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Alessio

MISSION IMPOSSIBLE or "How to open a LSI bass bin?"

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The pic is the lower side of the La Scala Industrial's bass bin, but i guess you know that. 😎

 

I understand the cover is sealed to be airtight, the problem is i can't see how to get inside with a putty knife and remove the gasket material…

 

I could use a lever, but i'm quite afraid of damaging the wood…

 

How is someone supposed to open this mystery box?

 

bass-bin.jpg

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I remember I had to pry mine open pretty hard


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Remove all the screws, then run a larger screw into one of the holes so the threads bite good.  Then lay a wide(-enough) putty-style knife down flat on the not hatch and use a prying tool against said knife to lift that larger screw.  That's the first method I'd try.

 

Hope you find your missing crossover bits in there!

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8 hours ago, glens said:

Remove all the screws, then run a larger screw into one of the holes so the threads bite good.  Then lay a wide(-enough) putty-style knife down flat on the not hatch and use a prying tool against said knife to lift that larger screw.  That's the first method I'd try.

2

 

Yeah, that definitely sounds like a way to do it, thanks!

Actually, the first thing i tried was to pull two of its screws at halfway their paths, but that way i just couldn't give much force on it.

I didn't consider a larger screw and leveraging on it.

I'll try what you say asap (hopefully during the week, but most likely this weekend).

 

Since we're at it, any alternative ideas? To put more meat on this thread.

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A friend of mine just suggested using a large suction cup (which he says he has).

That sounds fine, and definitely not invasive, i'm just not sure it will work on an irregular surface like this…

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11 hours ago, Maximus89 said:

I remember I had to pry mine open pretty hard

 

 

How did you do it exactly?

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Get one of those big suction cup for glass at harbor freight https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-diameter-suction-cup-40993.html?_br_psugg_q=suction+cup

Or pry metal sliders off ..easy... then put screws there and pull up then you can put sliders back or I would get some grippers if speakers sit on smooth type floor.  

The bigger question why do you want to get in there those look like new Scalas ????

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The big suction cup sounds like a great idea, but the rough surface could be challenging to get a good seal. Prying is an option but damage to the wood is very possible, either the cover or cab. If they use some form of putty or sealant from the factory, it will probably be pretty difficult to pry off cover without damaging the cover and cab.

 

Let me preface I don't own this cabinet, nor have I ever attempted to open one but I do have an alternate idea. Since it is the bottom of the bass cabinet and is rarely seen, I would purchase a single sturdy pull handle attached by two wood screws. I know you are in Italy and may not have a Home Depot, but surely you have access to a hardware store. I would attach this handle about 40 mm from the edge of the access panel then use handle to open. If you cannot do it with just your arm strength, you could also pry against it (handle opening) using a extra large screwdriver or a lever of some type (crow bar or metal rod), using a block of wood to protect the cabinet where your pry bar contacts. Once you have it open, remove the handle and re-insert the 2 screws. You can use the handle on the other bass cab hatch too. When you purchase the handle, also purchase 2 extra attachment screws as they usually just come with just 2. If you are really attention oriented, you could apply as small amount of rtv silicone sealant to the screws to completely seal when re-inserting after removing handle.

Hopefully I have presented my idea sufficiently here.

 

Drill an appropriate pilot hole for the handle screws before insertion. 1/16" min (1.6 mm), but based on the diameter of the screws. Not too large on the pilot hole tho.

 

In the end, you will have two extra screws in each access hatch, on the bottom of bass cabinet. Big deal. Link to the the handle I'm describing/proposing below. Handle could be a bit larger, but you get the idea.

 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Hammercraft-3-1-2-in-89mm-Center-to-Center-Black-Front-Mount-Drawer-Pull-P93000C-BL-C5/100146770

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2 hours ago, ricktate said:

The bigger question why do you want to get in there those look like new Scalas ????

 

 

this is why (mine is obviously the one on the left…):

crossover.jpg

 

But that's a different story. And a different forum thread ;)

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/184013-la-scala-industrial-split-version-how-to-connect-the-hi-mid-module-to-the-low-module/

 

Anyway, i'm taking notes. 🤓

Every idea is interesting.

 

I like the handle one quite a bit. Great point.

Edited by Alessio
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How did you do it exactly?

IIRC I just pried it open as hard as I could without damaging the wood with a metal putty knife bc the plastic wasn’t strong enough. Remove the screws first of course. Of course if you’d rather be more careful than me, there are better ways.


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I have used a hair dryer on the hottest heat setting.  Once you get it started it's not too bad.

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Or listening to the guys who have opened the cab, maybe attaching a single screw drawer pull handle close to an edge and using a wide blade putty knife to pry on the hatch.

Then its just one extra hole.

 

If we keep collectively brainstorming on this, we just might come up with a way to levitate that hatch off.  I got it....take all the screws out and play some low bass test tones @ a good volume and blow/dislodge that cover off! A loop of 30-100 hz test tones and let physics do its job. I have a mp3 file of sub test tones.

This is a sealed bass driver cabinet, si?

 

 

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Done.

 

I went for the handle solution.

It was pretty easy, the gasket material isn't sticky at all, so i didn't have to pull too hard.

 

Maybe even a 'softer' solution would have worked just fine.

 

Now i'm left with two extra screw holes, anyway, they are barely visible from the inside.

I'll just use some wood stucco or something like that to completely close them.

 

Thanks again for your help guys.

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5 hours ago, polizzio said:

I got it....take all the screws out and play some low bass test tones @ a good volume and blow/dislodge that cover off! A loop of 30-100 hz test tones and let physics do its job. I have a mp3 file of sub test tones.

2

 

Too bad i've read this just now.

 

I'm pretty sure that would have worked too 🤣

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On 5/27/2019 at 6:36 PM, glens said:

Remove all the screws, then run a larger screw into one of the holes so the threads bite good.  Then lay a wide(-enough) putty-style knife down flat on the not hatch and use a prying tool against said knife to lift that larger screw.  That's the first method I'd try.

 

Hope you find your missing crossover bits in there!

 

Would have worked like a charm...  This ain't my first rodeo.

 

13 hours ago, Alessio said:

Maybe even a 'softer' solution would have worked just fine.

 

Now i'm left with two extra screw holes, 

 

Yep, and a handle.

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14 hours ago, Alessio said:

Done.

 

I went for the handle solution.

It was pretty easy, the gasket material isn't sticky at all, so i didn't have to pull too hard.

 

Maybe even a 'softer' solution would have worked just fine.

 

Now i'm left with two extra screw holes, anyway, they are barely visible from the inside.

I'll just use some wood stucco or something like that to completely close them.

 

Thanks again for your help guys.

Did you find your missing x-over parts in the bass bin? 

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The other thread says there was solely the woofers inside.

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51 minutes ago, glens said:

and a handle.

 

 

I already had a looks-like-an-handle part in the garage, so no handle left, fortunately 😎

 

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A $1.50 handle has some peeps seriously worried. I bet that missing XO capacitor and transformer will cost way more than $2.

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