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RF-7 SOUND MODS


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The big thing is taking the speaker apart to get to the board.

The board is built on to the back of the speaker wire terminal cup. Remove the cup and you have the crossover also. The tweeter needs to be removed. It's held in with Torx screws if I recall. You have to take the tweeter out to disconnect the tweeter wiring. I believe the bottom woofer wiring can be reached through the crossover hole and the upper woofer wiring can be reached through the tweeter opening.

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I think I'll try the Bitumex, it's easily available in Switzerland/Germany. Silicon seal sounds too daunting for me at this point. :D

The Bitumax is relatively expensive, and I think it's used primarily for car applications due to its damping characteristics, so I'm sure its a winner. That's funny you think it looks easy, it looked kind of hard to me, because I don't do scissors well, but I do have finger painting skills(the silicon seal version)! :lol:

The Silicon seal is cheap, dispensed from a tube, like toothpaste, and is very easy to do. That's a lot closer to my skill level.

I think either method, or even the mass loading (clay) would accomplish the same result, which is to make us think we have done something cool to make our speakers sound better. It's very American to get things, like speakers, computers, cars, then immediately start to make changes to them them so they become uniquely ours. B)

The Beach Boys video (below) is very culturally biased to the US, so if you need a translation of the lyrics, ask any American kid my age, which is over 50. :D

Edited by wvu80
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I see no point in half-assing this. If you're going to go through the trouble of breaking everything down, then do it right. Replacing the oval epoxy coated capacitors that are in series with the horn have almost the same level of impact as the modification. Also, all of the resistors on the high pass board should be non-inductive types - preferably Mills.

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I see no point in half-assing this. If you're going to go through the trouble of breaking everything down, then do it right. Replacing the oval epoxy coated capacitors that are in series with the horn have almost the same level of impact as the modification. Also, all of the resistors on the high pass board should be non-inductive types - preferably Mills.

Hey Dean....I'd be all in on that but I have NO idea what all I need to replace the existing equipment. Carl turned me on to the resistors or else I would have no idea about those!!

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They're easy to spot. There are two, bright red/orange, right next to each other. One is a 12uF, the other is a 5uF. Pry them off the board, desolder, remove, replace with a capacitor of your choice (I like ClarityCap ESA Series, Auricap XO, or AudynPlus). You will have to be imaginative because the new parts will be MUCH bigger. Just pretend you're working a puzzle.

You will need two 10 ohm, two 2 ohm, and two 1 ohm resistors - all Mills.

Edited by DeanG
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Replacing the oval epoxy coated capacitors that are in series with the horn have almost the same level of impact as the modification.

Not to my ears. If I had to put a percentage of improvement on the resistor vs everything else, I'd go 70/30 in favor of the resistor. The only reason I can say this is because I lived with the stock crossovers for several years, the resistor mod for about 2 years and the all out mod since then.

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You going to try this derrick? I bet it works great.

I would have never dreamed of modifing a speaker or using pro gear when I joined the forum but, hanging out with the guys on the forum, makes it not seem to hard to do a lot of things, lol.

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They're easy to spot. There are two, bright red/orange, right next to each other. One is a 12uF, the other is a 5uF. Pry them off the board, desolder, remove, replace with a capacitor of your choice (I like ClarityCap ESA Series, Auricap XO, or AudynPlus). You will have to be imaginative because the new parts will be MUCH bigger. Just pretend you're working a puzzle.

You will need two 10 ohm, two 2 ohm, and two 1 ohm resistors - all Mills.

Considering you do this for a living (or at least to make some $$$) I think that is very cool you would offer your expertise. :cool:

I gave you a big :emotion-21: :emotion-21: :emotion-21: for that.

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Dean makes it SOUND easy. I believe that he had to lengthen the spacers between the boards to fit all the parts in. The resistor mod alone is a good first crossover mod project that's not too difficult and gives noticeable results. Once you get a little more polished up on working on the boards you can progress up the ladder. Worst case scenario, you totally screw the pooch on the full blown mod and have to send them to Deans crossover hospital for resuscitation.

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I have to do a pair this week. I'll post some pictures.

I don't use the spacers anymore -- I found a workaround.

The only thing that's even remotely painful is if the new leads don't fit through the existing holes -- then you have to either drill them out bigger with a bit or use a file. I just drill the hole out a little bigger.

You need a hot melt gun. They cost about $7.

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I have to do a pair this week. I'll post some pictures.

I don't use the spacers anymore -- I found a workaround.

The only thing that's even remotely painful is if the new leads don't fit through the existing holes -- then you have to either drill them out bigger with a bit or use a file. I just drill the hole out a little bigger.

You need a hot melt gun. They cost about $7.

For anyone who might question Deans integrity, think ill of him for whatever reason or just plain don't know him, re-read the above post and let it sink in. Here's a man that builds and modifies crossovers to supplement his income and he's helping you do it yourself. 'Nuff said.

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It's really easy. Just hot glue the resistor to the board next to the existing resistor, wrap the leads around the edge of the board and put a dot of solder to parallel them with the neighboring resistor.

Pardon my ignorance but I would need to buy another resistor?

The only bad question is the one you don't ask.

You'll need one of THESE per speaker.

thanks for the link. I am taking the plunge, for only 10 dollars including shipping.

I bought extras. I like the idea you can snip it if it was not good. I personally don't notice the ring (unless its a really crappy CD source). Or at least nothing runs me out of the room.

It's either my ears or I have a perfect room!

I've had my RF7's over a decade and a half.

I bought extra to do the RC63 center channel if needed, I belive Dean once said you can do it to. Did I remember that right?

Wasn't there also once a mod on here that involved using a nickle?

Edited by altpensacola
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RC-7 too.

I said it was important to do, not that it would be easy to do. If you have the aptitude for this kind of thing, it's not that bad - but it's still a bit of a pain in the rear. It's not about my integrity, for I have an ulterior motive -- it's time consuming and not as easy as it looks. I figure at some point the OP will resort to cussing, which will actually help my business. :) it's okay, well get through this.

Please buy the correct resistors, I know how ridiculous it sounds, and I thought the same thing, but resistors don't sound the same. Good grief, I can't believe I said that out loud. Please don't tell anyone.

Quantity and Parts express part numbers:

(2) 005-1

(2) 005-2

(2) 005-10

Yes, they really cost $4.25 each. Sorry.

Edited by DeanG
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