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BusaDude

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Everything posted by BusaDude

  1. He must have reposted them... https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/ele/5906209429.html
  2. No affiliation... Looks like a nice pair with original boxes... https://dallas.craigslist.org/sdf/ele/5906209429.html
  3. I wouldn't trade the KLF's for any of the 2-way stuff (including the RF's) Klipsch is selling either... Though I'd love to find some version 1 CF-3/4's.
  4. Why? If you like the bass of the RF series, why not just buy a pair of RF-5's or RF-7's? And putting an "aluminum cone" driver in a KLF-30 is no guarantee of "tight bass"... as the driver material in a woofer has probably the least effect on the overall sound. And yes, you'd need to mod the crossover assuming you could find a driver to fit/work in the cabinet. I own KLF-20's (and have listened to the 30's quite a bit) and wouldn't change anything about them. And with appropriate amplifier power, both will thump you in the chest and shake the walls. Maybe that's not the "tight bass" you're looking for? Just seems like you've already answered your own question, and would be happy with a pair of RF's.
  5. BusaDude

    Help

    It will help if you'll post all of your equipment's brand/model numbers and maybe post a few photos of how you have it connected/setup...
  6. If I had the extra cash, I'd buy it... FYI... You may want to update your post with your location and whether you're willing to ship or not.
  7. You should try one of the free (or paid) VPN services that are available. You can set your location and have your public IP address show up as being in the U.S. This should get around Klipsch redirecting you to the Canadian version of the website. I use the free version of SurfEasy on my mobile phone, (https://www.surfeasy.com/en/) and along with their iOS/Android apps they also have a desktop version. As an example... I live in Texas, but if I set my location to Canada in SurfEasy, then I get the Canadian Klipsch website (see screenshots). But as soon as I set it back to the U.S. I'm back on the regular website. If you want to get around other IP address restrictions and hide your IP address you can also get the Tor browser (Firefox based - https://www.torproject.org/) for the desktop or use their mobile app called Orbot. Either will allow you to set (or hide, depending on your point of view) your "public IP address" (location/country) to get around IP filtering... or websites that track/limit the number of "free" times you visit, before blocking you or routing you to a pay wall. Hope that helps...
  8. There should be a toggle switch in between one set of inputs... These are the "IN" going into the sub and coming from the L/R on your receiver. The other set are the "OUT" going to your speakers. The toggle is a high/low switch that raises the output by 3 dB or so by switching it from 4/8 Ohm.
  9. Here's Bob Crites website... Lots of information and you can get new crossovers/parts from him as well... http://www.critesspeakers.com/crossovers.html
  10. From what I've read, and it's even mentioned on Bob's site in regards to his Type A/4500 crossover, is that the K-55 is starting to seriously drop off by 5.5-6 KHz. The KLF 20/30 mid to tweeter crossover is 7 KHz. Seems like that wouldn't be a good match, unless there is a change to the KLF crossover.
  11. They're nice speakers and when crossed over to a subwoofer, they're capable of quite a bit of output. https://web.archive.org/web/20111127152631/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2-5#second As far as surrounds, another set of KG2.5's or the KG1.5 are a timbre match and will work really well. They still show up fairly often on Craigslist and eBay, so finding another pair would be just as easy as the KSF's mentioned above... Unless you prefer a true bipole/dipole as a surround. For maintenance... Since you mentioned the sentimental value and plan on keeping them. You can get a crossover update/refresh from Bob Crites. http://www.critesspeakers.com/prices-crossover_repair_kit.html He may also offer an updated titanium tweeter diaphragm as well. You can either do the updates yourself or send the crossover to him. If your pair has one of the Oiled veneer finishes, then you should give them a wipedown with some Watco Rejuvenating Oil (available at Home Depot). For the other finishes, just wipe the dust off of them. They didn't come with threaded mounts in the bottom. So maybe your grandfather added those at some point. You'll have to decide what works for you, but since they have a rear port they shouldn't be flush mounted on the wall.
  12. The KG SW is a passive (no internal power amp) bandpass subwoofer. It has dual 8" drivers, with dual voice coils that fire through the ports. The switch is to run it as either 4 ohm or 8 ohm (high or low output) according to the old brochure I have (see attached). It was designed to work with the Klipsch KG 1.2, 2.2, 3.2, 4.2 series of speakers... And it has a fixed 150 Hz low pass crossover. I know nothing about the JBL L5 specs, so I don't know how it would sound crossed over at 150 Hz with those speakers. You would connect it with the speaker wire coming from the left/right channel outputs from your Denon, to the left/right channel inputs on the KG SW. The KG SW's internal crossover then splits off the high frequencies (everything above 150 Hz) and routes them to the outputs on the KG SW. Your JBL L5's connect to the outputs on the KG SW. Here's a link to the specs... https://web.archive.org/web/20111129200037/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-sw I also found an old ad that has some good pictures of the sub here for anyone who is curious... http://www.usedgatineau.com/classified-ad/RARE-KLIPSCH-KG-SW-SUB-SUBWOOFER-BEST-FOR-HERESY-SPEAKERS_27724620.lite? The KG .2 series brochure is attached as a PDF file... Hope it works out for you... Tony tmp_31774-KG X2 Series Brochure2126055801.pdf
  13. If you scroll further down the page it mentions an 82 mm Xmax and 95 mm Xmech...
  14. When Klipsch redesigned their web page they deleted the spec pages for most of the older models. Many members have complained, but they don't seem interested in fixing the problem. And if you do a search, all you really find out is that the model you're looking for has been "discontinued". There is a web archive that has most of the information and you can find links to the speakers and their specs... https://web.archive.org/web/20120121104208/http://www.klipsch.com/discontinued-speakers https://web.archive.org/web/20111219031918/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-1 https://web.archive.org/web/20120127040245/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-1-plus https://web.archive.org/web/20111127152621/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-2
  15. BusaDude

    Oh No!

    Let's just say that on any given Fri/Sat night (late 80's or early 90's for me) I was probably in there having a beer.
  16. First concert... The Cars, Candy-O tour in Austin, Texas 1980 Most memorable... Seeing Pink Floyd 3 times over the years. Momentary Lapse Of Reason tour Nov1987, Reunion Arena in Dallas, Texas Momentary Lapse Of Reason tour Apr 28,1988, Texas Stadium in Irving, Texas The Division Bell tour April 28, 1994, Texas Stadium in Irving, Texas Van Halen's free outdoor show Dec 4,1991 downtown Dallas, Texas
  17. I've never heard the KG 4.2 and only briefly listened to the KG 4 ages ago. But I've always wanted a pair of the KG 4's... Just something about the way they look with the dual 8" drivers up front. And they sound pretty good as well. My guess is that the 4.2, with the Tractrix horn (compared to the exponential horn in the 4) may sound a bit better through the midrange. But I'd still take the KG4. Here's links to the specs for both... https://web.archive.org/web/20120202160015/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4 https://web.archive.org/web/20120928064130/http://www.klipsch.com/kg-4-2
  18. They're both great speakers, but having owned both, I'd choose the Forte II every time. The Tractrix midrange in the Forte II is the deciding factor. The Forte II is also a touch more sensitive and has a larger rear passive radiator.
  19. The add-on for Ad-Block that 2point1 suggested above should be installed. Then check out these links to help disable autoplay and pop-ups... https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/questions/1103127 https://support.mozilla.org/en-US/kb/pop-blocker-settings-exceptions-troubleshooting#w_pop-up-blocker-settings
  20. Since you mentioned they were originally bi-amped and that you've tried both the UMC200 and the AVR4311 with no improvement... Is there a possible problem with the jumpers connecting the LF and HF banana plugs? Were they reinstalled correctly? Are they tight, making good contact, no shorts, etc? Is the internal wiring from the crossover to the woofers correct, not loose, in phase, etc? If that's not the problem, then you should reset the UMC200 (or the AVR4311) to its factory settings and start over with just the KLF 30's connected. I'd then recommend doing a manual setup in the UMC200 for 2-channel only... set speakers to large (no crossover), no subwoofer, enter distances manually and completely skip the EMO-Q auto calibration. Then I'd play a 2-channel only source, such as a CD, with some good bass content and see what happens. If that fixes things, then it was a setup/calibration issue... If not, then I don't know. And you'll probably need someone on site to help out.
  21. A couple of things to consider regarding price... both the KLF and Forte II are covered in wood veneers. Those that are finished in satin black paint, will be at the lower end of the price scale, as opposed to the oiled walnut, oiled oak, medium oak or mahogany finishes. So if the Forte II's are in satin black start your offer closer to $400-$425. Of course, a mint pair in Walnut Oil, with no scratches, dings, water marks or issues with the grilles (no holes, snags, broken pegs) would be worth more. The KLF10 is a really nice speaker as well. And with the dual 10" woofers it will thump right along with the KLF 20 on the low end. However it is a 2 way design... https://web.archive.org/web/20120101175029/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-10 So it doesn't have a separate midrange and tweeter, and crosses over much higher (2300 Hz) compared to the 3-way designs of the KLF20 and Forte II. And unless it happens to be finished in Mahogany and in perfect/mint condition (with original boxes) then it's not worth $425 in my opinion. If it's black satin it's closer to the $300-$325 range. I think nearly everyone would agree that the Forte II is the "better" speaker. And assuming both are in good condition with no issues, it would be my choice between the two. But if both are for sale locally and you can listen to them, and happen to like the sound of the KLF 10, then don't discount it. Particularly if you can get it for $300 or so. And it would still be a huge upgrade from the RB-35.
  22. Personally I'd start upgrading with either the subwoofer or the mains... Subwoofer - For $500 you can find a good entry level sub that would take a huge load off of the RB-35's. But you have a good size room and a $500 sub may not provide the "impact" you're expecting... compared to something in the $800-$1000 range. But, here are three choices from a couple of well known companies including Klipsch, (with return policies if you change your mind), that would be a good place to start. http://www.svsound.com/products/pb-1000 Or http://hsuresearch.com/products/vtf-2mk4.html Or http://www.klipsch.com/products/reference-subwoofers#r-112sw Mains - You could get great "bang for your buck" if you're willing to search for some used floorstanding speakers. Any of these would be a great upgrade compared to the RB-35's and would satisfy both the music and home theater request. The Forte II is one of the most well respected Klipsch speakers and can literally do it all. You'd be set for quite a while with a pair of these and you can find them in the $500 range... https://web.archive.org/web/20120202130901/http://www.klipsch.com/forte-ii-floorstanding-speaker The KLF-20 is another model that will do both equally well. It can provide better low end impact and dynamics than the Forte II (just my opinion having owned both). So it would be a bit better for movies, while the Forte II is smoother and maybe the more musical of the two. https://web.archive.org/web/20111208093703/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-20 Both of those are older models, but are relatively easy to find on Craigslist and eBay. And they are both 3-way designs with a big Tractrix midrange horn... Which, (again my opinion) I think sounds better than any of the current Klipsch 2-way designs. If you wanted to stay closer to what you have, then a pair of RF-5's (2-way) from the reference line would be a good upgrade. But I don't see those available on the used market as often... https://web.archive.org/web/20130128102525/http://www.klipsch.com/rf-5-floorstanding-speaker If you upgrade your mains, then move the RB-35's to the surround position, and move on to the sub or center channel. For the record... The KLF-C7 is the center channel match for the KLF-20's and works VERY well with the Forte II. https://web.archive.org/web/20120111110400/http://www.klipsch.com/klf-c7 Of course there are LOTS of options to choose from, so make sure whatever you get sounds good to you in your room.
  23. BusaDude

    Excel question

    There is no 255 line or data point limit and there's no reason to break out the VBA Macro coding for a relatively simple problem. At most you'll have 365 daily weights, unless your weighing multiple times daily. And you could break out the yearly figures on individual sheets, both of which are easily handled within Excel's sheets, rows and columns limits. Anyway, I did this on my phone using the mobile version of Excel. So I couldn't use range names to simply some of the formulas. But it will easily scale to however many rows you need using the absolute cell references in the formulas. And there's no reason to place the Min/Max weights over and over in each each row... So I just put it at the top of the column and used an absolute reference in each line/formula. I'm pretty sure the spreadsheet does everything you were trying to accomplish. But if not, let me know.
  24. I have a 2008 Elantra (135,000 miles and still running perfect) and the radio is good for background listening at best. However the CD player and the auxiliary input sound 10 times better. Broadcast FM music choices here in the DFW are pretty awful, so I mainly listen to the local ESPN channel. But when I want some music I stream KNAC.com through my phone into the car radio and it sounds great.
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