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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. I would do 4 corner ports personally. Corner triangular ports will strengthen the cabinet and reduce turbulence.
  2. Look for the large vented cabinet. >here<
  3. Adding mass like veneer may change the frequency of the resonance a bit but its not going to help with the problem. Bracing will fix the issue, panel flex is proportional to the square of the unbraced span.
  4. Do the sub crawl, reposition and re-calibrate.
  5. No need to add material to the side of the cabinet. Table Tuba or THT is a great choice to solidify the bottom end.
  6. 1/4" ply over the 3/4 will not stiffen the cabinet much at all, its just not the same as 1" material though you would think so. Bracing is really the way to make it right, might be a bit more work but worth the time and be sure to brace the inside of the cabinet ( where the woofer is) as well so you have bracing all the way from one side to the other.
  7. Google subwoofer crawl and follow the instructions, its a good basic way to position the subs. This is probably the main problem just by looking at the setup.
  8. Cabinet size depends on driver T/S parameters. You can't just shrink a cabinet without consequences. Most blow so much money on speakers and amps that subs are an afterthought or have only this >[]< small space left for a sub and wonder why it does not sound that great in the end.
  9. Old school phone lines can get you as well.
  10. Works like a port, just a tuning device.
  11. The Sixes are the way to go if decent sound is the goal.
  12. 100 % Positive. As far as i know Klipsch has not used any spacers to mount the K-33 or K-43 but use a thicker gasket to keep the cone from contacting the motorboard. Maybe some think because it has less Xmax it should be OK but really this has little meaning in this instance.
  13. Black cabinets need black paint, there are a few ways to get them looking better. Black permanent marker- cheap but works OK. Black touch up paint- apply to scratches carefully. Give them to a local auto body shop and have them prep and paint will give the best results. Duratex is another alternative. Do it yourself prep and rattle can spray.
  14. Any oil based finish will darken the wood and many yellow over time, the only finish that will really leave the wood natural is wax and any good car wax will do. Nothing wrong with water based finishes, i have used water based Poly on many wood floors & cabinets with great results and longevity, this would be the second best natural looking finish using a matte finish.
  15. The Eminence Kappa 15 C is not just a drop in replacement in the La Scala, you will either need to double gasket the woofer (witch i don't recommend) or make a simple spacer out of plywood so the cone does not slap against the motorboard. Adding a good sub takes away any negatives in the replacement of the K-33.
  16. Not a real comparison, 2 different speakers with different needs in two different areas of the room. About as useless of a comparison as you could get. Until you get either in your room setup with your gear its a coin toss.
  17. Once you get below tuning the woofer moves quite a bit. In the case of the Chorus II you will never hear the passive overexcursion until its too late. You may gain a few Hz in the bottom end extending the ports but you will give up something else in return hence my sub recommendation.
  18. Nothing is free in the audio world, its all give and take.
  19. Leave the ports alone, add a proper sub to strengthen the bottom end.
  20. You will never get a sander into the back section of the bottom panel, sanding the front section will make it look worse as it will never match throughout the panel. I recommend matte Polyurethane or wax in place of spar varnish for the natural look.
  21. Soundbars suck. I second the little amp and bookshelf option.
  22. Avoid goo gone ( contains Petroleum distillates ). 100% Silicone spray may work.
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