Quiet_Hollow Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 The M-282 puts out 125 watts at 4 ohms. There is no external volume or gain control on this amp so I am assuming it is set to full gain. I have the DB level control on the 3008 sub out set to +12 (highest). So all that said I assume Im getting 125 watts Unfortunately, that's not the case. In the home audio environment, an amplifier is a voltage multiplier. Takes a voltage from the input, multiplies it by some number, and sends that higher number across it's output terminals. The output is dependent upon the input, so you have to know at least one of those numbers to know what the amps actually doing. That's where the multimeter comes into play. I have an Onkyo M-282 amplifier. I run RCA from the subwoofer preout on my 3008 to the left channel on my M-282. Then speaker wires from the left channel binding post to the sub. This is a good start, but what are the bass management setting on the Onkyo as of now? Im not even sure how you could run a subwoofer from the actual 3008 amp. Page 80 of the owners manual describes in detail the procedure for connecting Zone 2 speakers directly to the AVR (using the amp channels that are not in use at the moment to power additional zones). In your case, it would only be one speaker (the sub) and the "input" would be any unused analog source (like VCR or something). Then you use an RCA cable to patch the subwoofer out over to that selected input. The really nice thing is that the patch loop can contain an EQ, FBQ, MiniDSP or whatever in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psg Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Something must be wrong here, because in my 18x20x8 room, the THT bought out rattles I didn't think possible, even two stories above. You really need to use a voltmeter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Jason, Here is a subwoofer amp you might want to consider. http://app.audiogon.com/listings/paradigm-x-850-subwoofer-amp Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Jason, Here is a subwoofer amp you might want to consider. http://app.audiogon.com/listings/paradigm-x-850-subwoofer-amp Bill 850 watts RMS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Jason, Here is a subwoofer amp you might want to consider. http://app.audiogon.com/listings/paradigm-x-850-subwoofer-amp Bill 850 watts RMS? and around twice what he paid for the sub itself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RRFL Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Hey rodrocket, if you don't mind can u start your own thread. I'm trying to figure which amp I need to buy to run this THT. Thx Hey Jason, I posted those pics on here specifically as you asked about how to properly corner load the THT. The pics showed how a THT LP was properly corner loaded and mounted to the wall at the base. I also posted the quote from Bill Fitz the designer about corner loading. I can see from your photos and your comment that you may have missed that I was answering your question with details of a successful installation. In this installation the THT LP is so effective it will never be pushed past about 50watts. The QSC RMX-2450 amp driving it can deliver 10 times that amount of power in to the 4ohm driver. So there is IMO a problem with your non existent corner loading of the THT. Did you do anything about the length of the horn path and time align the rest of your system to take care of this important factor. If not the output from the THT will not be synchronised with the rest of your system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJCarney Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 I appreciate your attempt to help. However your LP hanging off a wall is.... Well unique to say the least and may not quite help explain "corner loading" for my THT. It does look cool anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeM38 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Something sounds off! Is the DVC driver's dual voice coil wired up properly? Out of phase issue? Hooked up wrong on the driver will cancel it's self out? Ask me how i know (whoops) I would think with you're placement you would be overwhelmed with bass! You should not need more amp than you are running. I don't use anywhere near that much power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJCarney Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 So I'm fairly certain I'm doing this right but just to idiot proof myself ill confirm with you guys. This is a DVC.... 8 ohm per coil sub. So to get it wired in 4 ohm load I connect the pos to pos to pos and the neg to neg to neg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeM38 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 Google dvc wiring.. Pos+Pos+Pos..... Neg+Neg+Neg.... =4ohm load Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 850 watts RMS? Maybe I should have added a couple of these.[][] This was my attempt at humor. I know a horn loaded sub does not need that much power. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 cool it with the snarky comments, lest you be flogged and added to the forum ignore list. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 19, 2012 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2012 If a Tuba sub is anything like a tapped horn sub the driver wired in reverse fights the whole design of the horn with very little output. I should know, I did it and was ready to pitch the cabinet until I figured out what I did wrong. [:@] That sub should have good output even with a lightweight amp, something really wrong here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 If a Tuba sub is anything like a tapped horn sub the driver wired in reverse fights the whole design of the horn with very little output. I should know, I did it and was ready to pitch the cabinet until I figured out what I did wrong. That sub should have good output even with a lightweight amp, something really wrong here. The Tuba is a single driver box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 It seems like this would be a bad setup, as the staircase would be a real good trap for the sound coming from the mouth of the Tuba: Turning it around and only getting it 6" from the wall would be about as bad. Honestly, a Tuba HT may not be right for you. If the risers on your stairs were not solid, the sound would probably change a great deal, but I would not want to tell you to start knocking risers off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gigbyt Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 THE DRIVER IS WIRED UP PROPERLY. It was checked for leaks before it was sold and none were found(using the tubing method). Maybe a wire popped out of its connection during transportation? this sub made very powerful bass in my setup running off 1 channell of an old onkyo stereo receiver. Having it 18" off the wall made it too large for my space 15x18 and i also couldnt put it in the spot it wanted to be in by doing the crawl test due to room setup. My frame of reference for very powerful bass is 2 SVS16-46cs+'s/samsom 1000 watt amp. also have heard dual E-D A7S-450's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Youthman Posted March 19, 2012 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2012 Wiring Diagrams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonJCarney Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 I opened the access port up today. It's all wired up correctly. Just realized how crappy this photo is....however its wired to a 4 ohm load Everything seems ok....Im thinking it's just a placement issue at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted March 19, 2012 Moderators Share Posted March 19, 2012 Everything seems ok....Im thinking it's just a placement issue at this point. I think you may be right. That angle under the stairs may be just killing the sound ? Maby just turn it slightly to point it into the room just for a test. That thing should be plenty bass for your room. I use a "spud" two 8 in drivers with a little AVA250 plate amp at about 180 wpc. The gain on the sub is at about 11 o'clock and it has good bass in a 24 x 18 room. That's what made me thing something was killing the bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 cool it with the snarky comments, lest you be flogged and added to the forum ignore list. Am I the only one that got that? LMAO[Y] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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