Technical/Restorations
Talk about restoring older speakers and other technical/electronic information here.
24294 topics in this forum
-
- 1 reply
- 142 views
-
- 1 reply
- 142 views
-
- 1 reply
- 142 views
-
- 3 replies
- 142 views
-
- 0 replies
- 142 views
-
- 2 replies
- 142 views
-
- 4 replies
- 142 views
-
- 3 replies
- 142 views
-
- 1 reply
- 142 views
-
- 2 replies
- 142 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 2 replies
- 141 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 4 replies
- 141 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 1 reply
- 141 views
-
- 0 replies
- 141 views
-
- 1 reply
- 140 views
-
- 1 reply
- 140 views
-
- 2 replies
- 140 views
-
- 1 reply
- 140 views
-
- 3 replies
- 140 views
-
- 0 replies
- 139 views
-
Recent Posts
-
I've been pretty happy with: 1. Yamaha AS-701 powering KG 4.2 in the rec room 2. Yamaha AS-501 powering CRF- 2 in my office Also, a MX-1 powering CW III in my main room - really like how the Yamaha electronics match. -
-
-
By Rex Everything · Posted
From the manual: OVERVIEW: The function of the OBH-10 is to provide volume adjustment to your Hi-Fi system from your armchair, via infrared remote control. The unit consists of a passive volume potentiometer, with a motor connected to its control shaft and a two channel relay that can short the signal path to ground to mute it. A microprocessor control circuit can decode infra-red signals transmitted by a separate handset and translate them into commands that will activate the motorized potentiometer and muting relay. The OBH-10 is purely passive and does not introduce any gain or distortion into the signal path. It is therefore suitable to be inserted into the signal path of any piece of audio visual equipment with a suitable signal level. INPUT AND OUTPUT CONNECTION: The input and output connections are Phono (RCA) or Cinch type. These connections are suitable only for regular unbalanced signals (where the signal wire is normally shielded by an outer braid which is at ground potential). It can be connected to an integrated amplifier in the tape loop or between tape output and tape input (activated by selecting Tape monitor). It can also be fitted in the signal path between a preamplifier output and power amplifier input. The integrated amplifier or pre-amplifier's own volume control should then be pre-set to maximum to allow the OBH-10 to take full control of the volume. Alternatively, if the level is too high, set the amplifier's volume control to the maximum level you require and then only make level adjustments through the OBH-10's volume control. This will ensure a smoother range of adjustment. It is also possible to fit the OBH-10 between a source component, say a CD player output, and the amplifier's input, thereby remotely controlling only the source component's volume. -
_cover_art.thumb.jpg.c0b4c25b349e624e5f0fd3008fa1b554.jpg)
Salivation: Is a symptom of a need that will have to be fed and if ignored will cause other negative symptoms such as vinyl throwing, needle ripping and sticking ones fingers into the A/C receptacles. I suggest @Dave1291 to get the system fired up and rather quickly.. it IS detrimental to your health otherwise. -
Welp- may have spoken too soon here. Last night I checked and found that there is no output from the tweeter at all... opend it up, recheked and got 8.2 ohms on tweeter. Found a free tone generator online and set up a 5000 hz tone, got nothing- bypassed the network and went straight to tweeter- yep, its working fine. took the crossover off, brought it in, cleaned all the contacts with cleaner and brass brush- no change. made a jumper wire and went point to point, at the stage where it goes to the first 2.uF cap, it has output at the solder joint, none on the other side; hmmmm ok. Checked capacitance and it shows 2.01 uF. ???? pulled out the soldering iron, re-flowed all the soldered points, no change. Kept playing around and it just comes back to the 2.0 cap set, I have output from the tweeter if I touch the side coming from the terminal block, none on the other side of the cap. Sure seems like the cap has gone bad but it reads 2.01 uF, which should mean its working? Stumped. of course no local shops that carry caps so its parts express I guess, but that is days aways and no sure answer. Any suggestions? -
I do remember one thing It took hours and hours but By the time I was done with it I was so involved, I didn't know what to think I carried it around with me for days and days Playing little games Like not looking at it for a whole day And then.. Looking at it To see if I still liked it I did I repeat myself when under stress I repeat myself when under stress I repeat myself when under stress I repeat myself when under stress I repeat The more I look at it The more I like it I do think it's good The fact is No matter how closely I study it No matter how I take it apart No matter how I break it down It remains consistant I wish you were here to see it I like it -
You guys ^^^^^^^^ keep it up and Imma gonna have to fire up the rig cause I'm salivating! 😂 -
Ok the speakers are KB FB LF and as i did not hear back for days i went ahead and bought a can of Krylon satin black and it matched nicely on the fronts. -
-