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On 9/2/2021 at 4:41 PM, nmorris43 said:

Can anyone tell me what type of thread is needed for the feet of CF4's? Mine came with no feet, just the inserts to thread feet or spikes into.

 

Thanks in advance.

The spikes on my CF-3's are 1/4-20, verified with a thread checker

 

I've also used these on some CF-2's since I bought the speakers without any spikes: https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton-Audio-DSS3-SN-Satin-Nickel-Spike-Set-4-Pcs.-240-678

epic_spike_thread2.jpg

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I've read through all 48+ pages of this thread over the last few years but wondering if it's been asked or done.  Has anyone bypassed the passive crossovers and gone completely bi-amped using a separate electronic crossover/EQ?  I know there has to be equalization built into the passive network for the HF based on djk's comments in this thread.  (RIP)

 

I wonder if that information could/would be divulged by @Chief bonehead or maybe it could be reverse engineered.  Using an electronic crossover would prevent the amps from wasting their time/power playing ranges that aren't needed by each amp, of course.  Maybe if the LP and HP sections could be bypassed, or just rebuilt separately, it would be possible.

 

Or maybe it's not even worth it?

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1 hour ago, avguytx said:

Has anyone bypassed the passive crossovers and gone completely bi-amped using a separate electronic crossover/EQ?

Yes; currently trying something like this. In my case CF-3 V2's with added JBL 2446H compression drivers on an 11x18 JBL horn (low cutoff 500hz). Haha; just love 2" outlet horns :) 

 

The CF-3's (supposedly) have a 1500hz crossover, so setting my LF at 1100hz (just a guess but it certainly should "eliminate" the CF-3's horn - and too lazy to disconnect it). HF filter is set at 550. Both have a 24dB slope.

 

So; guess you could use a 1500hz LF and HF crossover and it should work without a problem. (FYI, I am using a Xilica which is probably overkill - miniDSP 2x4 HD should be enough.)

 

Cheers, Emile

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I get all of that but if I were to feel the need to change drivers out for others, I would just build a new pair of speakers and go DIY.  I'm not wanting to re-invent the wheel with the CF-3's where all that's left are cabinets, I just want to effectively bi-amp in the best, most efficient, way and keep the original drivers.   Those EQ circuits are in there for a reason and would have to be compensated for going electronic crossover/eq which may be more work than I care to get into.  

 

Mainly, I want to spend more time listening to music versus chasing rainbows and unicorns.  ;)

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4 hours ago, mds3017 said:

Selling a pair of cherry CF-3 in excellent condition. Unmodified. Located in Virginia.

 

You might post that in Garage Sale area and not here. Was that the pair on e b a y that just sold a little while ago, though?

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In case anyone is interested.  The guy who first started touting the differences in the Epic series, stating that version one is best, has recently posted on this forum.  He started the thread "Levinson and Klipsch."   Also, with a somewhat provocative posting.   

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Update on the CF4 upgrading. Been real busy the past week or so, finally got back to the CF4's. Got the cross brace added for the DH-1506 drivers for the tweeters. Also got the cabinets sanded down and stained. I will be starting the finish on them tonight.

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Update on the CF4 upgrading. Been real busy the past week or so, finally got back to the CF4's. Got the cross brace added for the DH-1506 drivers for the tweeters. Also got the cabinets sanded down and stained. I will be starting the finish on them tonight.
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Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job?

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1 hour ago, Maximus89 said:

Does the back panel pop off with a rubber mallet? My CF4 back panels are loose and haven't had a chance to go in and reglue and brace. Easy job?

 

You'll have to knock them pretty good to get them to separate.  Make sure you start in the area where they are the most loose and it helps to use a flat metal paint scraper and smack that into the seams, too.  Once you get an area going, it just goes easier.  I did my last pair of CFD-3's and also a pair of KLF-30's with the same issue.

 

Here's some inside pics. I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place.  Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha.  All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in.  

 

 

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I still contemplate building a pair of new front baffles from stacked 3/4" MDF and making them a WWT setup.  The main thing stopping me is that I don't know if there's equalization built into the crossover for the D'Appolito WTW setup.  It might be a waste of time as I sit far enough back from them (14 feet) that they open up quite well.

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You'll have to knock them pretty good to get them to separate.  Make sure you start in the area where they are the most loose and it helps to use a flat metal paint scraper and smack that into the seams, too.  Once you get an area going, it just goes easier.  I did my last pair of CFD-3's and also a pair of KLF-30's with the same issue.
 
Here's some inside pics. I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place.  Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha.  All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in.  
 
 
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Perfect. Exactly what I needed. Thanks a lot man!

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I have CF-3 version 1's in black that I am likely to sell here in Houston, TX($$$ undecided). I planned on keeping them with my Cf4s and kv4 for a 5.1 but hard times and things didn't go as I planned for my living situation.

The CF-3s sound just as great as the Cf4s with a slightly smaller scale, and id be happy with just them but the Cf4 v. 1 is so hard to find and I love the cherry, ill stick with the Cf4s unless I got an offer too good to pass on. They do need to be reglued in the rear and the woofer dust caps have glue residue from previous owner replacing them.
Anyway, the CF3 have been in storage in a garage for a year. One top had a spill or something where the black finish came off from previous owner- plus other bumps and bruises you see with speakers this age, so they're up for a refinish. Also no spiked feet and plastic foot covers.

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Hi everybody,

I own CF4's in medium oak veneer and I'm looking to renovate the oak veneer of my CF4's V1. One side is very damaged. This is because of a move and i need to replace the veneer in full. I'm not a specialist of wood but does anyone know the type of veneer, white oak, red oak or other ? These speakers are the apple of my eye and If anyone knows it, i'm interested. I also wanted to know where i can buy, if you have an address ?... 

Thank for your help.

Edited by MISTER K
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21 hours ago, avguytx said:

I made a glue block all the way around the back side which was glued/screwed into place.  Then, the back panel dropped in, was clamped in place, and also screwed in. Those biotches aren't ever coming out. Ha.  All screw holes were pre-drilled before going in. 

I just realized you added that glue block for the panel to sit into, is that really necessary? How does the panel sit in the cabinet originally?

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