Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 I haven't used them much at all since I picked them up from the seller a month or so ago. This morning I turned on the amp that feeds them, and the midrange was almost completely gone on both speakers. After roughly 3-4 minutes, the squawker on the left side came on suddenly. The right came on another 3 minutes later. Could this be bad caps on the crossover? Or could it be that the diaphragms on both were frozen in place until I pushed enough power through them to "unstick"? Now that they are running, they sound perfectly fine. All drivers are running as they should be! Do I need to add new diaphragms for both of the K-55's to my list, since I am preparing to do the "Super Heresy" upgrade from @ClaudeJ1 ? Or do you think that this issue will go away when I replace all the caps? Thanks in advance! O Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 It is VERY unlikely to be bad caps, though yours are likely old and have increased resistance. You do NOT need new diaphragms, unless a voice coils has burned out. The most probable cause is a loose connection, or maybe a connection at the crossover has built-up corrosion. Loosen and retighten all of the connections on the crossover and inspect the connections at the squawker driver. Since you have HIs, last made in about 1985, It would be a good idea to replace your capacitors with good film and foil capacitors. It is an easy DIY job if you have a soldering iron and a hot glue gun. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlthess40 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 What capacitors would you recommend for rebuild on the H1’s crossovers Please tell me the brand name and the value of the capacitors I’d like to do my H1’s as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 25 minutes ago, carlthess40 said: What capacitors would you recommend for rebuild on the H1’s crossovers Please tell me the brand name and the value of the capacitors I’d like to do my H1’s as well I would say to read this thread first. That's where I am going with my own H1's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Since your issue was with BOTH speakers, it would make more sense that there might be a connection issue at the amp, or at the input to both speakers. Are you sure that they are connected in phase? Is the balance or volume pot on your amp/preamp dirty/noisy? Just some thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Something like this: https://www.parts-express.com/audiocap-ppt-theta-20uf-200v-film-foil-capacitor--027-724 https://uptoneaudio.com/products/musicap-film-and-foil-capacitors https://www.partsconnexion.com/film-capacitors.html I am partial to Musicaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, jimjimbo said: Since your issue was with BOTH speakers, it would make more sense that there might be a connection issue at the amp, or at the input to both speakers. Are you sure that they are connected in phase? Is the balance or volume pot on your amp dirty/noisy? Just some thoughts. The right speaker is working correctly, 50hz up through the high end. Two issues that I see. The mids that I heard on the left speaker were simply coming out of the woofer. In order to check polarity, I pulled the back off, and made sure that the interior wires were correct, which they are not. It appears that someone was rewiring this speaker in the past, and wired the squawker and tweeter backwards from the schematic, hot to hot instead of 180 out. The wiring from the back door to the crossover, and all internal wiring is an off white casing, red stripe on one side, black the other. It has burgundy crimp connectors, and does not look to be factory to me, but this is the first time I've cracked one of these open and really looked at it. Is the wiring from the xover to the drivers factory? Here is what the crossover and wiring looks like: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlthess40 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 Thanks JohnAFor the links for new capsI don’t want to turn my H1’s into something else I like the way they are, I have subs for all the lows I need. The super H looks pretty cool and I may do that with another set of H1’s when I find a set. But the ones I have now I’ve owned for over 20 years and my wife would kill me if I need anything that major to themFor now I just want to update the caps on the type E crossovers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlthess40 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 The H1’s have the mid and high wired out of phase Here’s a pic of my crossover type E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 10 minutes ago, Oicu812 said: The right speaker is working correctly, 50hz up through the high end. Two issues that I see. The mids that I heard on the left speaker were simply coming out of the woofer. In order to check polarity, I pulled the back off, and made sure that the interior wires were correct, which they are not. It appears that someone was rewiring this speaker in the past, and wired the squawker and tweeter backwards from the schematic, hot to hot instead of 180 out. The wiring from the back door to the crossover, and all internal wiring is an off white casing, red stripe on one side, black the other. It has burgundy crimp connectors, and does not look to be factory to me, but this is the first time I've cracked one of these open and really looked at it. Is the wiring from the xover to the drivers factory? Here is what the crossover and wiring looks like: The white wires with black and red broken lines on them are what was used at the factory when they were made. You need to remove each connection and clean them all and then pur them back. You ALSO need to remove the wires from the stock rear panel connectors and clean them and put them back TIGHT. Over time as the rear panel shrinks in thickness, the connections on that rear terminal can become loose...and numerous people on the forum have found that out. Simple fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 If you look at the last picture I posted, there is a strange wire, completely bare, that runs under some of the negative posts. It goes the entire length of that small connector strip: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 BTW, I really appreciate you all for taking the time to assist me in this. This is a fantastic forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 36 minutes ago, carlthess40 said: The H1’s have the mid and high wired out of phase Here’s a pic of my crossover type E The out-of-phase wiring should be identical on both speakers...that is why that particular network is called the "E" network...they reversed the polarity of the tweeter and the midrange in relation to that of the woofer, and called it the "E" type network. Here is a link to the particular "Dope from Hope" describing the reason for the change to the type "E" network: Dope from Hope, Volume 15, No. 1, dated 1 May 1975: http://assets.klipsch.com/files/Dope_750501_v15n1.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark1101 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 It looks like the OP has the input wired backwards (red connected to ground). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, Oicu812 said: If you look at the last picture I posted, there is a strange wire, completely bare, that runs under some of the negative posts. That should be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 minute ago, CECAA850 said: That should be there. Thanks for the info. It is definitely a learning curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted June 18, 2018 Share Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, mark1101 said: It looks like the OP has the input wired backwards (red connected to ground). 2 hours ago, Oicu812 said: If you look at the last picture I posted, there is a strange wire, completely bare, that runs under some of the negative posts. It goes the entire length of that small connector strip: 1 hour ago, CECAA850 said: That should be there. 1 hour ago, Oicu812 said: Thanks for the info. It is definitely a learning curve. The bare wire is the "common" connection sometimes referred to as ground. The black terminal or ground of your amplifier should be going there. So is your input wire hooked up correctly as mark1101 alluded to that it maybe backwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oicu812 Posted June 18, 2018 Author Share Posted June 18, 2018 7 minutes ago, babadono said: The bare wire is the "common" connection sometimes referred to as ground. The black terminal or ground of your amplifier should be going there. So is your input wire hooked up correctly as mark1101 alluded to that it maybe backwards? The inputs appear to be backwards as well as the squawker and tweeter. This is going to take a careful rewiring, following Claude’s schematic exactly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlthess40 Posted June 19, 2018 Share Posted June 19, 2018 If you like. II can take some very good closeup photos of my H1’s type E crossovers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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