greg928gts Posted May 14, 2009 Share Posted May 14, 2009 I just started my next Khorn restoration project. I think I'll be able to put together a fairly good webpage on these; one that shows more detail on the work being done. So for those who like to follow along with these projects, here's the link. www.dcchomes.com/FLKhorns.html Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest David H Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 Thanks for the link Greg, I love to watch your restorations an see the upgrades go together. I am guessing VTrac's are going to be blessing this Florida residents home in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blvdre Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 Always a pleasure to follow yours, and any of the forumites' projects. Not everyone comments, but there are many that enjoy these threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MechMan Posted May 15, 2009 Share Posted May 15, 2009 Greg, I always enjoy browsing your linked restorations and dreaming...One day...One day . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quinlanmw Posted May 16, 2009 Share Posted May 16, 2009 Greg, I hadn't visited your website since restoring my own KCBRs last fall. Your choice of the koa and cane grills on your own Khorns is stunning. Beautiful, beautiful work. And the La Scala...if it were me I'd have to move to find a room to accommodate all three. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted May 16, 2009 Author Share Posted May 16, 2009 Thanks for the link Greg, I love to watch your restorations an see the upgrades go together. I am guessing VTrac's are going to be blessing this Florida residents home in the near future. Oh yeah! They're getting "The Works"! Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 New pictures up. I'm working in earnest now. www.dcchomes.com/FLKhorns.html Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colterphoto1 Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Man when you get moving you really get a lot done in a hurry. I know they'll be uber lovely when complete but seriously were they that bad to start with? Look kinda like mine with just a few chips and snapped grille board from a bad move once in their lifetime. EDIT- Oh, on further review, numerous bad chips, the tops are TOAST. Worst of all, they are not at all a matched set. One has 4 panel on the front, one has 6. These are not sequential serial numbers I hope. If so, that was a BAD week for Khorns. They should look closer than that, but I'm certain they will when THE MASTER gets through with them. Adding the backs and a few other refinements (horn kits) is the final icing! That is some very cool wood, can't wait to see the finish! M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sunburnwilly Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 That veneer is wild , I love it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 No, they weren't in too bad of condition to start with, but the new owner really wants something special. When I'm sanding a project like this, I pay attention to how I'm able to sand out scratches and nicks; for future projects. I think almost everything could have been sanded out of these, and then with just a few repairs I could have made these look very nice. Except for the mismatched veneer on the bass bins. Yeah, there is one rogue bass bin floating around out there. Someone must have had four of these and mixed up the two bass bins when they sold them. The tops are sequential. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamesV Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Greg, As always, Damn Man, great work.... [Y] That veneer looks wicked... James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WMcD Posted May 31, 2009 Share Posted May 31, 2009 Greg, I'm keeping up, looking at your most recent posts. These days I'm not doing much woodworking. In previous days Titebond II was my favorite. I used Gorilla Glue as an experiment. Very much differerent than Titebond, of course. The foaming action was a new aspect which seemed un-necessary for common butt joints. On the other hand, it came in handy in one case of building polycylinders where the foam action caused what in welding would be called a fillet joint. That is to say, an added structural element. (Too complicated to describe here.). Would you comment, please, on the merits of Gorilla Glue type adheasives, in your work. There must be some situations where it is necessary, and others where Titebond types would do as well. Also, do you like the Bondo type epoxy fillers in woodworking over water based like Elmer's exterior grade filler? Here I'm not fishing for professional secrets, particularly. I expect that these questions are like asking a watchmaker the time of day. He is going to tell you how a watch, works, first. Smile. Wm McD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted May 31, 2009 Author Share Posted May 31, 2009 Greg, I'm keeping up, looking at your most recent posts. These days I'm not doing much woodworking. In previous days Titebond II was my favorite. I used Gorilla Glue as an experiment. Very much differerent than Titebond, of course. The foaming action was a new aspect which seemed un-necessary for common butt joints. On the other hand, it came in handy in one case of building polycylinders where the foam action caused what in welding would be called a fillet joint. That is to say, an added structural element. (Too complicated to describe here.). Would you comment, please, on the merits of Gorilla Glue type adheasives, in your work. There must be some situations where it is necessary, and others where Titebond types would do as well. Also, do you like the Bondo type epoxy fillers in woodworking over water based like Elmer's exterior grade filler? Here I'm not fishing for professional secrets, particularly. I expect that these questions are like asking a watchmaker the time of day. He is going to tell you how a watch, works, first. Smile. Wm McD I can't tell you much about the technical aspects of these glues. I really don't like using Gorilla glue because of the mess, but I use it in situations where I feel like I don't have the best joint to glue, like where I sanded those edges of plywood and then I'm adding a piece of hardwood to the edge. I figure that I'm not going to have good contact all the way down the edge, so the Gorilla glue will help fill those voids and make a better bond. I'm not sure it's true that it makes a better bond, I just feel like it does. I'll also use it where I know it's easy for me to sand. I don't know why, but I have a hard time trusting Titebond II or other wood glues like that. The glue just doesn't seem to have enough body and strength, especially with big bass bin cabinets. When I built my Jamboree cabinets, I used polyurethane construction adhesive (PCA), and it was a huge mess, but I know for a fact that the joints are a lot stronger than the wood. Those cabinets are so rugged you could toss them down a set of stairs and if anything broke, it would probably be the stairs! I'm going to use the same glue on the closed-in backs on the FLKhorns, I just can't bring myself to use Titebond. It's not that I've had a bad experience with Titebond, it's just that anything that can be wiped away so easily with water just doesn't seem nearly as strong as the PCA. You could glue two car bumpers together with the PCA and the tires would spin before the cars came apart. I know there's no relevance there to gluing wood cabinets, but I can't help thinking about stuff like that. Yes, I like bondo type wood fillers because they set up very hard and are easy to sand to a very fine point. I use ZAR wood filler for smaller fill areas and I like that just fine for small dents or nail holes, but I won't use it on an edge or corner because it just won't hold up the same way as the bondo (Minwax Hi-Performance wood filler). You could take your hand and tear the lighter weight fillers out of an edge, but not the bondo. The only drawback to the bondo fillers is the time to setup before sanding. It will harden within minutes, but it's not ready to sand for many hours, sometimes not til the next day. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 I thought this was kind of a neat picture. The inside face of the plywood is where the wall normally is when the Khorns are placed in a room corner. This increases the size of the Khorns by 3/4", but it makes it so the horn size is not compromised. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J.4knee Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Greg, All I can say is one day man one day, If I find a set of K's for the right price I'll send you my beloved LS and the K's. You sir are an artist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brac Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Greg, I like that last picture, really shows what your doing for the backs. Looks like it would be a tite fit getting a woofer in and out, how tough is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted June 4, 2009 Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hell yeah I love the way the backs are closed in!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Hell yeah I love the way the backs are closed in!!!!!!! Yeah, these kind of remind me of Jubilees, but then the mouth of the horn is not facing directly forward like with Jubs. This makes me think about the relationship between where the mouth of the horn is facing and the sound at the seating position. I think the more the mouth of the horn faces away from you, the more "refined", for lack of a better word, the bass is. This is one of the things I really appreciate about Khorn bass, is that it is kind of laid back, but at the same time there's some nice deep bass that will excite the right room and just sounds really nice. I also think that the more forward facing the mouth of the horn is, a la the Jubilee, the more is sounds like a PA speaker, maybe a little too forward, a little too much in your face, lumpy, thuddy sounding. I'm laughing at myself at these descriptive words. Does anyone out there know what I'm talking about? I've always found myself wanting a little more bass from Khorns, but any time I turned the mids and tweets down to try and bring the bass up in the mix, it didn't sound right to me. EQ's, bass knobs, and loudness controls never worked well for me either. Subs never mixed well. It's almost like you can't get more bass in the mix with Khorns without also loosing too much of the midrange clarity or causing some other kind of problem with the bass. The Jubilees on the other hand have all kinds of strong bass, right out front, solid, deep, authoritative, in your face, bass. Not too much bass necessarily, but they lack the refinement of the Khorn bass. They sound like PA speakers to me, kind of like my MWM's. I'd like to build something in between the two, with the refinement of the Khorn bass, but stronger deep bass that excites the room more. Yeah, that's all I need. [] Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 Greg, I like that last picture, really shows what your doing for the backs. Looks like it would be a tite fit getting a woofer in and out, how tough is it? I haven't actually put one in yet, but I did try putting one through the opening and it should be easy enough. To give you an idea, you could slide the woofer in sideways in exactly the position it's mounted in. You don't have to bend it around the corner. The opening of the mouth goes clear to the backside of the woofer chamber opening. It surprised me, I would have thought it might be a problem, which is why I went and got a woofer to try before I cut any parts. I put a straight edge on top of the speaker and a piece of tape down to my table where the edge of the mouth opening would be. No problem. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg928gts Posted June 4, 2009 Author Share Posted June 4, 2009 You sir are an artist! That might be stretching it just a bit. Especially if you saw me hacking some of those parts together! Someone asked me about making a kit to close in the backs of Khorns. I don't know if we could assume that all Khorns are exactly the same dimensions. Even slight differences would require that pieces be modified (hacked) to fit. Although I didn't have to re-cut any of the braces, only the miter joints of the side pieces. Even so, it's a tricky install. I made several mistakes which I have already covered up, or will cover up before I'm done. Then there's the size difference thing. The way I did these made the Khorns 3/4" bigger, which required a lot of work to the upper pieces so that they would also reach back to the wall. It took me 20 hours to cut and install all the pieces on the upper tophat pieces and the bass bins having to do with the closed-in backs. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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