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Need to lengthen the speaker cables


M4verick

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1 hour ago, M4verick said:

 

I'll try gaffers tape if I can find some.  I live in a small town and finding something like that might prove to be tricky.

 

As for going the whole route with the shrink wrap material... again, due to the small town I live in, I'm not sure I can find that kind of stuff readily.  I had thought about using regular electrical tape but that kind of stuff tends to get gooey after a while which is why i was hoping for a different solution.  I think the gaffers tape might be my best bet.  Thanks.

Gaffer's tape is like electrical tape, but is cotton cloth they coat and apply adhesive too, and you are correct, it doesn't tend to get gooey like electrical tape does. You can get it on Amazon, and you can use electrical tape until it arrives to be able to use it sooner rather than later.

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  https://www.purehockey.com/product/renfrew-cloth-hockey-tape-1-5-inch/itm/3616-2/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOfY-8auy6At8kJ7glBVwCZb-vDvCxNNghy2Ov8HgmoHJYrAU3IxwZQaAjcoEALw_wcB

 

fabric bandage tape from any pharmacy would work. I have a small box of all sizes of heat shrink, but the black gaff tape still works an is fairly invisible when the cable is behind a desk, etc.

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5 hours ago, Marvel said:

If you buy heat shrink tubing, you can use a smaller diameter size for each connection and a longer piece to slide over the whole thing. IIRC, it's a polyolifen, with a reasonably low temp point to cause the shrinkage.

 

Electrical tape will work, but I find it tends to come loose as the adhesive ages, and is gooey. Since it doesn't carry much current, I have been known to use gaffers tape, which is a black fabric.

 

Heat shrink tubing of the right size works really well and I use it a lot for wire splices on crossovers. If you are worried about capacity of your wire just step the new section up one or two gages and you will be fine. I think anything that frees you from having to buy new by reusing what you have on hand means you can fix things right away. Or change things and not wait for delivery. There are also butt crimp connectors that would work but I prefer solder for what you are doing.

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38 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

I’m sorry, what? Lighten up dude.

 

Sorry, but your blabbering about dog training and recommendation against splicing cables ( despite your complete ignorance about the speakers I bought) classify you as a class 1 know-it-all ignoramus.

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2 hours ago, dwilawyer said:

3. When splicing it is usually better to go with same size, but it's not essential, however, as stated earlier by someone, you want to always go larger. From the charts below, if it is fact 22 gauge,

 

I've verified from the information published on Klipsch website it is indeed 22.

 

2 hours ago, dwilawyer said:

3. What are the speakers rated at, 8-ohm? If they are 8 ohm then up to 32' for 18 ga. wire and you are going to be fine. 

 

I've tried look up the infromation regarding the Ohm load - but I can't find it anywhere.  I also downloaded the technical spec (PDF file) hosted on Klipsch website.  Unfortunately, no information on that.  Looks like I'll have to give their 800 support line a call on Monday morning.

 

2 hours ago, dwilawyer said:

By the way, I like that you are thinking about the welfare of the dog, but the current and voltage going through those wires is so small it would be less than you sticking your tongue to see if a 9V battery is good.

 

Got it, thanks.

 

Thanks by the way for the chart - very helpful.

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2 hours ago, Marvel said:

  https://www.purehockey.com/product/renfrew-cloth-hockey-tape-1-5-inch/itm/3616-2/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA2af-BRDzARIsAIVQUOfY-8auy6At8kJ7glBVwCZb-vDvCxNNghy2Ov8HgmoHJYrAU3IxwZQaAjcoEALw_wcB

 

fabric bandage tape from any pharmacy would work. I have a small box of all sizes of heat shrink, but the black gaff tape still works an is fairly invisible when the cable is behind a desk, etc.

 

Very nice. Thank you for this helpful comment.

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11 minutes ago, M4verick said:

 

Sorry, but your blabbering about dog training and recommendation against splicing cables ( despite your complete ignorance about the speakers I bought) classify you as a class 1 know-it-all ignoramus.

You must have missed the part where I said, enjoy, or, have fun or, they are terrific computer speakers… Oh well, make sure to come back when you have more complicated issues with something other than a three wire system.  Name-calling and personal attacks do not go over well here. But then, considering your personality, I guess that doesn’t mean much to you.

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4 hours ago, M4verick said:
5 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

Didn’t realize they were hardwired. Disregard all my other comments other than training the dog… LOL

 

Shish, you sound like a know it all person.  So toxic...  I see you're in the habit of doling out advice on products you don't even know about.

Post a picture of the pup and call it good.

I have had a few sets of the PM2.1. Impressive for what they are and it only gets better from here. 

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50 minutes ago, Dave A said:

Heat shrink tubing of the right size works really well and I use it a lot for wire splices on crossovers. If you are worried about capacity of your wire just step the new section up one or two gages and you will be fine. I think anything that frees you from having to buy new by reusing what you have on hand means you can fix things right away. Or change things and not wait for delivery. There are also butt crimp connectors that would work but I prefer solder for what you are doing.

 

Agree fully, Dave. If you can't replace the whole length with new wire, making soldered splices with heat shrink o er them is the next best.  I hve seen an installer use some twelve gauge 4 wire cable, and split it into a left right after about 40 feet by using wire nuts. That was a good 25 yrs ago. I imagine it's still working or they've upgraded the whole system.

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10 hours ago, jimjimbo said:

Do not splice.  Get new appropriate length cables.  Use the same gauge as was supplied.  Train the puppy.  Have fun.  Enjoy, they are terrific computer speakers.

I agree with this.  While differences in wire can usually be subtle, Who knows what kind of odd combined effects you'll get if you have a double pathway of odd wires.  I also agree these are fine speakers.  

 

While you're at it, try sticking a Dragonfly into the circuitry if there's a USB port to take it.  You don't have to do any more than that -- no extra DAC'e, added amp connections or whatever.  The Dragonfly seems to substitute some superior DAC circuitry into the works, without extra hooking up, and it sounds clearer, more musical to me the places I've tried it.

 

--Larry

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9 hours ago, LarryC said:

I agree with this.  While differences in wire can usually be subtle, Who knows what kind of odd combined effects you'll get if you have a double pathway of odd wires.  I also agree these are fine speakers.  

 

While you're at it, try sticking a Dragonfly into the circuitry if there's a USB port to take it.  You don't have to do any more than that -- no extra DAC'e, added amp connections or whatever.  The Dragonfly seems to substitute some superior DAC circuitry into the works, without extra hooking up, and it sounds clearer, more musical to me the places I've tried it.

 

--Larry

OP says these are hard wired in and wants to splice because of this. Plain old stranded copper wire to more of the same will not effect his output signal at all.

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I agree with Dave @Dave A,  Bruce @Marvel, @Pondoro, and all others who recommended splicing in stranded wire of equal or larger gauge using solder and heat shrink tubing; smaller tubes on the individual wires and a larger tube over the whole splice.  Solder the connections.  Avoid the quickie connections used to hook up U-Haul trailer lights.  I use an alligator clip to hold the tubing away from the connection while soldering.  The clip also acts as a heat sink to prevent the tubing from shrinking prematurely.  As a 72 year-old, I’m all too familiar with premature shrinkage (cue rim shot).  

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