Tarheel Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 Would like to do the bass porting for these..... 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Tarheel, about the only way to port those would be to add a 10" hi box underneath the bass cabs, similar to those of Full Range. I assume that there is access to the woofer from the bottom. That way you could also remove them if you don't like them. BB built those from scratch, didn't he. Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 Under 100Hz, an LS acts more like a direct radiator... Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarheel Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) Tarheel, about the only way to port those would be to add a 10" hi box underneath the bass cabs, similar to those of Full Range. I assume that there is access to the woofer from the bottom. That way you could also remove them if you don't like them. BB built those from scratch, didn't he. Bruce Yes Bruce....my bud bluesboy built those in his shop around 2007. 1" mdf, Altec horns and drivers, Beyma baby cheeks.. Al came up with a xover plan and bluesboy built those as well. Edited May 1, 2016 by Tarheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 I'm in Atlanta until later today. I have a couple ideas to toss out there if you wouldn't want to add so much height to those cabs. They are so great looking as they are. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthews Posted May 1, 2016 Share Posted May 1, 2016 now I have real incentive to get them DONE! You have these done yet, Bruce? Been three days, surely you are near complete by now? ...all kidding aside, look forward to your progress Matt ♪ ♫ ♪ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 1, 2016 Author Share Posted May 1, 2016 (edited) I have no workshop, minimal tools, looking for a job, downsizing a paid for storage unit (this means sorting through one box at a time, so i don't throw out something important).Really, not having horns to use with the current drivers was making me lazy. Now I have no excuse to not finish them. Edited May 1, 2016 by Marvel 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 4, 2016 Author Share Posted May 4, 2016 (edited) So... progressing slowly. Horns from Mark will be here tomorrow. One of the cabinets I have is a clone, and the only reason I noticed (besides no Klipsch label on the back) was because the top piece of the cab was rotated 90 degrees. Anyway, it is built well, but there are no T-nuts to mount the woofer. The woofers were only held in by wood screws, and I don't want to continue that mounting scheme. I'm cutting some plates to mount the woofers to that will be able to be bolted in, a little tricky to reach around the back of the doghouse to get the bolts mounted but I've thunk it over for too long. Also, since I am porting these cabinets, does anyone think there would be a great difference in sonics to port out the rear compared to forward? Bruce Edited May 4, 2016 by Marvel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 You still live the same place? I could bring the tweeters by some weekend and hook them up to see if you could hear the difference. I made no crossover changes. No, I live in Lakesite, now, a little north of the old place. I have a set of Dave's wooden tweeter horns and B&C DE-120s, but haven't hooked them up. If you'd like, I'd live to try your experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 (edited) Bruce, I am glad you finally are able to get this project up and running. Things are looking good, keep the pics coming. Bruce and John, since you have both posted here. Maybe you can touch up on our DHA2 crossover design. I remember reading a post about it a while back. However I do have a few questions that weren't quite answered in those post. The most important one is. How universal is this design? I ask as I have some Belle bass bins I have built, and am using a few different horn and drivers for the mid/hf section. Second, are the parts readily available here in the U.S.? Last time I was going to take a wack at building a pair of Al's networks. The shipping alone was going to kill the deal. If the parts can be had low cost, and they could be used some what universally. I wouldn't mind giving them a try. All of the parts are available through Parts Express, except the autoformer. However, Hovland is no longer in business, so you will need to buy Solen caps, or another film and foil cap. DHA is my brother's initials. If I built a set using K-77 tweeters, I'd build DHA3s. The smaller tweeter cap reduces a bump in the response of the K-77 around 6k to 8k. Since the K-77 is really a 105 dB/w/m driver, the bulb and resistor form an L-pad in addition to tweeter protection. If you use Bob Crites' tweeters, or similar, you can use the DHA2 and maybe we'll need to adjust the 65 ohm resistor. With 6 dB filters, the crossover point is not sharply defined, so while it calculates 400 Hz, it should work quite well in a Belle, as long as the squawker is 16 ohm. While set for a K-55-V at 107 dB/w/m, the autoformer taps can be adjusted without changing the other components because the swamping resistor creates a relatively stable impedance to the squawker filters. If you deviate much from 12 ohms DCR/16 Ohms impedance and 107 dB, we need to check the values. The design follows a philosophy I found back in college, I think. It stated that each crossover point needed similar, and both, low pass and high pass filters to maintain phase through the crossover point. If it has any advantage, that might be it. The design was initially done to replace Type AL crossovers and would be used with tube amps. When brother found out what tube amps cost, he changed his mind and we added the tweeter protection. Edited May 5, 2016 by John Albright 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 5, 2016 Author Share Posted May 5, 2016 I would have to go back over mine to see what I actually built. Dean made a change, and we left off the tweeter protection. Whatever, they sound superb with my k55 mid, but right now I have those EV 1828R, which are supposed to be 8ohm. I need to check, but the dcr was higher, so they may had had the diaphragms changed by a previous owner. John, send me a pm, and we can work out a time. I'll have to work out directions, too, lol. Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 6, 2016 Author Share Posted May 6, 2016 The k400s arrived from Mark... the truck wasn't out of the driveway before I had them inside. Phone rang, my wife's sister in law, visiting her youngest son, who is working in Atlanta, had a stroke this afternon. We're back in Atlanta at Emory Hosp. Midtown. Her son was working from home, and lives only three blockc fom the hosp. Here from the Philippines, kinda puts a damper on the rest of the vacation plans. Thoughts and prayers are always wecome and appreciated. Bruce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Thoughts and prayers are always welcome and appreciated. Will do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 Been busy over the weekend, but the K400 horns arrived from Mark. These are in beautiful shape. I can understand one of the reasons for changing to the composite material for these horns - they are really heavy! Bruce 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 If you haven't put them in, yet use a hair dryer and wrap at least the rear 2/3rds with Dynamat, or rope caulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 If you haven't put them in, yet use a hair dryer and wrap at least the rear 2/3rds with Dynamat, or rope caulk. Rubberized undercoating works as well, takes time using many coats but looks better. Quiet coat works too but costs more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Quiet coat works too but costs more. I need some of that for my Jeep. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Highly, highly, highly recommend putting blue painters tape down first.....that stuff is impossible to get off, and a huge mess if you put it straight on the horn. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prerich Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Mine aren't going to look like that... speaker envy! I will probably paint these. Would love to pretty tthem up with veneer, but at this point I am more interested in listening to LS again Bruce To make things interesting...and not that expensive - You may want to try a vinyl wrap on these. It's removable but it can also last a long time. When you want to go back to natural wood - or if you are looking to sell - you or the buyer wont have a difficult time getting the vinyl off Just a thought. Vvivid is the brand name the have a site online. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason str Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 Highly, highly, highly recommend putting blue painters tape down first.....that stuff is impossible to get off, and a huge mess if you put it straight on the horn. Never had a mess myself. Lay the horn mouth down on some scrap cardboard and tape off the threaded end and spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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