this community but couldn't figure it out based upon the numbers that I have. Hoping somebody could give me some assistance. Thanks in advance. Pair #1: P/N 09000351210 S/N 280040 and 280041 W/O 4980 Pair #2: S/N: 293297714 and 293297715 Notes: - Pair #1 has older looking paper serial number notes on the back with some nails. - Pair #2 has coated (paper) woofers
  4. Hey guys, stumbled on a pair of H700 Heresy's at an antieque shop while on vacation. What's the going rate on these: 1966 model. They work well, but the cane grills and enclosures are a little beat up. The logos look good. Should I buy them?
  5. I'm feeling committed to this pair of Heresy II's i found used recently. For those that have experience with the ALK universal economy crossover upgrade - does anyone have some guidance to share that will help me optimize / tune these? How have you specifically tuned the crossover & what was the sonic difference?? I'm holed up all winter, so would like some guidance as I play with these. Thank you & Happy New Year!
  6. What's the appeal of the LaScala vs. the Heresy? I mean, according to the current spec sheet, the LaScala doesn't play much lower (58 vs. 51Hz.). Sure; it's more efficient, but I can turn up the volume on my Heresy's and get the same result. Does the extra efficiency add a new dimension in sound? Does that 7Hz really make a difference? Does the horn loaded woofer have a different coloration than the Heresy direct drive woofer? I'm not criticizing the LaScala. I'm actually intrigued by it and wonder what I might be missing, although it would never fit in my room and my neighbors would probably mutiny.
  7. **New to the Forum** - I just purchased a pair of early 80's Heresys in great cosmetic condition. I was introduced to Klipsch at an early age because I grew up in a house with my dad's 70's Cornwalls. A few year's back, I had a 10" Reference Series sub gifted to me and I was impressed with it's bass output - especially paired with my cheaper JBL shelf system that I had at the time. I was very excited to find the Heresys in my local area, so I scooped them up since I am setting up (from scratch) a new system for my condo. I purchased a Denon AVR-S510BT receiver (700W) and hooked up the Heresys this evening, and I must say, I was extremely disappointed in the bass output. I have searched forums on here, and I have also read reviews on other sites, and it's clear that low end on the Heresys is not a strong point. However, I was not expecting virtually no bass whatsoever. Don't get me wrong, the highs sound fantastic - crisp and clear as day. I didn't expect them to be comparable to the Cornwall's by any means, but I did expect the 12" woofers in the Heresys to have similar output that the 10" Reference sub had. Am I way off base here? To be clear, I am by no means an audio expert. Since I have never heard a pair of Heresys before I don't know what to listen for, nor what their bass standard should be. The settings in the Denon are correct from what I have researched. I do not have any surround or center speakers. The settings are set for front speakers and are set on "Large" with no sub. I have checked the positive and negative on both speakers and they are hooked up correctly. Have I just been spoiled with the bass response on the Cornwalls? Should I just pair them with a sub? It's just hard for me to believe that a speaker made by Klipsch and marketed as "2/3 a Klipschorn" would have so little bass response. Any input would be welcomed.
  8. New member, Mac/Klipsch collector of sorts. Unfortunately, facing a move that requires me to part with some awesome components and speakers. I live in the Columbus, Mississippi area, and can only offer pick-up, but will provide any loading help. Here are some of the items I will part with: 2 1963 KHorns - 2nd owner, excellent condition, currently used in H/T arrangement with Mac components. $2000 1 MX135 - bought in 2011 from Audio Classics, excellent condition (B1), all lights work, no scratches, etc. $2000 1 MVP861 - Bought in 2011 from Audio Classics, also in great condition (B1), no scratches, sounds great, lights work, etc. $1000 1 MC205 - 5 x 200W, bought from Audio Classics in 2011(B1), excellent condition $3000 2 Heresy III - Bought brand new in 2011 from Audio Classics, mint condition with risers $625/each This collection also includes a 3-year-old stand that I bought new for $1200, and a RSW12 subwoofer that I bought new 10 years ago. I also have a couple of KG4's and a pair of used RFIII-2 that are in mint condition. Although I have listed prices that I have discounted from my original bill of sale, I am willing to consider offers on any of this equipment. The equipment has been treasured and well-cared for. It is without flaw, and I will gladly send pictures to any serious party. Also, feel free to call me at (256) 318-1359. You won't be disappointed in this equipment and are welcome to come try it out.
  9. I need some help identifying my Heresy speakers (2nd owner, acquired about 12 years ago), as I've read conflicting information re serial numbers, driver labelling, etc. A paper label on the back of one cabinet has “8444973” and what I assume are craftsmen's names (label on the other speaker was unfortunately partially removed). Both boxes have an “S” die stamped into the rear frame, although not in the same place. One speaker has the “Type E2” balancing network mounted on the left, the other on the right. Identifying numbers: woofers are marked with what appears to be “K-22-?” (ink was smeared, so difficult to be sure); squawkers, “K-53”; tweeters, “K77”, “14 824 0137”, and “440”. Attached are pictures (grayscale to reduce file size) of various details of both cabinets. I would be very grateful if someone can tell me how to determine the model (Heresy I, II, or III) and year of manufacture.
  10. I picked up new Heresy IVs from an authorized dealer last week. The veneer on my speakers has several splits or gouges that are about 1" long on most sides of the speakers. These are not b-stock. The image below is from 1 speaker; the other speaker has similar, but fewer veneer issues. Is this expected or should it be considered a defect? These speakers represent a significant, but worthwhile, expense for me. I'm planning to keep these speakers for a very long time, but part of me is kind of disappointed that there are gouges all over my new speakers. Thanks!
  11. klipsch model H (Heresy HWR 12 B )speakers in amazing stock condition. PLEASE SEE you tube video 1961 klipsch heresy's.. SOLD left the klipsch factory on Feb 17 1961 serial # 212 and #213. notes in log books as new style.( no longer has grills on the side) first heresey's. still the exact way they left the factory with K77 horn k55 horn and kk22 woofer. grills in mint condition. cabinets in almost perfect condition I would call them a easy 9 out of 10. crossovers are stock.. these are extremely rare! please try to find any pictures. you tube post. notes. or anything else as you probably won't be able to find anything. I am going to let these go as they are WAY to special of a matching set that I need.. And YES THEY SOUND FANTASTIC! AMAZING! ROOM FILLING VINTAGE audio... any questions I will do my best to answer. this is also listed on the klipsch owners Facebook page. possible patial trade for klipsch stuff ( new heritage heresey's) 70th aniv heresey's.. etc. asking $1800. obo plus shipping from Portland Oregon. more pics available upon request let me know what you think on these amazing speakers.. (SOLD) THANKS again Craig..
  12. I have a Klipsch K-77-M in excellent condition with leads; simply drop into your cabinet and go. $80, plus shipping.
  13. I’m an Italian musician and Klipsch Fan, i’m Searching for a pair of Klipsch Heresy Slant Monitors HSM, where can I find a pair of these speakers for sale?
  14. Looking to sell my set of HII Oil Oak. They have been sitting for a while and need to go to a good home and I would prefer they go to a forum member. $500 local pickup Oxford, MS. Titanium Tweeters Crossover with Corbin Dubilier Caps Birch Risers (not pictured) Other Items $100 Bic F12 sub $250 Parasound 2125 V1 Message me if interested
  15. Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions Hello Folks: Mostly mid 1970s Heresy I, IIs, LaScalas, Belle and Klipschorn maintenance, sealing, and placement questions I have been reading many of the old, sometimes 20 year old posts. Many of the project and photo links no longer work . Moved into my new house. 1890s, hardwood floors 12-14 foot ceilings and 14 x27 ft main room plus 11 x 14 foot bedroom. Higher floor moldings than the K horn rear cutouts. General questions, some of which I am only asking due to the high cost and / or limited ability to get parts. Pre COVID, I would likely just do these. On all speakers, but do the big boys first: check all caps and replace the spam can caps on all of the larger speakers that were not previously replaced about 15 years ago, post Hurricane Katrina. Should I just contact Bob Crites? I will assume the crossovers, either original Klipsch or ALKs that I built when he sold the kits years ago are otherwise ok. I know I have a LaScala with a blown tweeter. Which replacement is suggested and will xover changes be required? I do have some baby butt JBL tweeters. Not sure if ok with the xovers. Should all cabinets be opened to check seals, gaskets and snug placement of woofers, mids, and tweeters? Re-gasket and reseal as needed – what do folks suggest for replacement gaskets / seals? Or: if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it? Should “O” rings between Alnico or KL drivers and various Klipsch horn components be replaced? If so, with what – just red rubber 25 cent plumber’s O rings? I have never opened any of the large speaker woofer panels / dog houses, etc. I have owned all speakers for about 15-34 years. FWIW I do have 1 set of wooden horn with 1 inch throats I think for the Khorns and a set of JBL radial horns of similar size (still looking for the drivers, lost in a box someplace). Old place had uneven stone floors and crumbly brick walls on 3 sides, plus roof leaks. 17 x 40 uniroom with high sloped ceiling (about 12-17 ft high) and good acoustics. New main room is much smaller, rectangular and without any carpeting or treatments is sonically very harsh. None of the 4 large outside windows work anymore – sealed shut long ago. No idea for the age or “firmness” of the existing plasterboard or drywall, but likely before the 1980s. I do not want to mess the place up making additional 4 x 4 ft 1 in thick plywood wall corners and triangle above the floor to brace things better. This would also likely require screwing the 4 x 4 s above the existing baseboards and floor. For sealing the khorns into a corner, the issue for me is that the baseboard is a few inches taller than the lower Khorn cutout. Should I make some cuts onto the Khorn or simply cut some strips of 1-2 inch wide x 1-2 inch thick pieces of wood and use foam pipe insulation or door seal around them and the rear of the Khorn to make a wall seal on the sides? Some great old posts with pics, like Garyd9 on 2 22 2004 (and many others): https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/37435-sealing-bass-bin-of-khorn/page/2/. Includes the wood corner braces too. I did not find a consensus on how to seal the top few inches or the bottom few inches in the center rear of the K horn woofer cabinet against the vertical wall corner. Suggestions? For sealing any of the large speakers to the floor (not the Heresy’s I guess) these seem to be representative posts: HDBRbuilder had several posts emphasizing the use of grippers, from Jan 7, 2009: Dr. Who: I would like to remind that if it is NOT grippers, then it may NOT have the same effect. Grippers are peel and stick 1/4" thick NEOPRENE with a traction enhancing non-stick side, which will "squish" somewhat under weight and give a better stability on SMOOTH-SURFACED floors which are slightly uneven. Groomlakearea51Posted March 14, 2007 Yup, pipe insulation works perfectly; You can also use 1/4 size (also comes with the "peel off" tape for the sticky edge). To seal to the floor.... I replaced the factory metal gliders (they will tear up a hardwood floor....) with teflon "gliders", but used more of them, including three "inboard" in the center; then used a piece of 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide closed cell foam weather stripping, but did not peel off the the "floor" side "sticky" cover. Slides around perfectly. Cheap to replace after several "move out for spring cleaning" moves that will tend to wear it off. I'm also debating about doing the same thing on the edges instead of pipe insulation next time around. Easier to trim and gets them very close to the wall. My humble Qs: since the 100+ pound LaScala, Belle, or Khorn is technically on small pieces of squished slightly pliable material, is it really “nailed” to the floor? I found some Scotch 8 gripping pads, 1.5 in diam at Home Depot for about $5.00, SP940-NA, 0-51141 59807-9 bar code. I also looked at some of the kitchen drawer liners at Walmart: https://www.walmart.com/search?q=drawer+liner. Could something like these do the trick? Mostly under $1 per foot. How easy or difficult is it to extract those small metal gliders from the factory? I can see doing this with the grippers and the LaScalas and Belle as 2 folks could move the speakers into place with only mildly destroyed finger tips and knuckles at worst. But why not just remove the metal gliders and place directly on the floor with maybe a few pieces of paper or cardboard or those floor sample freebies from Home Depot or Lowes stuffed under a corner to prevent any issues from uneven hardwood? Or even a few pieces of thin wood directly under the corners or fully under the outer floor edges of speakers and using foam or gasket to seal air around the corners and just leave the metal gliders in place? As for the Khorns, doing the grippers plus sealing the rear woofer cabinet to the wall corner will be a real problem so as not to mess up the floor and our hands. Since folks agree not to place the Khorns on a carpet (carpet plastic bottom to the KH bottom), I was thinking of using very thin wood strips above the floor, maybe ¼-½ in thick. For example, just cut to needed length: from Lowes: ReliaBilt 1/4-in x 2-in x 4-ft Square Unfinished Poplar Board Model #POPSRL142SU04 $3.04 Seems cheap and easy. Could use multiple wood strips both to move the speakers in and out and seal the air around the KH base similar to the vertical corner walls (adding a touch of foam at the triangle corners). Likely a major finger saver too. The metal sliders could be left in place. Would folks foam or weather strip seal the KH bottoms to the floor (if it could even be done) to prevent any movement through the “cracks”? Thx From NOLA with love
  16. For sale in the Phoenix area, a pair of 1984 Heresy oiled walnut, with risers. All original components and crossovers.
  17. This is my refurbished pair of spatter paint Heresy speakers along with a small stand I built for a Tascam CD-200 BT disc player/Bluetooth and an early 1970's Sony STR-7045 receiver. I veneered the speakers in white oak veneer, as well as the CD player box, but I used red oak for the stand legs. All pieces are finished with Tru-Oil. I'm very pleased with the results, sonically and visually. At some point I'll duck the Apple TV HDMI cable in the wall. Both the speakers and the stand have adjustable height legs to compensate for the bluestone floor which was laid on an outdoor concrete slab patio, pitched downhill to the left.
  18. One pair of Heresy IIIs - Cherry, SRB, with consecutive serial numbers. Some small dings and scuffs, overall very good condition. They are packed into their original boxes. LOWERING PRICE TO $1000 CASH - 4TH OF JULY SALE!!! Enjoy the speakers Spot!
  19. I recently was gifted a mismatched pair of slant monitors. Cabinets are very solid. Handles are mismatched. Both terminal plates are missing. Both k77s have bad coils. One k55 has push terminals, one has soldered. One k55 coil is bad. HIE x-overs look physically ok. Both k42 (kp?) woofers are in good shape though. SIGH! My gifts are usually like this. My main setup has Heresy IIs and I love them. My question is what the heck to do with the components or rebuild the whole. I have built hundreds of enclosures and passive crossover networks in my career as an audio technician so I am not afraid of a project. From what I understand the woofers roll off pretty high. So maybe new ported enclosure? Bass bin like lascala? What do you think guys?
  20. https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ele/d/pittsburgh-klipsch-heresy-hip-stands-amp/7322111412.html Klipsch Heresy HIP speakers from 1980. All drivers & crossover are original. Work and sound fantastic. Could use a paint job. Anthony Audio speaker stands. I had these stands made specifically for these speakers. They are very heavy duty and cost me $250 a few years back. I hate to part with these since Anthony has since passed away but I need the space. Rane MA6 multi channel Amp. This amp is a beast! choose between 6 150W channels or 3 300W channels bridged. Some of the speaker terminals on the back have become striped, so I added banana style jacks for easy hook up. I can throw in my home made cables if desired. Ashly LX308 Stereo Line Mixer. Consider this thrown in at no extra cost. It works fine but the knobs need to be replaced. Ashly still has them in stock if you need them. 2 Klipsch K42 Woofers. These woofers work great and were taken out of a pair of Klipsch KSM floor monitors. I kept these around in case I ever needed to replace a woofer in my Heresys since they uses the same drivers. $650 / Pickup in Pittsburgh https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/ele/d/pittsburgh-klipsch-heresy-hip-stands-amp/7322111412.html
  21. Optimal Cartridge for a Technics SL 1210: 2M Blue or Bronze, Super OM 30, Denon DL-110, AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa), or AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540? Hi Folks: Not sure where to post this. Let me know if it belongs elsewhere. Most of the info below is tell you folks about me and my gear. You can skip it if you like, as it is a bit detailed. My Technics SL1200 ?M3D is no more. Also gone is the Nigthclub S Cartridge and extra stylus. I still have the Music MMF-5 with a Goldring cartridge (?1024?), from about 10 years ago. It is my bedroom rig in New Orleans, I was never very happy with this, but completely different set up from what is noted below, except for the Onkyo. I work up in the DC area now and I have Klipsch LaScalas for my front speakers, Heresy Is for center and rear and a Fender 18” pro audio ported subwoofer (for which there is virtually no info on the web, nor from Fender). The LaScalas are “bright”, even for LaScalas. Therefore, I really do not need an over “bright” TT cartridge. I have a Pro-Ject - Debut Carbon Esprit SB (DC), 2M Red. It was bought knowing it had some damage and I got a 2M Blue stylus to put on the straight TT arm to replace the mangled Red stylus. It sounds very nice, but I have never had another needle on it. I do not intend to replace it. Also have a Pro-Ject Audio - Tube Box DS – Black phono pre amp. I have never compared this to anything else either. Seems to work fine. I only have a small studio apt now so I use the Tube Box for any / all TTs. Thank goodness for thick walls in an older building !! I use an Onkyo TX SR 805. Also about 10 years old. It is an all in one receiver, but with a very good amp for such a unit. I have acquired 3 additional TTs: Technics SL-1800 (repaired), 1210 MK5 and 1210 M5G (one of the 1210s also got minor repairs locally, the other has a gimpy ?gimble point on the tone arm, but it works fine – for now). (Long story on getting them.) Not sure I want to do the KAB fluid dampers on these now, nor any other modding now. Might consider mods after I get a good needle. They came with various used cartridges including an AT 92E, Stanton Groovemasters, etc. I have no way to know how “used” any of the cartridges and styli are. That said, none sound bad. I would like to have 1 good needle that I can easily interchange between these 3 TTs. Therefore, some sort of plug and play set up would be ideal, whether via a compatible cartridge mounted onto a head shell or a DJ needle, Best reccs for a DJ needle seem to be for the Ortofon Arkiv, but I doubt that it would be as good as any in the post title for regular hifi listening. I mostly listen to Jazz, Blues, 60s/70s rock, Disco, etc. I should also state that many of the dozen or so records I have up in DC now have seen better days and all were bought used. I have cleaned some of them, and yes there was gunk on them. The gunk and scratches were one reason to leave out the Super OM-40, as some web postings said that all the scratches etc are easily noted with the 40. Combined with the horn loaded speakers, I think the sound of nice new vinyl might be great, but most all of my 150+ records in NOLA are from the cheap used bin. I have listened to most of them before buying to make sure that that the records were at least in ok shape. 2M Blue- sounds fine on the Pro Ject and some say it is ok with the SL1200s. $210/165 (cartr/stylus, LP Gear or TTNeedles). It is mounted onto the Pro Ject arm and I am not going to mess with it. However, I would consider a second Blue on a headshell for the Technics TTs. Some really like the Bronze, but I do not know if either Blue or Bronze is a good match for my 3 Technics TTs when compared to the OM 30 or others listed here. $370/290. Super OM 30 gets good comments on the web. However, more postings seem to favor the ATs or Denon. $290/220, so more than Blue, but less expensive than a Bronze. TTN Jico Shibata stylus for OM 10, 20, 30, 40: $160 Super OM 40 might be better for those with high quality records, as I guess you hear every pop and such in the vinyl. Some folks on the web preferred the 30. $385/300. Denon DL-110 is said to be well mated to the 1200 series. However, there is no separate stylus for this cartridge, and setting the mount properly might be difficult. It might also be too bright for my LaScalas and Heresy’s. $200-300 AT 150 series (AT 150MLX or 150Sa) is said to be a real step up from the 440s – but so is the price. I am not really sure how much difference there is from the Sa to the MLX. $270-450/335. Perhaps the bargain, if I could score a Sa for $270 and if the Sa is similar to the MLX. AT has just released the VM740ML, VM750SH and VM760SLC to replace the 150s, but I know very little about them. AT 440 MLa, MlLb or new VM 540 get good reviews. MLb is $199/179 I have a few Mono records, not sure the $90.00 OM D25M is worth it for me. One potential advantage to the OM 30 is if I could get a stylus for the D25M that would work mounted onto the OM30 cartridge. Also note that some plug and play or otherwise premounted to headshell sets are available from some of the web retailers. There were also some comments about how difficult some of these are to set up. Any advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.
  22. I bought a pair of Heresy I’s in 1979 in college that have been w/ me ever since. Type E crossovers, K77 tweeters, K55-V squeaker drivers w/ K700 horns and K-22-E woofers. I replaced the K77s w/ new ones from Klipsch about 20 years ago when I blew them and I replaced the binding posts at the same time so I could use banana plugs and lower gauge speaker cable. Otherwise everything is original. I don’t hear any obvious problems with them, but I want to restore them to their former glory or better. I’ve been reading everything I can find here and at Crites and at ALK but I still have many questions and would appreciate advice. 1) I know I need new caps and since I don’t solder, I plan to replace the crossovers. I could use Crites Type E, which uses the same spec as the original, or ALK’s universal CSW which have some upgrades. A few questions about that: - I understand what Al says about constant impedance and no resistive error, but I don’t use an SAT amp so does that matter to what I hear? - Also, the Type E only uses a low-pass inductor for the woofer. The squawker and the tweeter use high-pass capacitors in parallel, so (if I understood Al’s site) high freq sounds that should only go to the tweeter go to the squawker too. Does that matter? Would it matter if I replaced the K77 tweeters w/ Crites CT120s? - Are the actual crossover frequencies the same between the two networks? It looks like maybe there is some adjustment possible on the CSW but I’m not sure. 2) Is upgrading the K77s to CT120s a good idea? 3) I know I need to replace the gasket between the squeaker driver and the squawker horn, but does it also make sense to upgrade the K-55-V with a Crites A-55G? Do squawker drivers wear out and/or is the A-55G a lot better? 4) Crites offers CW1228 woofers as drop-in replacements For the K-22-E. Are they better, especially given that the K-22-Es are 40 years old? Or what if I just rotated the K-22-Es 180 degrees as I read somewhere? Sorry about so many questions - I’ve read a lot on my own and I’m still not clear on the best way to do this. There is tremendous expertise here and I’d be grateful to tap into it. Thanks in advance
  23. Hello fellow Klipsch- Owners, just signed up and wish to introduce myself to this forum. I live and work in Berlin/ Germany. I´m lucky to own several products by the Klisch Company, those beeing: • RF 3´s plus center, rear, surrounds and a sub; got these while I stayed with the German Air Force in El Paso TX. • A pair of KG 1.5´s, bought with my first own money. • A pair of Heresy E´s (mid 70s, my guess). These are family heirlooms of a sort, beeing passed from my uncle to my mother and then to me. When i´ve got the time i wish to restore both the 1.5 and the Heresy E. Andre
  24. One pair H1 in walnut, crossovers renewed, condition 7/10 present nicely - $400. SN# 70S412 and 70S413 I bought these from a forum member in July and have played them exactly once. Hoping they find a home where they can get used. Selling them for the same price I paid. I'm in the Kansas City area - Thanks
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