tube fanatic Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 It seems that there's a great deal of interest among Klipsch speaker owners to try a low power tube amp to get a first hand experience of what all the excitement is about. At the same time, I'm hearing a lot of "I don't know if I can do it" comments as well. So, to take some of the edge off, here's a link to part 1 of Steve Deckert building his Zen Triode amp. I suggest that everyone interested watch the entire series which he has up on Youtube. It will acquaint you with the tools used, as well as basic point to point wiring techniques. If you can solder decently (and there are dozens of videos online showing you how- it just takes a little practice), and have reasonable mechanical skills, you too can build an amp. And just think of the satisfaction you will have the first time you power up the amp and get treated to the best sound you have ever experienced with your Klipsch speakers! Can you imagine that this is possible with an investment of only around $300? It will make you wonder why you spent a fortune on commercial solid state gear. After watching the videos, post your questions and concerns. There are enough builders on here now to easily take you through any part of the build process you want more information about, or need help with. There's no reason to vacillate any longer- just jump in and do it! Maynard 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyOwn Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 It seems that there's a great deal of interest among Klipsch speaker owners to try a low power tube amp to get a first hand experience of what all the excitement is about. At the same time, I'm hearing a lot of "I don't know if I can do it" comments as well. So, to take some of the edge off, here's a link to part 1 of Steve Deckert building his Zen Triode amp. I suggest that everyone interested watch the entire series which he has up on Youtube. It will acquaint you with the tools used, as well as basic point to point wiring techniques. If you can solder decently (and there are dozens of videos online showing you how- it just takes a little practice), and have reasonable mechanical skills, you too can build an amp. And just think of the satisfaction you will have the first time you power up the amp and get treated to the best sound you have ever experienced with your Klipsch speakers! Can you imagine that this is possible with an investment of only around $300? It will make you wonder why you spent a fortune on commercial solid state gear. After watching the videos, post your questions and concerns. There are enough builders on here now to easily take you through any part of the build process you want more information about, or need help with. There's no reason to vacillate any longer- just jump in and do it! Maynard Beautiful Maynard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Always wanted to build something. Maynard, what would you recommend for an integrated amp between 20 & 50 watts ? I know you are more interested in fleawatt but i do like to turn up the dial sometimes and right now i don't have super efficient speakers like i once did. Probably be using these inside with some Chorus II's & THT sub. Oh yea, i would prefer some pre-outs if at all possible to ease the sub integration. Really enjoyed the MC-240 i heard at the last local gathering, thought it was the best of the bunch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyOwn Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Always wanted to build something. Maynard, what would you recommend for an integrated amp between 20 & 50 watts ? I know you are more interested in fleawatt but i do like to turn up the dial sometimes and right now i don't have super efficient speakers like i once did. Probably be using these inside with some Chorus II's & THT sub. Oh yea, i would prefer some pre-outs if at all possible to ease the sub integration. Really enjoyed the MC-240 i heard at the last local gathering, thought it was the best of the bunch. Yeahhhhh I think 25 Watts would be perfect...I too like loud....My SOB can do 15, it sounds great at the 12 oclock position on my GG but much past the 12 position it starts to peter out...I'm thinking a 25watt per channel Stereo PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schu Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 But how do I keep from killing myself? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MyOwn Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 But how do I keep from killing myself? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ski Bum Posted November 13, 2015 Share Posted November 13, 2015 Maynard, question for you, if you can discern the answer from the videos. In the sixth or seventh video he's installing a bias switch on the input. This seems a bit odd, assuming there is one particularly ideal part choice given that particular tube and the circuit it's in. Could you explain what he's doing? Is this to facilitate input tube rolling from the 6n1p to other options? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube fanatic Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 Hey guys! What happened to low power for around $300? Jason, I'd check out the kit offerings by Bob Latino: http://www.tubes4hifi.com/bob.htmFor the money he charges for complete kits, with a pre-drilled chassis, I doubt you could save anything by doing a total diy version of one of the Dyna amps.Here's a paper Deckert wrote about the Zen triode in which he mentions the front panel bias switch, and the schematic (scroll all the way down to the bottom) which shows the values selected by the switch to change the bias of the driver. By changing the operating point of the tube, its distortion characteristics will be somewhat different which can affect the sonic signature somewhat:http://www.decware.com/paper17.htmhttp://www.decware.com/zsowner.pdfNow, let's hear from some of the guys interested in flea power!!! Maynard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Now, let's hear from some of the guys interested in flea power!!! I am interested in "flea power" !!! "Flea power" on steroids that is WooHoo - getting super excited about my custom build from Tool Shed 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike stehr Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 I remember email conversations with my retired EE friend Dan, whose main interest at the time was audio. He would explain the difference between listening to a solid state amplifier all day, compared to a tube amplifier. Something to the regard of first turning it on, and cranking it up a bit for some time, which eventually gets fatiguing. So things get turned down, and eventually becomes background music or turned off. Where a tube amplifier would get listened to all day and enjoyed at good modest levels, and would regret having to turn it off to go to bed at night. I find a good tube amplifier, (single-ended for my taste) connects myself more to the music than solid state. If that makes any sense... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 For the "New" builders looking to get their feet wet in the world of electronics, there is a youtube video for 99% of questions involving soldering assembly. Figure out what you need (not much) and shop the Bay for tools needed. Do not fear jumping into this, easier than you think. Wealth of info and masters on this forum, you will never be alone. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 the rule to always remember is that you heat up both materials being soldered enough to melt the solder I was taught that you put the heat opposite of the solder so the heat has to travel through said items before solder melts. At least, this is how I remember it from 8th grade electric shop class. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coytee Posted November 14, 2015 Share Posted November 14, 2015 Heh, when I soldered my first XLR connectors (after not having soldered for like 30 years), the XLR metal "shells" (that the wires go into) got hot enough that they melted the surrounding plastic and started wobbling around. oops! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube fanatic Posted November 14, 2015 Author Share Posted November 14, 2015 A simple technique which I've used with guys new to soldering is to have them buy a bag of terminal strips, some #22 wire, and a bunch of cheap resistors and caps. They then practice until they are making really good connections. This usually happens by the time they have made 25-30 joints (no, not that kind!). When I was in the circuit board department at the power supply company, most of the assemblers were hired with absolutely no clue about how to solder! By the end of their first month most were able to do very detailed, tiny, surface mount work with ease. As with any other skill, it's just a matter of practice. For those who have concerns about electrocuting themselves, the builders on here can easily guide you through working with high voltages in a very safe manner. If proper techniques are employed there is little concern.Maynard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxJPMxx Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 This usually happens by the time they have made 25-30 joints 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minermark Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 Heh, when I soldered my first XLR connectors (after not having soldered for like 30 years), the XLR metal "shells" (that the wires go into) got hot enough that they melted the surrounding plastic and started wobbling around. oops! And that folks, IS "Part" of THE LEARNING CURVE. One MUST, melt the surrounding plastic a time or two. One MUST, apply so much heat for waaay to long in order to "Lift" the printed circuit off the board! One MUST, reverse a cap or two, and least let's not forget those dam Diodes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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