mustang guy Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 I have watched a bunch of videos and done a lot of searching for ways to make a TV lift. Here is a picture of my projector screen being partially blocked by my LCD. As you can see, I really don't need to go very far down with the TV to get out of the way of the projector. I plan on pulling the THT's and the LS out far enough to get a lift in. Here are the lift types I have been contemplating: linear actuator trailer jack scissor cable/pulley hydraulic airbag small zombies telekinesis antigravity A want to keep it cheap, sturdy, level, powered, quiet, beautiful (or hidden), and did I say cheap? I am in no hurry, but I want to have fun with it. Any ideas, no matter how crazy are very welcome. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators dtel Posted February 9, 2013 Moderators Share Posted February 9, 2013 It's hard to see the problem, the cars on the left are distracting me, especially the Chevy. [:|] What about something like this but mounted on a frame to raise up when needed, it can hold #450 and lift #150. http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/171221.aspx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Looking at the wall the idea I have is to first, build some kind of steam punk retro cabinet that reflects the area that its in. Maybe tirm it in car parts, throw some 60s bezel taillights on it, usse tail seconion and some 1/4 panels as the sides of the cabinet, aluminum expanded metal as the grill, butcherblock workbench top, etc. something that the components and front cabinets can be concealed in. Part 2 of this will be raise the projector screen up and space it off the wall enough to hide a drop mechanism behind the screen. Drop the tv out the bottom into the open area above the new cabinet. Back lighting etc. you can always lift the tv out of the cabinet into the same area but the drop would be a nice touch. The actual mechanism is just a linear actuator with cables ran like a double or triple section fork lift. I've also seem them use power window motors and thread all. Did a lot of motorization in my younger days on cars. The possibilities are endless. If you can get 12 volts in there you can use a basic car alarm with channel expanders to operate lights ,lift, etc. this is a stock lift in a hooker cabinet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Something like this( dont judge my sketchbook abilities) mustang tail section stretched with grill clothe center to be acoustically transparent over center channel. Bumper extended for lower trim, butcher block or diamond plate top. Cabinet painted in automotive paint. Edge lighted electronics shelves, expanded metal over speakers. all metal would have to be coated from backside to prevent resonance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Matthews Posted February 9, 2013 Share Posted February 9, 2013 Maybe you can look into something similar to the way in which they do this with TV stands built in to beds at the foot of the bed. I have seen this application in a retail bed before. Forgot where. Basically, there was a wooden enclosed shelf that would raise a plasma TV out of it with a remote control lift. Pretty cool, and I could see something like this for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Richard Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Something like a modified motorized motorcycle lift dropping down into a facade - could be a wood facade or automotive themed housing: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200446267_200446267?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Auto%20Repair-_-Jacks-_-145014&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=145014&gclid=CJOY4MiDrLUCFSWRPAodJTYAtQ This would require a bit of DIY but I don't think you would have any trouble with that. Cool cars, BTW. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiva Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I see a slightly different solution. Mount or place a stand for the tv on the wall behind it. Then get a retractable screen to drop down in front of it when its movie time. You can get electric screens pretty cheap these days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tigerwoodKhorns Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 I see a slightly different solution. Mount or place a stand for the tv on the wall behind it. Then get a retractable screen to drop down in front of it when its movie time. You can get electric screens pretty cheap these days. You beat me to it. definately the easiest solution. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InVeNtOr Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 um, well, i would...., let's see here..... damn! move the cars! can't think! +1 ^^^^ making a simple solution into a complicated process. if you want to make more complicated, build the TV into a small recess, then let the screen retract in front of it. i would suggest the bottom of the retractable screen go lightly lower than the bottom of the tv (pure illusion effect). i would also change the gear up. it seems like it's a very tall for what's in it. can you have a smaller ET center? (just a side suggestion, i don't want to derail the current topic). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Adapt one of these mechanisms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JL Sargent Posted February 10, 2013 Share Posted February 10, 2013 Maybe I missed it, but why not just move the projector screen up that small distance and be done with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Lots of good ideas guys. Thanks. Great drawing by the way. Not sure that's what I'm after at this time, but I will keep it in mind when I get in a decorating mood. [] The projector screen was a very expensive fixed screen and is mounted to 2"X6's which took me a day to affix. I don't really want to go through that again. I contemplated a pull-down type, and decided on fixed for a variety of reasons I won't get into. That screen is gonna have to stay. I have a heavy duty screen-to-wall-mount I could incorporate somehow. That way, instead of trying to keep a platform level, I can mount it and raise that mount up and down. I'm not saying I am doing it this way, its just that keeping a TV stand level is likely to be tough. I keep trying to think of easy ways to make it stay level. That's a tough one. Perhaps file cabinet drawer guides on each side. ?? One thing worth mentioning is the screen shown is a 55". It has been replaced by a 42" screen, which reduces the actual required drop to get the TV out of the way of the screen. I would guess that 8-10" would be sufficient. Another thing worth mentioning is that I have compressed air available. That would be cool to use as the power source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang guy Posted February 10, 2013 Author Share Posted February 10, 2013 Check this out. I wonder what they call this kind of air bag. It is like a pillow, and it would be perfect! I don't want the lift, just the bag... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Don't know what the ceilings and rafters look like but here's a simple idea spinning off the basket ball hoop idea. High school I went to had the backboard mounted on arms and hooked to motors that lifted them up into the ceiling into the rafters. Easiest thing I can think of if room permits is single pole hinged to the ceiling with TV mounted to it . Find a used garage door opener to move it. Ive seen them used to motorize alot of things in homes, my childhood friends parents had one hooked to a couch in their living room that was a trap door to the bomb shelter. to get the signal to the tv use a balum off mono price? Might not be ideal solution but just helping you spin the wheels some more without re inventing what already in place you could even mount the tv above the screen and use the opener to lower it down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 I was certified a while back with fleet suspension. Those bags were 12v obviously. Im not saying get some suspension bags although helping with possible power source with reason. I bought several high end 12v compressors that go in school buses, ambulances, motor homes etc.. anyhow i used these, the best you could get was a thomas compressor pump on a 12v psu. pump rated at 22amps so i bought the big pyramid with dual hook ups rated 40 amps and handles(ebay had them att for $150. I mudded a pair of ford bedsides and primed and painted them in a guys garage in under 8 hours with that rig. Not trying to say get bags and compressor but trying to toss around some ideas...I was also thinking of a couple large high voltage servos on lithium polymer 4 cell batteries. some of these ideas could get on the pricier side of the tv lift in a box, normally installed by the local a/v shop as well for $1100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Going off the air idea do you have a compressor in the shop already? If so air cylinders are rather inexpensive(industrial automation kind, not automotive) just make sure you use a decent regulator in line. And test with something of similar weight to the tv. 130psi on a 2b6 or Firestone 2600 bag will put a 3000lb car a couple feet of the ground with large enough ports. In fact (8) 1/2inch SMS valves on dual port 2b6 bags will get the back of a truck around 4 feet off the ground if u use limiting chains and 200psi. It's fun stuff:-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beeker Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 much further you might want to patent this material. i sat in on the navistar certification yrs ago. sounds like you were the guy that should of ran it cause i still had to teach myself when i worked in service 4yrs ago in northern ohio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InVeNtOr Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 keep in mind, cables, they have to move with this tv. i think a very simple and cheap idea could be drawer slides. there are all kinds of those, you could even call Snap-ON for some of their drawer slides. if it were me, i would build a box, mount the TV to the box. that way, when the TV is up, all you see is the TV mounted in that open box and the slides on the side. you could either have it be a simple manual lift (ie, you pulling it up and down) or maybe rig something up with air. the box will also help hide the wires. how much is the tv lift normally? just the normal one people put in furnature? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shiva Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 How about, mounting the tv to the back wall and put the screen onto some type of guided runners or pulley system that slide it up and down the wall in front of the tv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McMiRA Posted February 11, 2013 Share Posted February 11, 2013 Drawer slides will work, will have to run 4 of them, the mechanism needs to be 2 stage to get the height out of a lift that will fit inside the cabinet. Unless you could find 4 foot long slides. Motor ( air, electric, flux capacitor) lifts the first stage. First stage has pulley(s) on top with cable ran from the base of the lift frame, over the pulley, to the bottom of the second stage. Single stage would have to stick out the top of the cabinet to be stable. If it didnt then part of the tv would still be concealed in the cabinet at full extension. Just open a drawer in your kichen and you'll see what I mean. Unless the drawers are on double sliders part of them stays in the cabinet. Also take into consideration your lift mechanism only needs to extend the full leanght of the first stage, not the entire distance of travel desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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