Blvdre

The Flame Linear, lol

For posterity......

It looks like a varistor (MOV), used to shunt excess current if the voltage climbs too high. Something took it out, maybe a big line surge. Not sure what the PN is.

The metal caps are original.

A friend of mine went through this with a pair of old Stratus Golds. He said the ferrofluid was gummed up something awful. Cleaning and replacement made a big difference.

That's untrue, the baffle can support the driver just fine. The bracing is used to move any resonances outside of the audible range.

Marvel, you are 100% correct, at least for my '78s. I pulled a K-33 today, and confirmed they use t-nuts, 4 screws. Memories can be unreliable. My apologies, I corrected my post above.

Lol

Power to Peter!

I have an old Pace desoldering station, which was useful for replacing through-hole PCB parts, but I haven't used it in ages. I use the Soldapullt instead. I've been using the same sucker for over 30 years, and it stills works like a champ. If you get some spare tips and O-rings, it'll last a lifetime

MJ, I remember reading a post about the hump, and that it is not caused by sidewall vibration. I'll try to find the post.... Edit: forget it. The forum search is not the best. Anyway, I believe it's caused by other design issues.

What type of horn is the ZXPC? If it's a constant-directivity type, you'll need compensation in the crossover to flatten the falling response.

I'm using terminals for easy changes (I always solder the crimped terminals, though. Can't help myself). I had started with an X-acto, but switched to a small rat-tail file, which sped things up. Cleaned up with acetone, ready to go.

No, not flux. They varnish the whole assembly, and I think you’re right: they figure people are going to solder to the tabs. I wouldn’t call it poor quality control, as the part is being built as intended. You could call it poor process, but masking costs extra, and the manufacturer is trying to hit a cost point. Inconvenient, though.

Resorted to acetone and a rat-tail file. Seems to have worked OK.

Installing my 3636 Autoformers and will be using terminals for connection (so that the mid attenuation can be changed on the fly). The manufacturer doesn't apply a mask on the autoformer tabs before varnish is applied to the part, so they're all covered in the stuff. I tried burning off with my iron, but it's a mess and does a bad job of it. Any ideas for cleaning these up?

Edit: My '78 La Scalas have t-nuts for the k-33, and only four screws to secure them.

You stated Erse caps are much better than Dayton; based on what information?

Any interest in trading for a pair of K-77 (square magnet), and a pair of K-55V (spring-loaded posts) plus cash?

The ad says, "Crossovers are Eminence 500/5000", so an off the shelf crossover with a hodgepodge of drivers. Nope.

14 awg is fine. I'm an advocate for replacing old wire, since it's easy and cheap to do.

Looked closer at that pic, I can see corrosion throughout that cable. It belongs in the trash.

Good to know. The local college station, WRUV (where Russ Kinsley started), had the same issue for years. Not a problem when recording to tape, but still irritating.

Thanks for the tip. I live in Burlington, and had not heard of this.

Ouch. That's going to leave a mark.