jason str

I wouldn't let mine go for that price, its hard to find clean examples.

If it were my choice between the two brands i would look for a Marantz 2238 or better. Lots of them were made, look around, sometimes they pop up on Craigslist.

Love the natural colors, wish my backyard had one.

If it has voids in it forgetaboutit. Maybe you have a local lumberyard around that carries Auraco plywood ? Birch would be the way to go if you can find the good stuff. I need to drive 40 minutes then pay out the @$$ for my baltic birch but at least i can get it locally. Menards, Home depot & Lowes dosent carry anything worthwhile around here.

Veneered plywood is great for making nice looking furniture, not good for a resonating bass cabinet. The outer veneer will not hold up well.

If Auraco plywood is available i would use that, its priced cheap, void free & holds up well. Stay away from plywood with a thin outer veneer, it dosent hold up to gluing well. The Birch from Menards probably has a thin veneer, avoid it if it does. The only time i use MDF is if i have too witch is rarely.

Nice Sun Scope, i worked with those for years back in my racing days. Good for lots of diagnosis before everything became computerized. Does it still work ?

Cold is right, after the bombardment of knee high + snow the cold set in and burst a waterpipe last night, spent all day repairing plumbing & drywall.

I use stainless myself, works great until you burn somehing on it. Also have one cast iron skillet that is used often, once you break them in it makes for a nice pan.

Nice looking truck. I had problems in the past also, when i lived in Cicero i had 2 cars stolen & 1 battery. Whats funny is one was a green hornet wagon with a 3 speed manual column shift and the linkage would pop off frequently at stoplights so you would have to get out, open the hood and reaffix the linkage. Why they wanted that toilet is anybodys guess. The 84 Cutlass was mint until i got it back with a bald rear tire, slipping tranny & tore up steering column. It was found stting on Cermack not too far from the house. Glad things worked out for you without too much hastle.

I totaly agree, horns rule. My first time hearing the THT my first thought was so that's what a bass guitar supposed to sound like. You hear the string and not the woofers version of what it thinks the string should sound like, everything else is just icing on the cake.

I like it very much, digs deep and very musical sound. Not a matched pair though, one has a 10" and the other one a high output 8. Right now I'm really just experimenting with different things. Good to test them out anyways before selling them just to be sure I'm producing quality stuff + I'm a beleiver of breaking in drivers.

I was wondering the same thing.

Lower distortion.

Very nice, Marantz receivers are hard to beat for a nice starter system. I remember my father unboxing his 2265 when i was a kid. The downside is i remember easily bottoming out his Altec Valencia's woofers, something the old Fisher could never accomplish. I want one for my workshop, i think they sound better than my old Pioneer SX-780 does.

I see in your sig you modded your Klipsch Sub 12 with a Dayton Ultimax 12 driver. Did you remove the port and seal the cabinet ? That driver needs a much bigger cabinet if its still ported. I have heard receivers that sound better than separates and vice versa. You have nothing to lose except some hard earned cash trying out an external amp, if nothing else it will take the strain off your receiver's power supply.

All these posts in the garage sale section and not one garage for sale.

You can load the THT using your wall, floor, ceiling or corner, the mouth of the horn should be approximately 18" away from the surface for best results. I ran mine facing me directly into my listening position and it sounded great. Wall, corner, ceiling or floor loading will give more volume but its really not needed with the output the THT produces.

Good news, but I think its funny that two table tubas are "2 smaller subs." I don't own any small speakers, my smallest ones are some old school 4 ways in the garage. If i could get the same sound out of some "little cubes" and a "Bass module" as i do my La Scala's and a horn sub i would do it in a heartbeat. 1 long style Table Tuba can be made as small as a 12x15 footprint, not too bad if height's not an issue.

CPUID hardware monitor is another one. Download

Doing more experimentation with these subs i connected two 16" Table Tuba's in series to my 240 watt dayton amp and what a difference it made to the bottom end. No more having to constantly adjust the volume & frequency settings to get it to sound right (maybe im just overly picky). 2 smaller subs are easier to place too.

I have been using Artic Silver 5 thermal paste for some time now, i recommend using it. Not expensive either, one tube will cover many CPU's. The thermostat is not on the heatsink, at least i have never seen one located there.

Replacing old CPU paste is a must with older computers, it turns into a cake like substance with age and looses its ability to transfer heat. What i use to clean my CPU & heatsink is an old T-shirt and Everclear, it works good and dries quickly. Just a small pea sized drop of paste is all you need between your CPU & heatsink. What i used to do when i was into heavy overclocking is sand the CPU & heatsing flat to create more surface area for heat transfer, most CPU's have a slight convex shape to them.

My vote would be to go with a fully horn loaded system if you want an upgrade.

An amp sitting idle should not overheat. I highly doubt running an amplifier full time will shorten its lifespan except maybe for the fan bearings. If the power supply is rated at 8 or so amps or under you should be fine using the 18 gauge wire. You can always upgrade the cord at a later time if it worries you.