pzannucci Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 Nice job. Are you also putting a 3/4" piece on the cross brace to hold the back in place more firmly? The back is the key area that could use some help though would require screws through the back and that extra piece across the back panel. It would help with the sound significantly (for the box that is). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 CEC and Don thanks for the compliments. The back is removable and I will have two additional screws though the back into the horizontal brace. Didn't consider the window pane brace because there is very little connection room on the front inside baffle because of the closeness of the woofer and mid horn. Also the mid driver is in the way. You can see the woofer pencil line and the mid horn are very close in the middle horizontally. Lot easier to do on a Cornwall. I'm sure that there is a better way but I wanted to make sure I could remove/install woofer. Should add some good stability front to back. The back is so thin that it vibrates a lot. Thanks for the inquiry. Here is the latest pic after applying one coat shellac and one coat gloss wipe on poly yesterday. I'm tinkering with an idea using a K-77D horn front with an bolt to screw on adapter connected to an EV 2005 screw on tweeter driver. It will fit in a Heresy if the tweeter hole is widened by 3/16" each way. Inserts from the back side. Driver is sweet sounding. May not use on this set for could in the future. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 CEC and Don thanks for the compliments. The back is removable and I will have two additional screws though the back into the horizontal brace. Didn't consider the window pane brace because there is very little connection room on the front inside baffle because of the closeness of the woofer and mid horn. Also the mid driver is in the way. You can see the woofer pencil line and the mid horn are very close in the middle horizontally. Lot easier to do on a Cornwall. I'm sure that there is a better way but I wanted to make sure I could remove/install woofer. Should add some good stability front to back. The back is so thin that it vibrates a lot. Thanks for the inquiry. Here is the latest pic after applying one coat shellac and one coat gloss wipe on poly yesterday. I'm tinkering with an idea using a K-77D horn front with an bolt to screw on adapter connected to an EV 2005 screw on tweeter driver. It will fit in a Heresy if the tweeter hole is widened by 3/16" each way. Inserts from the back side. Driver is sweet sounding. May not use on this set for could in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 CEC, I think I missed the point of your question and now I think I get it!! DUH ME!! Upon further consideration I am considering applying a horizontal brace across the two round vertical braces and glue/screw to the round verticals and pocket screw glue to the sides. That should provide some rigidity to the sides without taking up much cabinet space. Good suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Emile Posted April 19, 2018 Share Posted April 19, 2018 @longdrive03 ... AWESOME veneering job; matches perfectly. (Just did a subwoofer so know it's not as easy as it looks.) Congrats Cheers, Emile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Thanks Emile I appreciate the compliment. Veneering can be hard but I enjoy it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 On 4/19/2018 at 4:16 PM, longdrive03 said: CEC, I think I missed the point of your question and now I think I get it!! DUH ME!! Upon further consideration I am considering applying a horizontal brace across the two round vertical braces and glue/screw to the round verticals and pocket screw glue to the sides. That should provide some rigidity to the sides without taking up much cabinet space. Good suggestion. Glue and screw a vertical piece maybe 6 inches or so to each side. Make it maybe 6 by 2 by however thick your scrap stock is. You can then make your span brace a quarter inch or so shorter than the actual side to side span. The shorter span will make it easier to install as you won't be trying to wedge a brace in that's the exact same size as the opening. Screw and glue the span to the vertical pieces you've already installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Similar to these side to side braces I used in this sub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Looks good. I'm going to put a horizontal side to side cross brace and bolt to the round front to back dowels to add some stiffness. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted May 7, 2018 Author Share Posted May 7, 2018 Took a short break from this project for other stuff. Nearly finished just need to rub down poly and wax, stretch grill cloth and install sealer foam and speakers. Should have ready within a week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhound Posted May 27, 2018 Share Posted May 27, 2018 Bump for an update???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted June 25, 2018 Author Share Posted June 25, 2018 Update. Just list days and garage sale form for sale. Couldn’t attach final photos from my iPhone but will post tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 I had an idea for the grills and front Veneer. When I did the restoration on my HIP I noticed there is actually a plywood spacer/motorboard that sandwiches the grill against the inside of the motorboard and the driver mounts to that. Here is a photo of it outside the cab. The original was wrecked and I ended up duplicating it with a router: It probably wont be too hard to find a similar grill that you could use and either find an HIP to pull apart and create a copy or just measure out a new one. That way you could trim the motorboard flush and have a beautiful veneer and still protect the woofer. Anyway, great job on the speakers! This is the type of craftsmanship that I aspire to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasD. Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 On 6/25/2018 at 2:57 PM, twk123 said: I had an idea for the grills and front Veneer. When I did the restoration on my HIP I noticed there is actually a plywood spacer/motorboard that sandwiches the grill against the inside of the motorboard and the driver mounts to that. Here is a photo of it outside the cab. The original was wrecked and I ended up duplicating it with a router: It probably wont be too hard to find a similar grill that you could use and either find an HIP to pull apart and create a copy or just measure out a new one. That way you could trim the motorboard flush and have a beautiful veneer and still protect the woofer. Anyway, great job on the speakers! This is the type of craftsmanship that I aspire to. I realize those were factory installed on the HIP's but would there be any negative' acoustical effects' from a metal grill over the woofer on other models? I know that over on the 'Polk" forum any metal (I'm making the assumption that those are metal) near any of the drivers is frowned upon. I'm asking as the prospective new owner of @longdrive03 project H1's. I would love to show off that gorgeous motor board but have 4 Italian greyhounds that find the woofer excursion of my subwoofers irresistible to resist. Your grill idea would sure save me a lot of worry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Share Posted June 27, 2018 TWK that grill looks great! How in the world did you make one with a router???😳. Great job! TD your going to have to train the greyhounds:)! Assume you will put them on the floor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasD. Posted June 27, 2018 Share Posted June 27, 2018 2 minutes ago, longdrive03 said: TD your going to have to train the greyhounds:)! Assume you will put them on the floor? One of their traits is that they are almost un-trainable for many things. Those are slanted risers on the H1's I believe, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longdrive03 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Share Posted June 28, 2018 Yes slanted risers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seti Posted June 29, 2018 Share Posted June 29, 2018 Gawd dang those are incredible!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twk123 Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 On 6/26/2018 at 9:48 PM, longdrive03 said: TWK that grill looks great! How in the world did you make one with a router???😳. Great job! TD your going to have to train the greyhounds:)! Assume you will put them on the floor? Thanks LongDrive! It was a fun project to restore it and add in the amp etc to make it an 'active' speaker. The previous inner board was damaged on one side but I was still able to use it as a template with my duplicator bit. Here is a photo of the setup. The old board is on the top and the new plywood sheet being cut to shape is on the bottom. Here is a link to the build thread with some additional photos: On 6/26/2018 at 8:40 PM, ThomasD. said: I realize those were factory installed on the HIP's but would there be any negative' acoustical effects' from a metal grill over the woofer on other models? I know that over on the 'Polk" forum any metal (I'm making the assumption that those are metal) near any of the drivers is frowned upon. I'm asking as the prospective new owner of @longdrive03 project H1's. I would love to show off that gorgeous motor board but have 4 Italian greyhounds that find the woofer excursion of my subwoofers irresistible to resist. Your grill idea would sure save me a lot of worry. I am not sure on this but it is definitely something that should be taken into account. I know with the sealed standard Heresy's you are going to lose some internal volume by moving the woofer back but I dont know how much that will affect the box tuning. @HDBRbuilder will be able to give a more definitive answer on the effect of a metal grate and the new position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted July 2, 2018 Share Posted July 2, 2018 On 6/26/2018 at 9:40 PM, ThomasD. said: I realize those were factory installed on the HIP's but would there be any negative' acoustical effects' from a metal grill over the woofer on other models? I know that over on the 'Polk" forum any metal (I'm making the assumption that those are metal) near any of the drivers is frowned upon. I'm asking as the prospective new owner of @longdrive03 project H1's. I would love to show off that gorgeous motor board but have 4 Italian greyhounds that find the woofer excursion of my subwoofers irresistible to resist. Your grill idea would sure save me a lot of worry. It is not "metal" near the woofers that is the issue, it is IRON or STEEL....because they are (or can become) magnetic. The original grilles used aluminum for the grill material...non-magnetic. I had a "curious" cat, So I had the "industrial motor-boards" installed on my "flame twins" while I still worked at Klipsch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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