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Painting K-510


Coytee

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Paint is still sticky, just finished about 20 minutes ago.  It's gassing off indoors so the bugs don't walk on it and get embedded.  Still at risk of my cat's nose getting imprinted however, I'll know who did it should that happen.

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I like the color, I also like the idea of camo. I have toyed with the idea of painting flames (do you remember hot rods from a few decades ago ...). 

Don't listen to me but I have also toyed wth the idea of leopard skin grill cloth. It's also fairly insane. 

 

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I forget the name of the paint...  it's from PPG.  Can't thin it with paint thinner....need something stronger, forget the name but it's something like Zylene (?)

 

Anyway, the paint supposedly doesn't need a primer.  Can go on naked metal.  Dries to touch in 5-7 minutes and can respray second coat within (something like 2-hours.  If you don't make it that soon, you then have to wait something like 36 hours.

 

I don't know, I'm not a painter!!  

 

Since horn was already painted, I sanded entire thing down with 400 grit and had at it.

 

If it's a fail, I can always sand it again.  If it works, then great.  Meanwhile, it's going to end up back in the closet so it really won't matter much to me how it works out.

 

In part, what I was doing was seeing how it would look.....  might talk to the wife about her thoughts on those 402's.....

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12 hours ago, PrestonTom said:

(do you remember hot rods from a few decades ago ...).

 

Yep.  Growing up, my dad had (an original) 1910 Hupmobile.  I would sit in it as a 9 year old and "vroom" down the street in my imagination and it would have a huge gnarly engine in front with flames everywhere.

 

Change to reality, you start the car and you get a soft "putt putt putt, sputter, sputter, putt putt..._"

 

The Hoover cleaner had more vroom to it than the car did but, boy.....in my mind......

 

 

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3 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

You a painter pete?

Been a builder for over 30 years and a close friend of mine that is a pro painter, turned me onto this about 6 years ago when I was building my kitchen cabinets and rescuing some maple cabinet doors and drawer fronts that were already clear coated and it worked amazing and I've used that product for a ton of projects ever since, including priming right over bonding epoxies, it's great stuff. I also do my share of painting with a HVLP sprayer, but regular brush and roller stuff, only for my own home, I can't stand to do that type of painting.  LOL

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14 minutes ago, Pete H said:

Been a builder for over 30 years and a close friend of mine that is a pro painter, turned me onto this about 6 years ago when I was building my kitchen cabinets and rescuing some maple cabinet doors and drawer fronts that were already clear coated and it worked amazing and I've used that product for a ton of projects ever since, including priming right over bonding epoxies, it's great stuff. I also do my share of painting with a HVLP sprayer, but regular brush and roller stuff, only for my own home, I can't stand to do that type of painting.  LOL

Nice.

As a kid right out of school I worked in two wood shops, one was doing kitchen cabinets. Started just staining and painting but then became a top coater. Kinda got back into it a few years back refinishing some herseys and then most recently La scalas. 

 

What I found works great (depending on what type top coat) for home. Brush/roll on the first few coats (or more depending how you want it). Then for the final coat use the spray can (same kind in spray can recommended). This way no brush marks or uneven ness. You can always skip the spray can and do the rub finish tech I guess (I do this with the spray can as well). 

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Just now, Heritage_Head said:

Nice.

As a kid right out of school I worked in two wood shops, one was doing kitchen cabinets. Started just staining and painting but then became a top coater. Kinda got back into it a few years back refinishing some herseys and then most recently La scalas. 

 

What I found works great (depending on what type top coat) for home. Brush/roll on the first few coats (or more depending how you want it). Then for the final coat use the spray can (same kind just in can recommended). This way no brush marks or uneven ness. You can always skip the spray can and do the rub finish tech I guess (I do this with the spray can as well). 

The final finish on cabinets/furniture/speakers etc.  is why I got into HVLP and have sprayed everything from latex, lacquer, poly, stains with wonderful results and spray cans when I'm doing epoxy projects.  Fun stuff.

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