avguytx Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 3 minutes ago, Maximus89 said: I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally? The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day. The original glue area is not that much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 The panel basically sits on that tiny lip all the way around so I basically gave it a lot larger glue area along with being able to screw it down, I didn't have to leave it clamped for a day. The original glue area is not that much.Oh, understood. Makes sense. Im not skilled like that. So you put a block and glued and clamped to the small glue area that already exists and then you screwed it in from the side-into the existing glue area for extra support?Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 Sorry, I got confused from the screws going inside to the back, since I figured the existing glue block was too small and the added block wouldn't sit flush with it? Idk I guess I gotta open it up and take a look when I get a chance. Thanks for giving me a better look though. Its always daunting opening up these massive speakers. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nmorris43 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 On 9/26/2021 at 10:11 AM, Maximus89 said: Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job? Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk On one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted September 27, 2021 Share Posted September 27, 2021 On one of the CF4's the back was rattling when hit with heavy bass. I did not remove the backs, but i did pry them apart wide enough to get some clear gorilla glue down in the joint and then clamp it while the glue hardened. Also, I ran a fillet of Gorilla glue around the inside of each side with the back to help solidify things.That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the jobSent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyErnie Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 Might need to change out the compression drivers on the CF2's, any thoughts? I'm leaning towards the PSD:2013 Eminence, maybe the Peavey neo HERE. I kinda have a 'thing' for Titanium after doing the tweeters in the KG2.5's with Bob Crites' Ti diaphragms. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avguytx Posted September 28, 2021 Share Posted September 28, 2021 1 hour ago, DirtyErnie said: Might need to change out the compression drivers on the CF2's, any thoughts? I'm leaning towards the PSD:2013 Eminence, maybe the Peavey neo HERE. I kinda have a 'thing' for Titanium after doing the tweeters in the KG2.5's with Bob Crites' Ti diaphragms. Thanks! I have a pair of RX22's I'd sell that are sitting idle if interested. They aren't the "N" models, though. Still have titanium diaphragms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 4, 2021 Share Posted November 4, 2021 I bought a pair of CF3’s at an estate sale over a year ago and just unboxed them last week. Good new all the speakers work, bad news all the hot melt glue is coming loose. Looks like a good winter project! I bought my first Forte 2 new and still have them. Thanks for all the advice! 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Serial numbers 041795532 and …..33. Epic series three with a February 97 date. Were these some of the last ones made? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 6, 2021 Share Posted November 6, 2021 Serial number from box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORDROOTMAN Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 My CF4 in garage with PARASOUND JC5 CLASSE SSP800 Cocktail Audio X45 Dac streamer 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LORDROOTMAN Posted November 7, 2021 Share Posted November 7, 2021 This is also my KLF 30 with Ciare drivers SimAudio moon evolution W7 Amp parasound Hint6 for preamp Cambridge Azur 851N Dac streamer dual SVS SB16 no fancy cables just audioquest type 4 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Beautiful wood under the black finish. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 13, 2021 Share Posted November 13, 2021 Blocks added to attach removable back. Sides braced with 3/4” plywood strips. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 Wood grain on 2nd speaker. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 On 9/27/2021 at 4:11 PM, Maximus89 said: That sounds like an easier solution especially if I decide on adding some bracing anyway if im up for the job Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 Just now, Tnhiker55 said: You can remove a back by heating it from the inside with a heat gun. I used some plastic wedge shape tile spacers to slowly separate the back from the cabinet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maximus89 Posted November 25, 2021 Share Posted November 25, 2021 You can remove a back by heating it from the inside with a heat gun. I used some plastic wedge shape tile spacers to slowly separate the back from the cabinet.Thanks for the tip. I realllly should get on it once the clamps went on to the speakers I stopped caring how they look as long as the low end is nice and tight. I think I'm waiting for the desire and funds to open up for bracing interior, recap, higher quality internal wire, high quality banana connectors and then new veneer and paint the front baffle. Lots of workSent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tnhiker55 Posted November 29, 2021 Share Posted November 29, 2021 Both back together. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyErnie Posted January 10, 2022 Share Posted January 10, 2022 Update on my tweeter issues: Left tweeter was buzzing when a strong ~200hz tone got played. Picked up some replacements (doesn't matter what they is...) and that's buzzing as well. can make it buzz by tapping on the front baffle under the lower 8". (It also did the same crunching with a strong ~200 signal. The voices on MPR are really good at making it happen.) Brace the front baffle to the back? Is there something I should look for inside the horn itself? the new driver buzzed when i bumped it on the baffle while installing, saw that as kinda weird... Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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