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1 hour ago, alanhuth said:

Why would you take the trouble to post an opinion and then say if someone has a different opinion, you couldn’t care less?  How old are you?

Yes thats true, and what a mature karen response of you 😆

But still i aggre with u so i removed that.

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1 hour ago, Lazarus Long said:

Does anyone have a working K-63 driver available?? 

If you want to go start a topic with a wanted to buy in garage sale in the title. Just edit the one you have started there or a new one.

Thanks and welcome!

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Hey guys,

 

I just just acquired a set of CF3 version 1 that just don't sound quite clear.  Drums, mid bass and cymbals sound ok -cymbals a little hot but voices nasally, midrange and voices sound very recessed overall.  The drivers are in good shape and do not distort so I dont think the issue is there.  This is in both speakers and have tried multiple upstream amps, preamps and integrateds.  I am going to line the back of the horns with dynamat.  Any other mods suggested?  I have read about bracing etc but they are solid as a rock.  I have some Forte II that I did Crites Crossovers and Ti tweeter diaphragms and braced- because I could get in easy- and they sound amazing.  Looking to recap these and just wondering what caps you all would suggest for what look like poly caps underneath the top shelf, and what looks like electrolytics on the top shelf.  (These are stacked on top of one another on the terminal cup)  The values of the top are 40uf 100v 5%, and 25uf 100v 5%.  The caps below are 4.0uf 250DC, 3.25uf 250DC and 15uf 250DC.  Also I cant seem to find a 3.25uf cap.  Would a 3uf be sufficient?     After all the glowing reviews,  I just cant imagine that these CF3 V1s should sound like this and I am hoping a recap will help.  Would you replace the electrolytics with film caps or put some modern erse lytics in there?  or does anyone have experience with something that worked well for you?  Let me know what you think.  I have double posted this by mistake on the 2 channel forum... not the best at this stuff.  Thanks in advance!!

 

 

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4 hours ago, srowe said:

Hey guys,

 

I just just acquired a set of CF3 version 1 that just don't sound quite clear.  Drums, mid bass and cymbals sound ok -cymbals a little hot but voices nasally, midrange and voices sound very recessed overall.  The drivers are in good shape and do not distort so I dont think the issue is there.  This is in both speakers and have tried multiple upstream amps, preamps and integrateds.  I am going to line the back of the horns with dynamat.  Any other mods suggested?  I have read about bracing etc but they are solid as a rock.  I have some Forte II that I did Crites Crossovers and Ti tweeter diaphragms and braced- because I could get in easy- and they sound amazing.  Looking to recap these and just wondering what caps you all would suggest for what look like poly caps underneath the top shelf, and what looks like electrolytics on the top shelf.  (These are stacked on top of one another on the terminal cup)  The values of the top are 40uf 100v 5%, and 25uf 100v 5%.  The caps below are 4.0uf 250DC, 3.25uf 250DC and 15uf 250DC.  Also I cant seem to find a 3.25uf cap.  Would a 3uf be sufficient?     After all the glowing reviews,  I just cant imagine that these CF3 V1s should sound like this and I am hoping a recap will help.  Would you replace the electrolytics with film caps or put some modern erse lytics in there?  or does anyone have experience with something that worked well for you?  Let me know what you think.  I have double posted this by mistake on the 2 channel forum... not the best at this stuff.  Thanks in advance!!

 

 

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I have tried a Classe cap100 100WPC integrated, a Adcom 555ii and a Schitt Freya Preamp along with a few other tubed preamps and a fully restored Scott 222c.  They might just not be a fit for my room.  They are in a basement with cinderblock walls covered with a vinyl B- Dry system on the walls and on cement slab floor with carpet.  There is a bass suckout for sure down there.  For my HT setup I have 2 ultimax 18 sealed subs to compensate for that.  But I digress....  Doing a lot of experimenting - with them pointed straight ahead they are too hot and somewhat nasal sounding and with them aggressively toed in they sound somewhat better but then recessed in the mids and highs.  Room treatments would probably help but really was expecting much more.  My Forte II and some DIY speakers I have made sound better in the same spot.  Might just go with dynamat on the horns and recap the crossovers to see what that does.  Might lug them upstairs to another room and see if its just a real issue with my room.  any insight would be great.  Thanks!

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Change out the electrolytics first. ERSE pulse X or CDE motor-run caps are bang-for-the-buck film options.

 

Capacitance value shrinks, ESR rises, both let too much treble into the woofers. That was the most noticeable change on my similar vintage KG2.5s. 

The CF2s hadn't gone that bad yet.

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Do what your budget and soldering skills are comfortable with, any new parts will be an improvement. Film would be a slightly bigger improvement.

Please do one speaker, then listen to both. The difference is important to know.

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2 hours ago, srowe said:

Just so I am clear, I do want to replace those electrolytics with one  the film caps options you listed and not just new electrolytics?  Thanks!

Was just wondering if you have gotten enough watts to power them. Looks like you do.

Thanks!

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4 hours ago, srowe said:

Just so I am clear, I do want to replace those electrolytics with one  the film caps options you listed and not just new electrolytics?  Thanks!

 

keep in mind that using poly caps where the electrolytics are probably wont fit,  a 40uf poly cap is very large compared to the lytics & will require some manipulation to get them to fit.  in that section the lytic caps are fine as they are just a "dump" for the woofer section, the ERSE electrolytic caps will do fine there, the real improvement in sound is for the mid & tweeter caps if the originals are indeed bad or out of spec. 

 

i will refrain from claiming the stock caps need to be replaced without actually testing them or suggesting a specific brand, since some on here get all bent out of shape if you dont use "authorized" klipsch caps or the whole "they arent klipsch anymore" thing...  however, with the age of the caps & your experience in the sound it does indicate the caps are falling out of spec & would benefit from replacing with your choice of brand. there are better quality caps out there than what klipsch used & if you stick with the same values they will still be correct specs & should improve the sound if what youre hearing is related to bad caps.

 

as for the 3.25 cap, 3.0 would probably be ok as its so close to the 3.25 based on the 5-10% tolerance but ERSE does make a 3.30 poly cap that is even closer to the 3.25. i have used ERSE poly & lytic caps in many speakers including klipsch of this era & they sound very good & improved the same symptoms you described on a pair of chorus 2 i recapped.  they were suggested by Bob Crites as a very good budget cap that he said measure very good, he uses erse lytics in all his crossovers & kits & their other parts like inductors & resistors.  

 

best of luck bringing these cf3s back to how they should sound.    

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On 5/29/2021 at 7:49 AM, SWL said:

For years I've always kept a lookout for a nice pair of CF-4's with no luck.I heard them years prior and was totally impressed.

A friend of mine scored a flawless pair of cherry CF-4's. They looked and sounded awesome. That is, until we compared them side-by-side with upgraded 30's. The difference in sound quality was not subtle. The 30's had:
1. Crites xovers
2. MAHL tweeters/DE10 drivers
3. A55G mid-drivers
4. Ciare woofers
5. Cabinets sealed and braced
6. Mogami jumpers

It was like comparing Palladiums vs. KG's. Keep in mind the CF-4'S were all original. Despite all the comparisons, the KLF-30's with the above mentioned upgrades/mods are in another league.

What's also interesting is how similar the upgraded 30's sound compared to the new Cornwall lV's I demoed. Similar in how smooth and non-fatiguing they play. It's good to know that the improvements made with the Cornwall IV's were similar to the improvements with the KLF-30 upgrades. The biggest difference was in the tweeters between the two. If you're unable to EQ the DE10's, they are on the hot side. Very clear and smooth but hot. EQ takes care of it at 5khz.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
 

 this aint a klipsch KLF 30 no more , and this is the perfect example of ripping the guts out of a klipsch speaker - call it a Crites-MAHL-John Allen -Clare speaker version 1,   and you'd be right -

 

 

 

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Re-reading your problem description, I'd bet 95% of the trouble would go away with replacing the electrolytics. My CF2.5s had very similar issues, and that's what had the biggest effect on getting the sound 'right'.

Changing the poly's to Sonicaps, changing to the TI diaphragms really just changed the 'color' of the sound more than 'improved' it.

 

But they were some very nice 'color' changes...

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 this aint a klipsch KLF 30 no more , and this is the perfect example of ripping the guts out of a klipsch speaker - call it a Crites-MAHL-John Allen -Clare speaker version 1,   and you'd be right -
 
 
 
Sounds good. That's what I'll call it.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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13 minutes ago, RandyH said:

 this aint a klipsch KLF 30 no more , and this is the perfect example of ripping the guts out of a klipsch speaker - call it a Crites-MAHL-John Allen -Clare speaker version 1,   and you'd be right -

 

 

 


"This is my Grandfather's axe.
My father replaced the handle, 
I replaced the head, 
This is my Grandfather's axe."

😁

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If loving you is wrong, I don't want to be right...
LOL. That can be the new name of my speakers.....or sumthin like that.

Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk

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7 hours ago, RandyH said:

 this aint a klipsch KLF 30 no more , and this is the perfect example of ripping the guts out of a klipsch speaker - call it a Crites-MAHL-John Allen -Clare speaker version 1,   and you'd be right -

 

 

 

Yep

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