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Crossover Roadshow


Deang

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Double check the polarity of everything. Start by making sure the positive lead wire is really connected to the positive terminal of each driver - use the factory mark on each driver to validate. I should have mentioned this the other day - sorry!

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I still type too slow.

Anything is possible with a crossover, haven't you ever wondered why us crossover guys are listed in Forbes.

A fading in and out issue is a new one on me. Is it really fading in and out or more like going away and coming back.

Right now, both networks are tapped out the same, and the only difference significantly impacting the output of the midrange is the crossover point, which is now 600 instead of 400.

We know the drivers are okay, which means you have two sets of strange behaving crossovers. You should probably send me a pair - I prefer the non - fading in and out variety.

Edited by DeanG
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I have one left on the list, but I can't get that person to respond. If there is anyone else, now is the time.

I'm in the process of building a slightly modified Type AA with DC biased capacitors. It should be ready to hit the road by the end of next weekend.

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My ears have had a few weeks to become accustomed to the sound and I'm noticing a horrible problem. It's the same issue that occurs with these chip amps I'm playing with... The music is just cleanly amplified. No coloration, no horrendous imbalance across the spectrum, exceptional clarity. It's like I'm hearing the recording exactly as it is meant to be, merely amplified. All of which makes me question reality and wonder if I'm making it up in my head. Music schizophrenia.

Some day I'd like to send Dean a bunch of my money for some fancy Jupiter cap networks, but for the time being these battery biased B-2's are superb.

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wonder if I'm making it up in my head

Not to be funny at all, but yes that is it. We don't listen, it always in the past. We have heard the music, it is all in our heads from the moment before. We just subjectively recover it thru playback. The better the reproduction the better the recovery session.

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Thank you Carl.

The stock attenuation setting on just about all of the Klipsch loudspeakers sounds too hot to most people. Even though the modified AA you tried was technically correct, it was still too much for your ears. Now, the B2s you put in are tapped out identically to modified AAs you tried. Though attenuated identically - one you you couldn't stand to listen to, while the other was perfectly fine.

The only difference of significance is the crossover point. When people first started building these things and using horns with a lower cutoff, I suggested staying with the original, higher crossover point. I suggested it because I knew it would reduce both the amount of overall energy to the driver (additional attenuation), as well as possibly reduce distortion (due to keeping the crossover frequency further from the horn's fc).

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Guest David H

The Horn in the picture is the Fastrac Cornwall, that horn is designed for use with 600hz + crossovers.

The B2 will work nicely.

When people first started building these things and using horns with a lower cutoff, I suggested staying with the original, higher crossover point. I suggested it because I knew it would reduce both the amount of overall energy to the driver (additional attenuation), as well as possibly reduce distortion (due to keeping the crossover frequency further from the horn's fc).

Dean is correct. The Cornwall at 600hz is great, there is no reason to have a lower crossover point.

Dave

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Most people don't know that many of stock crossovers were built by employees at home after they got off work. They would collect the needed parts before leaving for the day and then have at it. So, we see air cores with steel screws through them and things like this: the correct screw material, but with coil shoved about as close to the low pass coil as possible. So, this job started by moving it to a better place. ALL of the screws were loose. I hate the Cinch barrier strips and consider them junk. Sorry. Notice that the cans are beginning to leak. Many of these capacitors had many years on them before they were even used - I was told that most of them were WWII surplus, and that PK had thousands of these things. Some were supposedly kept in barrels on the factory floor. I have to admit that I don't know how much of that is true.

Retrofitting is a pain. I know it looks like hell, but it's really some of my best work. Yeah, I know that sounds a little scary, oh well. The leads look unsupported, but they're held firmly in place by the wiring, which is stiffer and heavier than the lead it's attached to. I worry a little about the effects from mechanical vibration, but I think it'll be okay. The coil I wanted to use was too big to get on the board without creating a lot of extra work. So, I stole an old coil from an AK? network and trimmed it down a little. The wire gauge is thinner than I'd like it to be, which means the DCR is kind of high. But I know what Carl is looking for and I think it's going to work out pretty good.

My back has been killing me and I'm moving really slow. I've also got a pile of stuff that I need to move out of here, please bare with me (you all have gotten very good at that, and I sure do appreciate it).

post-1106-0-72960000-1394057561_thumb.jp

post-1106-0-12000000-1394057591_thumb.jp

Edited by DeanG
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