CECAA850 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I looked before I sent them out, and looked at the pics you posted. I still don't see where the cans are leaking, unless you're not talking about a physical leak rather an electronic one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 6, 2014 Author Share Posted March 6, 2014 look at the two cans that are next to each other. Compare the surface of the can of the right to the one on the left. Notice the Q-tip, where I wiped the oil up from the can. The oil is seeping from the solder tabs. It's not a lot, but it's the beginning of what leads to a lot worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 look at the two cans that are next to each other. Compare the surface of the can of the right to the one on the left. Notice the Q-tip, where I wiped the oil up from the can. The oil is seeping from the solder tabs. It's not a lot, but it's the beginning of what leads to a lot worse. That's why you're working on them and not me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 What's a few PCBs among friends... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 ^lol... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 I notice with the old oil caps is they either use a rubber seal, a phenolic type of wafer, or a ceramic/phenolic combination for a seal. Close inspection will reveal wet seals around the solder tabs, or take a cue-tip and wipe the tabs like Dean mentioned. You'll see a dirty brown wet substance, (oil) and one can smell it as well. The ceramic sealed one seem to hold up best...the rubber ones are the worst. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest " " Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 My Dean Crossovers are all covered with dust. And yes they still function properly. I wonder if he makes an anti dust kit. JJK you don't want to de-dust them...the dust adds capacitance (especially dog and cat dander)....the extra capacitance makes the system sound silky, smooth, warm...almost tube like. If you take the dust off...your going to be looking for a dust upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djk Posted March 6, 2014 Share Posted March 6, 2014 (edited) "I was told that most of them were WWII surplus" True, before the early 70's. Later they tried Mylar, and when that didn't work they had new oil caps made. The new oil caps did not have the hermetic seals that the old military surplus ones had, and they don't last as long either. The old WE hermetic glass-sealed caps from the 30's usually test good, even today. "you don't want to de-dust them" National Semiconductor had an audio handbook with a chapter called called 'Floobydust', very hard to find. I've had two copies, the second took the factory rep a couple of years searching to find for me. Don't loan them out, they don't find their way home. http://www.aed.pro/images/floobydust.jpg Edited March 7, 2014 by djk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max2 Posted March 7, 2014 Share Posted March 7, 2014 (edited) No batteries yet, but these guys sure are smooth. Thanks for the hookup Dean. Edited March 14, 2014 by Max2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 Dean, check your e-mail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I did, I don't have anything from you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Sent sat at 11:41 PM. It's still in my sent folder. I'll resend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 Got it/responded Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 As did I. Just need info, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Should have them here by Friday! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 I just found some left over pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 I just found some left over pieces. Makes sense. I noticed that they were 2 lbs lighter now than when I sent them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mboxler Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 A little off topic, but where can I get a good spade connector for these and similar networks? They can only be a max of 8 mm outside width. I'm currently using some from Ace Hardware . Sorry if this has been posted elsewhere. Thanks, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Panduit makes the best. You can get them from Mouser. They will handle up to 14 gauge wire. The part number is 644-PNF14-8F-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 Dean, I'm starting to not trust my e-mail reply's to you for some reason. Did you get my last question? If not, I'll post here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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