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1979 LaScala (Asking For Advice)


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10 hours ago, Dave A said:

I am working on a horn that will fit where the K-400 does. It is not done nor tested but it is in progress. I have a finished final version 14" x 7" x 6.5" deep horn of stacked Baltic Birch which is awesome but nothing as of yet ready to go for La Scalas unless you want to set the mid horn on top of your cabinet.

Looking forward to seeing what you developed

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On 6/3/2022 at 12:24 AM, estelegalize said:

Here’s a pic for more context. Thanks in advance, hope all on here are well.
 

Salud,

E

 

image.thumb.jpeg.823b62243a78a4a5cc5b1c8c5365ca28.jpeg

 

Welcome to the forum!

 

I purchased a Heresy and Chorus II pair before I got my La Scalas. So when I began modding my vintage La Scalas, I had a little more experience, and went straight to the high quality stuff. If you followed the same simple mods I made initially, your results would be more dramatic, as you have a substantially more advanced audio setup than I started with. You can follow my La Scala upgrades here: 

 

 

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2 hours ago, estelegalize said:
7 hours ago, Marvel said:

Unfortunately I don’t have a windows platform to download the calculator.

What platform are you using?

 

It is just a spreadsheet, and should work fine ib Libre Office's LibreCalc.

 

I can check tomorrow at work. My work desktop runs Linux Mint. I can run some dimensions on a Windows pc with Excel and compare to LibreCalc.

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I’m starting to lean into the idea of building my own crossovers from scratch so as to keep the og’s alone incase I want to return to them. @Rolox really got me interested in Russian PIO caps.
 

A couple things that I keep reading mixed opinions regarding crossovers is the significant difference between Type A and AA. It seems to also be a point of preference depending on listening habits. Secondly, the acceptable uf and v values; 1.8uf or 2.2uf being a stand in for a 2uf cap, or a 6uf, 6.8uf, and even a 12uf being a stand in for the 13uf cap. Also wondering about 160v vs 600v etc, and mix matching v’s: like a 2uf 200v with 6.8uf 100v. @Crankysoldermeister I read a couple of you super old entries along with other users responses that made me wonder about the appropriate uf and v values (idk if values is the right word but I’m using the language I got). 

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6 minutes ago, Marvel said:

What platform are you using?

 

It is just a spreadsheet, and should work fine ib Libre Office's LibreCalc.

 

I can check tomorrow at work. My work desktop runs Linux Mint. I can run some dimensions on a Windows pc with Excel and compare to LibreCalc.

100% MacOS. I’ve been referred to as youngblood before. I’d appreciate the help!

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11 hours ago, estelegalize said:

I’m starting to lean into the idea of building my own crossovers from scratch so as to keep the og’s alone incase I want to return to them. @Rolox really got me interested in Russian PIO caps.
 

A couple things that I keep reading mixed opinions regarding crossovers is the significant difference between Type A and AA. It seems to also be a point of preference depending on listening habits. Secondly, the acceptable uf and v values; 1.8uf or 2.2uf being a stand in for a 2uf cap, or a 6uf, 6.8uf, and even a 12uf being a stand in for the 13uf cap. Also wondering about 160v vs 600v etc, and mix matching v’s: like a 2uf 200v with 6.8uf 100v. @Crankysoldermeister I read a couple of you super old entries along with other users responses that made me wonder about the appropriate uf and v values (idk if values is the right word but I’m using the language I got). 

I would think the calculated values were there for a reason and the closer you stay to the OEM intent the better off you are. So you can't readily find a 13uf cap? A 10uf and a 3uf in parallel will give you that value and the added bonus is two like that will normally have lower ESR then the single 13uf. Higher voltage specs never hurts over OEM requirement and I get the best tolerance ones I can find at a reasonable cost. I can always come up with the exact value specked on the crossover schematic this way and never have to fudge the values.

 

  Building is always fun for me and the only way most of us can afford to try new things. Plenty of help on the forum when you run into trouble.

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It is good to note that if you substitute a higher Capacitance value, the driver will see more low frequencies. Conversely, a lower value will pass less of the low frequencies.

 So if you substitute in a 12uF where the 13uF goes, there will be less overall energy at the 400hz crossover point.

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14 hours ago, estelegalize said:

100% MacOS

Okay, so the question is... do you have ANY kind of office suite on your Mac/s? I guess Numbers still comes with the OS.

 

Everything seems to work fine opening the spreadsheet in LibreOffice Calc. The whole suite is available (free) for both MacOS hardware platforms M1 or Intel).

LibreOffice_Calc.jpg

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TL;DR  So many comments, I'm not sure I will offer much more. 

 

Here's what I do/did.  And I'd recommend in this order. 

 

Place them 2 to 3 feet out of the corner or about 2 feet off the wall. 

 

Add several uber-performance subwoofers, not only for output, but to try to match the La Scala's very low distortion. 

 

Replace the caps with high quality film and foil caps.  They don't need to be $300 each, but it will be expensive. Delete the diodes.

 

Front/flush mount the tweeters to reduce diffraction by the motorboat.  Klipsch made Z brackets and a flanged K-77 to do it.  You can also buy horns that use the excellent B&C DE120 tweeter.  A tractrix tweeter horn will sound better.  Alternately, you can place the tweeters on top of the cabinet, vertically aligned with the squawker parting line; that will approximately time align the squawker and tweeter, the worst time misalignment in the system.

 

Wrap the squawker horn in Dynamat of equal to damp small vibrations.  Then, line the motorboard opening with thick felt or front mount the squawker to reduce diffraction at the mouth.  Felt is cheap and easy.

 

Stuff the upper cabinet with pillow stuffing knock on the top with your knuckles to see why. 

 

Buy DVD-Audio discs.

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  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Update:

Two months after acquiring, I haven’t done any modifications, and I’m satisfied. After finding the best placing in the room, positioned in the corners—kinda like khorns—toed in so that the sweet spot is about a foot or so in front of my face, and tuning my subs to compliment the LS, I’ve just been enjoying the music.

 

Only itch I’ve been having since has been finding a second turntable for my rougher vinyls. 
 

Thanks again to everyone who offered their advice. 
 

🏽

Edited by estelegalize
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4 minutes ago, billybob said:

A linear tt eliminated a lot of scratch pop for me. Have a Sansui and Technics and others made them. Bargains out there.

Funny you mention that, I had just found a Technics SL-M3 online and was considering it. I personally dig the suspended SL models. 

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5 minutes ago, estelegalize said:

Funny you mention that, I had just found a Technics SL-M3 online and was considering it. I personally dig the suspended SL models. 

If at all possible, make sure it is working, or even serviced. Has different neat functions, but I just play each side.

Maybe, not pay too much for it.

Uses P-mount stylus so, you will have some options. Works for me anyway...

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  • 3 months later...

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