dtr20 Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 Any suggestions on removing the dog house panel? The panel is flush mounted, so I can't really pull out, I can only use a flat head to pry to the side.Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geezin' Posted September 2, 2021 Share Posted September 2, 2021 New toilet plunger? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted September 2, 2021 Author Share Posted September 2, 2021 Looks like 1980 was a transition year for Klipsch drivers. The speaker I cleaned up today had a k55v with push terminals and a k77 with a square magnet.I was able to get 2 dog house panels open so far, both had k43 woofers. I also tightened up the screws to the woofers.Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted September 3, 2021 Share Posted September 3, 2021 On 9/1/2021 at 8:58 PM, dtr20 said: I'm just now seeing this. The cabinets are painted black and it's textured. Definitely plywood, not sure if there's fiberglass on top of that, but don't think so. I would say they are not fiberglassed. I've never seen glassed cabs witbout aluminum trim. They look great! Would love a pair to haul to parties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 On 9/2/2021 at 11:55 AM, dtr20 said: Any suggestions on removing the dog house panel? The panel is flush mounted, so I can't really pull out, I can only use a flat head to pry to the side. Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk I’d suggest using a very wide paint scraper to get the woofer access panels off. The reason to use that is to reduce the chances of doing damage to the panels. A screwdriver is narrow and will allow you to apply a lot of force to a very small area of the plywood panel. Wood is much softer than metal, so it’s very easy to put in deep marks that will have you swearing. A scraper is wide, up to 4”/100 mm, so the force is spread over a larger area. This means that, hopefully, you’ll get the panels to come off with little or no damage. You could even use 2 scrapers, but get the stiff ones. The really bendy scrapers are just annoying and are more likely to mark up your panels. Don’t forget to buy some new weatherstrip (the closed-cell type that doesn’t breathe, because you don’t want any air leaks. It’s usually black. The white stuff usually breathes and is useless in this application.) to seal the panels back on, because the old weatherstrip is probably falling apart and needing to be replaced completely. Good luck! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 Oops. Double post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Don’t forget to buy some new weatherstrip (the closed-cell type that doesn’t breathe, because you don’t want any air leaks. It’s usually black.Do you have an example of this? Is this good? Check this out at AmazonSeal Foam Tape,1/2 Inch W x 1/8 Inch T Weather Stripping for Door and Window,High Density Single Sided Closed Cell Door Insulation Weather Strip,2 Rolls 16FT Long Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNW8QR1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6CQ0PXSM8EQN39G4KNBB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 I would vote for the wider tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 9 hours ago, Islander said: I’d suggest using a very wide paint scraper to get the woofer access panels off. suggested this very same thing in a PM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 Before gouging up the cabinet or the panel with metal tools, after removing all the screws, I would put a large screw into one of the back corners, and pull on that (use slide hammer, if available). Even if you end up drilling a hole large enough to accept a toggle bolt, it can be easily filled, more easily than cleaning up putty knife, or screwdriver, gouges. Good luck and please let us know how it goes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Islander Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 11 hours ago, dtr20 said: Do you have an example of this? Is this good? Check this out at Amazon Seal Foam Tape,1/2 Inch W x 1/8 Inch T Weather Stripping for Door and Window,High Density Single Sided Closed Cell Door Insulation Weather Strip,2 Rolls 16FT Long Each https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MNW8QR1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6CQ0PXSM8EQN39G4KNBB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk Yes, that's the right kind of material, but you'll want to wait until you get at least one panel off before you order any, so you can see the thickness and width that the factory used to seal the panels. As you can see, it comes in quite a wide range of widths and thicknesses. For best adhesion, you should use alcohol to clean away all the sticky glue residue. 70% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol should be equally good. You just want to get the glue area as clean as possible. That rubbing alcohol is also great for cleaning connectors and cable ends before attaching connectors to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 Ok thanks. I've been able to open 2 panels so far using the putty knife method. I'll pay better attention during the next one to figure out what to order. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 16 minutes ago, dtr20 said: Ok thanks. I've been able to open 2 panels so far using the putty knife method. I'll pay better attention during the next one to figure out what to order. Thanks Lascala 1 sit low to the ground , and humidity transfers from the floor which acts on the plywood - with 2-3 inches pine or MDF boards , you can fabricate some risers , paint them black , that raises the speaker ,and avoids scratching the bottoms , plus it looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 Just now, RandyH said: Lascala 1 sit low to the ground , and humidity transfers from the floor which acts on the plywood - with 2-3 inches pine or MDF boards , you can fabricate some risers , paint them black , that raises the speaker ,and avoids scratching the bottoms , plus it looks great Actually, these hung from the ceiling by chains for the last several decades! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 2 minutes ago, dtr20 said: Actually, these hung from the ceiling by chains for the last several decades! cool , the sides and tops were saved from scratches or dings , and there are no visible holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dtr20 Posted September 6, 2021 Author Share Posted September 6, 2021 cool , the sides and tops were saved from scratches or dings , and there are no visible holes Except for the screw holes that the hooks were attached to on the sides. Yea, there's some scratchesSent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 This is a great thread I'm just starting to follow. On 9/2/2021 at 6:16 PM, dtr20 said: Looks like 1980 was a transition year for Klipsch drivers. The speaker I cleaned up today had a k55v with push terminals and a k77 with a square magnet. My 1981 LaScala was similar, then the next year, Klipsch switched the mid driver. He then circled back to the K55. I had the opportunity to ask about the mid driver change, and he simply replied "Quality control" Any further insight on the continual transition (and non transition) of the drivers I find interesting. Best of luck with the project, very interesting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 13 minutes ago, dtr20 said: Except for the screw holes that the hooks were attached to on the sides. Yea, there's some scratches the Screw holes can be filled with wood or wood filler/bondo , Duratex and a small sponge roller , can smooth and fill in any scratches ,unless they are very deep - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 On 9/1/2021 at 6:12 PM, Bubo said: tweeter upgrades, if you have the room the concept I like is the tweeter mounted separately and on top of the unit further back so it more closely aligns with the mid driver. This sounds like a most interesting idea and to me would be more desirable and far easier to implement than other schemes to time align the drivers. Not even sure the effect or if it is necessary, so I really don't know what I'm talking about. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff. Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 On 9/2/2021 at 2:55 PM, dtr20 said: Any suggestions on removing the dog house panel? The panel is flush mounted, so I can't really pull out, I can only use a flat head to pry to the side. Something that usually (always) works for me is to remove all the screws from the panel and then insert a couple of them in the corners and angle them so they catch the panel, then use them as levers to pull the panel off. As if the side without the screws was hinged. Works on the Heresy and Cornwalls with the removable backs nicely too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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