ClaudeJ1

Buy as many horns as you can, especially in the bass.

or that critical. I'm sure if you ask a 56 foot long sound wave (20 Hz.) it won't care about a 3/8 rounding bit of a dimension being off by 1/4 inch!!! lol

I would like to remark that it is important to try any component in your own system before buying it. Listening to demonstrations at a store won't tell you how the component that you're interested in will perform in your system. Even if you are purchasing a complete system from the store, you won't know how the speakers will sound in your room until you get home. Yes and the room acoustics.......hmmmm....let's see......make about a plus or minus 15 db peak/trough ratio difference on the sound (1,000: 1) vs. .000000001 db for cables, and where is the money spent first?

I can hear it now. "whut the heck is all this white stuff doin' heah?" Canadians have to deal with the most snow each year, so they are prepared. Nothing can prepare those who have never experienced how slippery this stuff make the roads. I'm sure the insurance companies will be busy for a while.

That observation applies to most of us here.For what its worth I'll throw in my suggestion. Look at Fastlane's horns with new drivers. http://mysite.verizon.net/res12il11/id106.html As was said earlier there are so many things you can do it will make your head spin. Maybe someone would create a concise order of impact to cost list. I heard his 400 horns with Golden Jube bottoms at Panacea's place about 1 1/2 years ago and they do really sound good.

I don't doubt that this is a great setup, but kind of an extreme recommendation for someone poking around for a few upgrades don't you think? People come here and ask for a speaker recommendation at about $1K and they are told to buy Jubilees so I guess this is normal here but yikes. Not rtrying to stir the soup or anything, but this just seems extreme (just a little ). Option B is new caps in his 35 year old AA networks. You, sir, presume too much and appear to be long on opinion and short on complete reading skills. First thing I mentioned was BUDGET consideration. Then I presented both extremes, the last one being "replace all your capacitors with Dayton Polypropylenes" at the low end of the economic scale. I have put my time and money where my mouth is and done both extremes and everything in between to get to the "great setup" you say you don't doubt, but seem bent on making your unnecessary comment on. On my presumption comment. I have learned that people will spend money on things they VALUE, regardless of their socio-economic status. I have always worked with used gear on a limited budget, putting in "sweat equity" rather than spend too much cash (diminishing returns is alive and well in Audio). Back in Jr. High, I spent paper route money on used EV SRO woofers in a big cab, so I was a member of the 1% club as defined by PWK when I was 14 and my life changed after hearing Khorns for the first time. I got a bank loan to buy brand new Khorns when I got my first real job out of college (1977). So while I understand the well intentioned spirit of your comment, it's just YOUR opinion and not necessarily that of others who may want to take the "short cut" which I proposed after 6 years of "beyond Khorns" evolution, experience, and wasted time and money. I had the same setup as PWK himself for 30 years, until I hooked up with Klipsch chief engineer and decided HT was in my future. BTW, a Jubilee IS a Klipschorn, it's the new improved 50th anniversary "decorator" model, roughly the modern equivalent of my old KCBR's.

Honker indeed, but they are SO worth it. Also, the absolutely do NOT honk. Just the most spooky realistic female vocals you have ever heard.

If I had a Manley and it was too noisy I'd be pissed. I've used six different tube amps on my Jubilees and none of them were noisy. I biamp most of the time and still haven't had that issue. However I did have noise when I was using actives. I have passives built by Bob that were designed by Roy. They have the low end eq boost. I have no need for subs which is good because I've only heard two that I've liked. Hmmmm. "Low end EQ Boost from a PASSIVE network." And without batteries to boot. Must be magic or really, really, advanced science. I'm about to go active shortly, so I hope I don't experience the noise you speak of.

You can't ask that question without giving us a budget. IMHO, the best option is to sell off the existing top end here (or store in attic), then buy a K402 with K1133. Get a DE 250 from B&C with a QSC horn like mine. Then buy a mini DSP Xover and tri-amp it (You can get a 2x8 for this or two 2x4's and a 12 V power supply at Radio Schack. You will get rid of the peaks in the horns, PEQ it flat to 32 Hz.. and TIME ALIGN everything for superior imaging. You can cross to the K402/1133 combo at an Amazing 300 Hz. for home use, which is where the Khorn bass starts to get a bit funky anyhow. This will blow away any other mod you can come up with, IMHO. YMMV. If you want to go the cheap route, just replace all your capacitors with Dayton Polypropylenes from parts express.

I read up that that amp's design. That guy really knows what he's doing technically and represents "new school" of thought. Not that there's anything wrong with the old school. Looks like you have the best of both worlds. Your amps highly efficient and the output transfer function with loudspeaker compensation where it counts, and the less efficient part used where greater efficiency and low frequencies are not needed.

Mike,I believe that Mr. Pass's notes on modified cascode design is apropos here (i.e., "modulated cascode" on highly loaded power FETs) - that is the real contribution that enables Pass's power FET designs. His designs are also pretty elegant, i.e., simple, and avoid the following issues that tubes have: 1) high output impedance (requiring feedback to lower) that usually results in having to add more amplifier stages. 2) exceedingly low tube reliability for my tastes (in fact, it's just silly). 3) resulting even harmonic distortion of low-gain single-ended tube designs with low dynamic headroom, or the not-so-good effects of cascaded push-pull gain stages in order to achieve sufficient feedback to lower the output impedance to something tolerable. 4) cost to achieve a really good amplifier design. These are important considerations. I urge listening to one. I've got one in the D/FW area... [ ] Chris Nice stuff, Chris. I have always been a fan of Nelson Pass since the mid 70's. That guy really knows about non-linear behaviors of man-made devices from mother nature's materials and how to tame them. If the infamous "Bazoom 1" power amp had really existed, it probably would have been a collaboration between he and Bob Carver. LOL.

We all have a problem. But it's a good problem to have. Much cheaper than gambling, smoking, or alcoholism.

That would be frequency correction only. The Mini dsp won't do corrections in the time domain like the others will. But of course. I would still use Audyssey for the room, which I have on 3 receivers.

I was there for a PPA digital photo convention and happened to walk in about 10 minutes after Paul had left. I asked about Paul, but didn't introduce myself to Roy, since they were busy tearing down the show. These speakers were pretty.

So does Trey Cannon of Klipsch. That's what he told me in 2007 when I heard them side by side in Indy.

you are in the 99.99th percentile of the world.

320 VBR with the Lame (best) encoder had been found to be indistinguishable from the original CD. The reason Apple and the other download service don't do it is it takes 2-4 times the data, and would slow down their $1.29 purchases times millions of downloads. It's all about the money, not the fidelity.

All you gotta do now is teach her how to crimp and solder, eh? Congrats.

Edgar, can you post your Hornresp TXT file for the Jube so I can import it? Thanks

Now you know why I'm using currently, an EVM 15L in my FH-1's, you should see how THOSE model in my new horns. Here's the EV (black line) vs JBL 2225 (gray line)

Also wanted to point out that the rental was a straight DVD (not Blue Ray) and Dolby D. Years ago, I took back an expensive Sony blue ray player because I couldn't tell the difference in the sound on the original Transformers DVD vs. Blue Ray version, only the picture quality. So I waited for prices to come down first. I think it's more the sound engineering rather than compressed vs. uncompressed in terms of SOUND. This "Dead in Tombstone" reminded me of this early comparison. Great sound and the picture was acceptable in a more economical format. I noticed that Family Video carries a lot of new titles in DVD only because not everyone has upgraded to Blue Ray. I suspect that some never will. When 4K comes around, I think they will be loading the movies onto thumb drives instead of renting plastic.

Well, I guess nothing beats the plane crash scene in FOTP, but, OVERALL, the amount of LFE used throughout the movie is what I'm talking about. Also like TRON.

Forgot to mention the custom 2.1 Mini DSP plug-in is $10, so about $220 for the whole thing..........automatic room correction. You can also do all kinds of other measurements with REW besides the Auto Mini DSP stuff. Just got mine yesterday, so I will keep you posted on progress, or lack thereof, if that's the case. LOL.

Those other product$$$$ are pricey options. Just get a Mini DSP 2x4 for $105, a $20 Radio Shack 12V. power supply, the Mini USP UMIK test microphone, and free REW software for your laptop. About $210 total. http://www.minidsp.com/

No need, if you don't hook up speakers to a 5.1 or 7.1 receiver, Audyssey ignores them on the second go-round (out of 3 or 6) and you end up with 2.1 with extra power supply umph on the remaining 2 channels, or you can just use the Pre-Outs to whatever 2 ch. and sub amps you have and it will still do it's thing on the signal side.