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Recommended sub for LaScala Trios


Youthman

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That's my point scrappy. I've learned over the years not to go with the bottom tier but don't want to waste money buying the very best either. I tend to buy something in the middle and am typically very satisfied.

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Ok but I'm still confused on why the 12" was even mentioned. I've been looking at Rivernuggets 15" version and the F20 which is a 15". Once I went went to a 15" sub, I've never had a desire to go back to a 12". The 15's just dig soo much deeper for my taste.

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I see what you're saying if you were to compare direct radiating designs but with these horn subs its really the horn that dictates how deep the frequency will reach and driver size along with X-max determines maximum output.

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Is anyone else struggling with where the 12" came into the equation? :P Why is a 12" driver being compared when it's not being considered in the upgrade? My question is how will the 15" budget driver compare to the 15" higher quality driver in the same application? ;) ;)

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Is anyone else struggling with where the 12" came into the equation? :P

Just for a comparison and price point, nothing else.

The reason i chose to use the Dayton Classic 15" because it was the best bang for the buck.

Why is a 12" driver being compared when it's not being considered in the upgrade?

If its not being considered just disregard the comparison, i did not recall seeing a 15" driver being a prerequisite for your subwoofer.

My question is how will the 15" budget driver compare to the 15" higher quality driver in the same application? ;) ;)

You will loose about 2 dB in maximum output using the budget driver due to less X-Max.

20 watts will drive most people out of the room, if you want extreme volume use a better driver.

Edited by jason str
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The dts10 super spud use 2 12" drivers...im along for the learning here as well. have heard many horn sub varieties. They can be a flop unless set up properly. When done properly with your 3 way horn loaded lascalas they will sound so correct...That tht would also be a great piece in my opinion...

I really like the fact your taking your time on choice and weighing out the options no doubt! Once you do make the choice if be a single or duals your gonna like it....I would say that one tht would do the trick...just use the proper amp and setup and you'll be golden...

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How does the F20 compare performance wise to the THT?

I'll try to find some specs, but I believe they were very close in performance.

Performance depends on the width of the THT & driver compliment.

The two cabinets are very different but if going by size only a 29" THTLS would offer a flatter response & higher efficiency.

F-20 being 60"L x 29.375"W x 20"D

29" THT being 60"L x 29"W x 18"D

On the F-20 the horn mouth is 20" wide tuned to 20 Hz

On the THT the horn mouth is 29" wide tuned to 22 Hz

You could get similar results of the F-20 with a much smaller width THT.

According to the frequency charts the F-20 will dig slightly lower but like everything else your results will be room dependent and will vary.

Edited by jason str
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man....wouldnt you guys believe that tht that (rivernuggets/claude) has would be a homerun??

I wanted to toss it in to a possibility for youth once it was back on the market...didnt take much time finding its way into a prospect...I just see it as a done deal personally...with a little work in the theater room i would be on that tht like crazy.....

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man....wouldnt you guys believe that tht that (rivernuggets/claude) has would be a homerun??

I wanted to toss it in to a possibility for youth once it was back on the market...didnt take much time finding its way into a prospect...I just see it as a done deal personally...with a little work in the theater room i would be on that tht like crazy.....

I gave Youthman the heads up.

You would be hard pressed to build one for that price.

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The dts10 super spud use 2 12" drivers

That's a tapped horn which might not be ideal. See above.

Thanks for the comparative response Jason.

Having built my own Tapped Horn with a 12" Single Lab driver, then buying one DTS-10, then TWO, with a Tuba HT in between (still sitting in my basement between two KPT-200's), it's pretty simple. A LaScala is NOT a horn below 104 Hz., so you need a sub to go up there and "shake hands with it." a THT, will easily go from 20-100 Hz. while a tapped horn will go from 11-15 to 60 Hz. It will go lower than either the THT or F-20, but at a much lower efficiency also. You will need about 4-20X more power for a tapped horn sub vs. a THT, which is more efficient and easily get past 100 Hz. if you need it.

Otherwise you will have to do what I had to do with my FH-1 woofer section (similar to LaScala) and to a 10 DB boost at 60 Hz., which uses 10X the power at that "direct radiator" frequency from those short horns, and really adds distortion. This is why I now use a Quarter Pie horn with a Klipsch K-33 woofer (50-323Hz.), which gets me to 50 Hz. without any EQ. Much cleaner, more impact, etc. but you will get that from a THT or F-20 instead of doing what I had to do.

i just want to add that I have measured all of this stuff, so it's not just opinions, which are rampant all over the internet without facts to support them.........this forum is not immune to this phenomenon.

Edited by ClaudeJ1
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That's my point scrappy. I've learned over the years not to go with the bottom tier but don't want to waste money buying the very best either. I tend to buy something in the middle and am typically very satisfied.

keep in mind also the 80-180 is just the Dayton line. We can start talking about lms ultra 15" being one of the best drivers available. If you look at that price the 180 "high end" Dayton is much cheaper in comparison.
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