EpicKlipsch Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 Hello, there are Epic CF-4 for sale but it is quite a drive. The serial number is: 222594466 So I guess they could be series 2 or 3? I would buy them if they were 2 because I am using Subs anyway. Is there a way the seller can find out without disassembling the speaker? 1 Quote
Shiva Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 38 minutes ago, EpicKlipsch said: Hello, there are Epic CF-4 for sale but it is quite a drive. The serial number is: 222594466 So I guess they could be series 2 or 3? I would buy them if they were 2 because I am using Subs anyway. Is there a way the seller can find out without disassembling the speaker? I would say with that serial #, that they are version 2's. The 1st and 2nd series have grey drivers and grey horns. The 3rd series have black drivers and a black horn. 1 Quote
EpicKlipsch Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 Hi Shiva, here are two pics from the seller but unfortunately it's a bit dark to see anything concrete I guess. 1 Quote
Shiva Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 Though a bit dark, I do see a grey cast to the drivers. Version 2's. Ask the seller to measure the depth of the ports just for more info. If the price is right and you want them, I say, go get em. 1 Quote
EpicKlipsch Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 Of course I want them. I will then have 4 pairs of Epics. 3x CF-3 and 1x CF4, 1x KV-4 Center and 6x KI 102 (Atmos) for a nice 9.1.6 Atmos System (currently running KLF-10 as back surrounds). 😁 1 Quote
Shiva Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 That sounds like a rockin Epic system. 👍 One I would like to see. Pics please. 1 Quote
EpicKlipsch Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 Will try to take some but its all dark and in a treated room with velvet. Not much too see. 😉 1 Quote
Shiva Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 As we all await pics, 😀 how do you have the Epics set up? 3 CF 3's across the front or the CF4 as a center? Call me curious. 1 Quote
EpicKlipsch Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 No CF4 yet that is the one I want to buy. Quote
DirtyErnie Posted January 26, 2022 Posted January 26, 2022 I'd say you have a problem, but if this is wrong I don't wanna be right. 1 1 Quote
krell101 Posted February 20, 2022 Posted February 20, 2022 I have a C4 V3 the crossover wire are different . One is made 95 and one is 96 Would it affect the sound ? Also I marked one picture it’s different color . Quote
avguytx Posted February 20, 2022 Posted February 20, 2022 The question is....can YOU hear a difference in them or is it something that you "think" you hear a difference in them because they're slightly different? Quote
krell101 Posted February 24, 2022 Posted February 24, 2022 How do you remove the front panel ? i saw this picture on this thread and I don’t see any screws in front . Quote
avguytx Posted February 24, 2022 Posted February 24, 2022 15 hours ago, krell101 said: How do you remove the front panel ? i saw this picture on this thread and I don’t see any screws in front . Pull the 6 rubber cups where the speaker grills attach and the screws are behind those. 1 Quote
LORDROOTMAN Posted March 7, 2022 Posted March 7, 2022 I compare my epic system less than $10k to Jay set up over $300k 1 Quote
Maximus89 Posted March 7, 2022 Posted March 7, 2022 Do yall think 7watts to 25 watts solid state is enough for a CF-4? I love my vintage Accuphase gear, but it all gets very hot in my small room. Looking to get a barely warm to the touch small amp that has a warm or romantic sound to it. Probably asking a lot since i know low watt class A amps run very hot. I think my p360 runs in class a to a certain point? Also my c280v preamp is class A and gets hot. My DC-91 gets warm on the vent, but i can live with that. Quote
Shiva Posted March 7, 2022 Posted March 7, 2022 I have tried quite a few low power amps with my CF3's. I've had a 5 watt to 30 watt tube amps, 8 watt Class T amps. A couple of Topping T amps, spec'd at 50 watts at 4 ohms and 25 at 8ohms. I have a Class D amp now from Nobsound that uses the TP3255 chip, that says 300 watts per side, but is nowhere near that. They all sounded really nice on the Epics and of course the Class T and Class D amps stay cool to the touch. This is what I have now. https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Power-Amplifier-Stereo-Desktop/dp/B08GQL6BJJ/ref=sr_1_31?crid=XOQA59DVM6JD&keywords=nobsound+tp3255&qid=1646689752&sprefix=nobsound+tp3255%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-31 1 Quote
Maximus89 Posted March 7, 2022 Posted March 7, 2022 Here is what i am considering. http://sparkler-audio.com/portfolio/products_en.html There's the little integrated 'Ether' with 7watts. Then there's a physically larger 25wpc stereo amp with volume control and 2 small 25wpc mono amps and a separate preamp offered. The CD and DAC are interesting and i might even want that Tuner just because of how beautiful it is. Kazutoshi Tsukahara used to work with 47 Laboratory. These are all very simple designs and i don't know how they will pair with the not so simple DC-91 dac which i plan to have extensive mods done at a later date. I've also found several preamps i have tried actually hold the DC-91 back and the dac ends up sounding far superior directly to an amp(the c280v matches well but runs too warm to hot and i don't need phono which is adding extra heat), but the DC-91 starts to reduce bits as you go lower in volume... and so an amp with volume directly to the DC-91 for only digital sources might be an option. The negative to that approach is no remote control which i have missed so much since i sold my SS Macs and the Sparkler Audio remotes are so retro and super cool looking. I also can't tell you what Class amps they are? Seems something i would know before purchasing. I'm also considering a vintage Mcintosh MC250 w/ 50wpc. I have experience with ss Macs and they ran very cool to the touch. I haven't heard the vintage first solid state amps they built, but apparently they're great. 1 Quote
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