PrestonTom

Just curious, are you serious about tinkering with a new crossover on a new cabinet?

Well, you always want to consider whether you are damaging your hearing by listening that loud !!! My own view is that fuses are great for protecting woofers but not very good for protecting tweeters. Several techniques are possible. One is to use back-to-back diodes (this was done on the type AA crossovers). Another is to incorporate an auto bulb protector. Search the threads by DJK for the schematic (it is a simple circuit).

Yes, I am nearby in Preston. I can contact you the middle of next week. Go ahead and have a look at how I and others have dressed up their Jubilees. With a bit of imagination, you might be able to fit them into your own living room. BTW, a few more posts and you will be able to PM (it is an anti-spam technique)

I think you need to talk to Klipsch or the dealer and not to forum members (we can not help you).

My friendly advice is to go with drivers either recommended by Chris in his design, or as close in specification as possible. There are various reasons for his recommendations, and suggested geometry and placement. Good luck with your project

I have no idea where you are located, but in my neck of the woods there are usually all sorts of deals on used Klipsch models listed on Craigslist. I regularly see Heresies, Cornwalls, Fortes, and various KG cabinets. My guess is that the asking prices are typically about 20-30% more than what they eventually sell for. As far as whether the speaker "shouts at you", that is tricky. The Klipsch sound, in general terms, is described that way by some. For others the same sound is described as having dynamics, impact, and clarity. Personally, I like their sound, but I also realize that it is not for everyone. Good luck, -Tom

Wise decision. Why not just spend the next couple of months listening, move the chair around a bit, change the toe-in a bit, move them toward a corner or away from a corner a bit and just listen and listen some more. They are good speakers. Enjoy them.

If it has not set for too long, you might be able to apply some more on the chance it will get the current residue to "dissolve" in to it and then wipe off the new (and not so new) entirely. I used to have to do this with Danish oil if I had not wiped off the surface completely and it was gummy the next day. I eventually learned my lesson. I agree about not wanting to start using abrasives on the veneer

Two points. First, the crossover is specific to the cabinet you have. A generic crossover seldom works. Second, crossovers usually don't fail. Most components last a life time (inductor, autoformer, resistor). Some components may deteriorate with age (capacitors). Unless there is a fuse in the crossover (or near), the system will still produce decent sound (even with some deteriorated capacitors). What is far more likely, is that the connections or a fuse have failed. Clean the connections (screw terminals on the board) and re-tighten. This can solve many problems. More importantly (and determine this before you start acting on advice via the internet), is what makes you think the problem is the crossover? You have not given any real information about what the specific problem is ( "crossover is gone" is not adequate). Simple tests include 1) are all the drivers not working? 2) if you swap the left and right outputs from your amplifier, does the "problem" go to the other side? 3) Are you (or a friend) comfortable with hooking up the output of the crossover from the "good side" to the "bad" side to see if the problem remains, 4) Do you have access to a RMS voltmeter? Unfortunately when someone gets on the forum and types "crossover" without any real description of the problem, then some members will immediately go into "upgrade mode". When this happens, regardless of the original problem, you get bombarded by suggestions of upgrades and needing to use magical capacitors that cost hundreds of dollars to "remove the veil" and open up the sound. I hope I have saved you some money, -Tom

This is sad news. My sincerest sympathy for you, your family, and your friends.

That is what usually happens. It is a good way to prevent seller's remorse.

Welcome Juan, Don't worry about the language, since your English is much better than my Spanish. It looks like you are interested in the re-designed Jubilee which will get introduced via a special anniversary edition this Summer. What Marvel says is absolutely correct. The problem is that the current Jubilee owners are enjoying the "original" version. None of us have heard the new version which has a larger footprint, different crossover point, a horn loaded port, factory DSP crossover and fancy new driver on the horn. This is quite a change although there is universal agreement that the designer (Roy Delgado) certainly knows what he is doing. None of us are in doubt that it will be a great product. However, all of this will come at an increase in price, possibly a very large increase. In a word, the difference in sound between this kind of design and the rest of the world is that horn loading gives a "dynamic" sound. Percusives and onsets will have a life-like quality of unrestrained and effortless dynamics. I would not use the word "warm". It will not sound like the Tannoy you have pictured (there are not many of them in the US). A side benefit of the horn loading is that dispersion is controlled so the "rest of the room" (reflections) is less interactive on the sound. Another consequence of horn loading is efficiency. These do not require huge mounts of power (wattage). The flip side is that an amplifier with any background hiss or hum can be quite audible. BTW, if you are interested in the current version of the Jubilee, they can be obtained from either Paducah Home Theater (I think I have that correct) and from American Cinema Equipment. I don't know if they are set up for overseas deliveries. Good luck, -Tom

The Adcom is a very good amp. The price you are looking at seems about 20-33% too high. This is compared to craigslist ads in New England. Has it been re-capped or something?

Now, I am confused. Are you saying that you want the top hat to do 800 Hz (or so) and above. Combined with subwoofer to go low and extend to 800 Hz (or so). If so, it sounds like you a looking for a woofer cabinet, not a subwoofer cabinet

The 2445 should be fine unless there is a problem with it. Try taking a DCR (resistance) measure and see if it is within 10% of the recommended value. A google search will get you to the recommended values. At the very worst, a new OEM diaphragm is only $80-90 good luck, -Tom

Before you say "no", have a look at some of the strategies folks have adopted to dress the Jubilees up a bit. See what Kudret, Rigma, etc (myself included) did to make them less industrial looking. The footprint is the same as a Klipschorn and can be tucked into a corner (believe me your wife will barely notice them ....). They really do sound that good. In fact there is (or was?) a used pair for sale by Arron?? in Connecticut at an attractive price

I had Jubilees in room that was 11 wide by 27 deep and 7.5 high. So I had the same ceiling "problem". The Jubilees sounded great. What part of the country are you in?

Most of the energy from a violin wold be coming from the mid-range. The tweeter will just add a tiny amount of "Brilliance". As far as a crossover going "bad", that is unlikely. What is more likely is that a connection is loose or possibly corroded. You can check & re-thighten the connections yourself (take a photo first).

I would be careful about a 9 volt battery on a tweeter

The cabinet will start to lose boundary gain (bass) when you elevate them. So not everyone agrees with the above recommendation. If you are worried about the beaminess of the tweeter, then modest stands with a tilt toward the listener should help. Is there furniture or a coffee table in the sound path or something?

There is a learning curve, but it is less than the curve for implementing an analog crossover. My friendly suggestion is to use a specific configuration done by BEC / Crites (he had several choices). Use one of those since Crites had already worked out a useable crossover for those particular configurations. Do not start swapping port geometries and cabinet volumes, drivers and horns around. Those changes would only alter what was originally designed to work as a system. If you do, then you would be in the quicksand of " .... but someone on the internet said it would sound good ...." Some careful decision making (and choice of compromises) up front will make the plan more successful. Good luck, -Tom

That is not exactly the case. First things first 1) are you interested in a two-way or a three-way system? 2) are you interested in a system with controlled dispersion (on-axis and off--axis frequency response is approximately comparable)? BTW, an active crossover has a number of benefits and does not need to be very expensive.

Definitely agree with the above. There are a huge number of 2 inch drivers available (and at various price points).

Given their age, it is interesting that the ad does not mention whether all the pieces actually work. I am sure that in their day, the owner was quite proud of them and they were an endless source of enjoyment.

Is there edge banding on the cabinet? Take a photo and we can help.