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PrestonTom

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Everything posted by PrestonTom

  1. Well, the OP did list footprint and WAF as criteria (albeit lower priority). Given the excessive size of the footprint and the absolute lack of WAF, it is hard to imagine that MCMs should be included in the final list.
  2. I confess that I am ignorant of the size of the Forte The Cornwall 2 is 390 sq in and the Forte 4 is 216 sq in. You are correct and the Forte is 45% smaller (please do not embarrass an old man and check his math). I used to own Cornwalls (1 & 2). I liked them quite a bit. I have heard the old Fortes and thought they were good. Are the new Fortes "that much better"? Note: I asked "better" not "prettier" The reason I am pushing the older Cornwalls is that they are available and affordable ( I am a cheap SOB and love a bargain).
  3. Well the price of the Forte IV's is now $5K a pair, - That is a lot of bucks. Is there that much more bang? Although it is not the best speaker, a used Cornwall or Cornwall2 has a good deal of bang for very little bucks (and they are readily available). So I would have to say those are the best bang for the buck. Yes, you can pay more for a speaker and get better performance, but then we run into our old nemesis, Mr Diminishing Returns.
  4. If you are referring to the "underground" Jubilees (Jubilee bass bin with two K-31s and the K-402 top & DSP crossover/EQ), the answer is: Yes, the Jubilee was easily the best at its price point (between $7-8.5k over the the last 15 years or so). This is compared to both other Klipsch products and also products from other manufacturers.
  5. I added the second part of the interview. So I am bumping this thread so folks are aware of the additional content. Enjoy
  6. Whatever the scenario, I hope Coytee's last words are not "Hey, hold my beer and watch this ..."
  7. Your Dad sounds like a real character! It looks like some of that rubbed off on you also. Good luck with your project.
  8. If you check one of Chris's threads look at his signature line and he has links to several archival threads that he created. In those he has good guides on how to set up the time alignment, filters and crossovers in order to minimize any large shifts in phase (using DSP units that do not provide FIR filters). Give that a try (his directions are clear and concise). If you want to take it the next step then the Xilica XD series (not the XP series) can be employed (note, they are more expensive) or a more affordable box might be something from mini-DSP (OpenDRC hardware with re-Phase software). Good luck, -Tom
  9. I disagree with that . The first priority is to get the amplitude spectrum to be fairly flat. After that, then worry about the phase spectrum. There are some obvious targets including a speaker accidently wired out of phase, or a time delay (group delay) due to physical alignment - but those are easy fixes with DSP. BTW, Most DSP does not have FIR filters. Devote your energy to the amplitude spectrum first. I have tried some of Chris's suggestions (he has provided useful guides on this forum). While the improvements (when "flattening" the phase spectrum), are noticeable, I find them a bit subtle. IMHO, I would not call them "night and day differences". That said, I will be employing them in my next "forever speaker"
  10. Let us take a step back for a moment. The poor guy has been waiting for about a year and it seems the excuses just keep coming. I believe these are priced at $35k-38k. I am sure the factory could figure out how to get some veneer (if that really is the problem). Just my uneducated and cranky opinion.
  11. I agree, when it is posted so openly, bad things will surely occur. I have no idea what the thought process was.
  12. Quoting TTops " ..........The value of the speakers is a difficult question to answer, as it depends on many factors like the local market, sales venue, condition, and many other variables. There are many things we don't know from these photos, but my arbitrary guess is that the speakers are probably worth somewhere between $1000 and $1800. I hope others will offer a more accurate assessment, and more photos will definitely help....... " I think your estimate is a reasonable one. There are too many unknowns on this one (do the drivers work, are these in the USA, have they seen flooding and mice etc) These are not really collector's items (and there are not many collectors anyway) and the condition is quite rough. They do have potential for the right buyer (at the right time and the right location etc) who needs a fairly time consuming "project". It just seems like quite a few "ifs". These might take a long time to sell, even at $1500.
  13. You need to be carefully about distinguishing "dynamics" and "dynamic range". They are not the same thing. The former is partly subjective (and comprised of several different phenomena) and the latter is objective (physically measurable). So what are "dynamics" ? Difficult to describe .... but you know it when you hear it
  14. If you go back and listen to those comments, I think he was being careful and listing what things might create good dynamics and also painting with a broad brush. My take away was that a number of things can contribute and the complete picture is not yet understood. Think of "dynamics" in terms of his observation about hearing a live piano in a noisy background (the anecdote about shopping in the mall at Christmas time).
  15. Claude, This is an odd way to encourage an expert to provide their insights. Personally, I am quite interested in the knowledge of experts. Many times listening is preferable to arguing. That is the extent of my insight.
  16. Interesting perspectives from a speaker engineer & designer who had an illustrious career at JBL. The interview is lengthy and not always crisp, but there are insights about "horn sound", relations and interactions between dynamics, dispersion, and efficiency, and the difficulty of understanding what creates good imaging. -Enjoy EDIT: There is now a Part TWO interview linked at the bottom of this post. As before the interview is lengthy and rambling, but educational. PART ONE: Part TWO:
  17. I am going to disagree on this! With high sensitivity speakers, the overarching issue is whether there is any hiss, hum or buzzing in the background. Non-linearities causing distortion are another matter. Especially since the distortion is generally a function of overall level. If it is only putting out a few watts (and putting out plenty of sound) there will be very little distortion. That is the beauty of a high efficiency speaker. The down side is that any background noise from the amp will be quite audible. Over at DIYAudio, there is fairly sophisticated discussion about "just how many watts do you need". The thread was started by a sharp guy ("Pano"). You would be surprised about what a tiny amount of wattage is actually required.
  18. I believe this is the Type B schematic for your Cornwalls. Leave the inductor and autoformer alone, but the 4uf and 2 uf caps are your target. Check the Parts Express website to see what they have. When I have done this in the past I simply used the Solen Polyprop caps. IIRC, sometimes it is hard to find a 2uf substitute, so feel free to use the more commonly found 2.2uf cap. If you want to get fancy then a spend a few dollars more and bypass (wire in parallel) a second cap across the main cap. This bypass cap should be about 1 or 2% the value of the main cap (approximately or even a little less). I like to use a Dayton film / foil as the bypass cap also available at the same website. There are also other brands to choose from and there are also ways ways to spend even more money (the sky is the limit). When you refresh the caps, you will notice a bit more energy in the high frequencies. Some folks will offer very flowery language about the "new found" sound. Given the price, it is certainly worth doing. Good luck, -Tom
  19. Certainly, JEM is one vendor, but there are others also. Search the threads.
  20. Shakey, you may be beating a dead horse. By now those who have the knowledge and the willingness to help, have probably left the room (for this particular thread).
  21. I have no idea what was originally promised ....... But that seems like a long wait. Unless there is something I am missing, it obviously seems unacceptable. Is there another side to this story (and I don't mean excuses ....)? Good luck, -Tom
  22. You have been extraordinarily patient! At least you have been able to hear them ahead of time, so you know that it is worth the wait. Do you have their new home all prepped and ready to go with all the other components lined up?
  23. My comments may seem a bit abrupt but I am trying to be helpful. A key finding in the the studies of Toole etc is that a speaker system (key word: system) sounds best when the dispersion is somewhat comparable across the spectrum. (measured by beam width or Directivity Index -DI). Three features are 1) the dispersion will always be quite wide for the lowest octaves, 2) dispersion will generally be narrow at the highest octaves (in part mitigated by clever use of a phase plug or vanes at the horn throat), 3) deviations in the dispersion (as a function of frequency) should be gradual (especially at the woofer to tweeter transition). When most talk about a horn's dispersion they are typically emphasizing dispersion on the horizontal plane and ignoring dispersion in the vertical plane. However, Roy has been very careful to give weight to the vertical plane also. That is why he frequently uses the term "coverage angle" in order to emphasize of importance of paying attention to dispersion in both planes. The K-510 controls dispersion (coverage angle) in both planes at about 1600 Hz and up. It actually controls dispersion down to about 500Hz in the horizontal plane. Have you guys looked at the specs on the JBL horn? Key point is what is the intended crossover frequency? Further, what is the dispersion of the woofer in that spectral region and is it comparable for the tweeter horn (especially in the horizontal plane)? Does the tweeter horn have any abrupt changes in dispersion across the spectrum (ignore the extremes for now) or are the changes gradual? You will see that the K-510 horn is actually quite a horn for such a little guy. Examination of the JBL shows some anomalies (including "pinching"). Are they big enough to matter? Who knows since it depends on the choice of crossover. Additionally are the anomalies big enough to have a perceptual impact. I don't know. So all in all, the comparison may be more complicated than simply repeating the mantra that "bigger is better". It depends ....... The other nagging issue is that the JBL horn needs a driver that is 1.4 or 1.5 inch and the K-510 horn uses a 2 inch driver (don't bother with an adapter, simply get the right size to begin with). Crossing the smaller driver at a low frequency can lead to distortion (especially if it is crossed with a shallow filter and played loudly). Again this is a system design issue and it is not clear what your target crossover might be. IOW, choosing a crossover point is determined or constrained by a number of things. I am not being negative. I just wanted to point out some system design considerations. Good luck, -Tom
  24. I guess my opinion of the K-510 differs from yours. I like it! In in fact if you cross it a bit higher than 1000Hz, then it is in the same ballpark as the big K-402 (not as good, but in the same ballpark). Please remember it is hard to judge a system until it has been setup correctly. This needs to be done first with careful measurement (the fine tuning by ear comes much later). When the engineers at Klipsch and JBL design the product, the crossover and balancing network is gone through many times and possibly judged by various listening panels and revised (rinse and repeat). In your case, the K-510 is a CD horn (comparable dispersion on and off axis). As such it will need some high end boost. You are also swapping drivers along with swapping horns. The SPL output will change. That needs to be measured and the system design will need to incorporate those measured differences. If you are using a generic passive crossover, your chance of success is bleak. It can be hard to judge the output "by ear". These are "designed" systems. I would encourage you to get an inexpensive DSP crossover (it does not have to be a Xilica) and install some software (REW or Holmimpulse ) and work from there. IOW, this is not accomplished in an afternoon and it is not accomplished "by ear". It is much more complicated. In either case, good luck, -Tom
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