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jason str

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Everything posted by jason str

  1. Could very well be the earlier Chorus used plywood in the construction as mentioned. The cabinet material description implied by Klipsch says MDF but it seems this must be taken with a grain of salt. Information on Chorus and k-48.pdf
  2. Horn loaded subs put out clean effortless bass, its worth the extra effort if this is the goal. The THTLP just stands on end firing up into the ceiling using minimum floor space. What kind of system components are you using ?
  3. Post a picture for the OP, i have no doubt Klipsch used scraps available at the time so not to waste good stock. My point was not to expect plywood where MDF was specified.
  4. You could just google stock Chorus & Chorus II photo's, both are MDF including the front and back. >Link< >link<
  5. I have had 3 sets of Chorus II, 2 purchased new and one used. All were MDF including the one set still remaining here. Never had a Chorus to investigate.
  6. Dayton makes plate amplifiers with built in DSP if you are only interested in EQ for the sub(s), they offer built in high pass for the mains as well. <Link>
  7. Pre stain wood conditioner will take care of the blotchy stain problems associated with the material. Water based with water based and oil based with oil based, then just follow the instructions on the can.
  8. I recall a Klipschorn anniversary edition mentioning driver matching but don't remember witch one.
  9. Next is driver matching, why not since they are running them right ? Another few grand for the process... There has to be a compromise and breaking in a new set of speakers is just part of ownership.
  10. 6-8 weeks for a build is not much time at all for custom work, again you don't know what is involved in the process.
  11. Same reason a $20 driver won't sound its best until its broken in. They are new and not broken in. Break in time varies from driver to driver. Who better to know how long one of these drivers in the design takes to break in than the ones who have been testing them ?
  12. Just because you don't hear anything does not mean there is no difference, somebody who cannot hear a difference from one piece of gear from another may not hear obvious changes from a driver that is new to one that is broken in. Take measurements if you can't hear the difference, that will tell you what you want to know.
  13. jason str

    Mom

    Funeral was nice, Mom had lots of friends and relatives come from near and far. Thank's to everybody for their kind gestures here on the forum. The future will be different but memories of Mom will stay forever.
  14. jason str

    Mom

    Thank you everyone for your prayers and well wishes, it means a lot to me.
  15. jason str

    Mom

    Mom died suddenly of heart failure last Sunday morning. Bless her heart for dealing with Dad's and my refrigerator sized speakers, closets of records and C/D's for the past 50 + years and being a dam great mother. Miss her dearly. Obituary
  16. DuraCrest fabrics. <link>
  17. A simple filter is cheaper than replacing a driver or four, just giving proper advice.
  18. No corners = you need LaScala's & proper sub.
  19. Best to use a 24 dB/octave high pass filter to protect the woofer.
  20. I have had 2 sets, the old set from late 80's and newer to me late 70's. Both had bass bin resonance, luckily spent time on the refurbish on my newer to me set and added bracing to remove any signs of the irritating noise.
  21. I would do 4 corner ports personally. Corner triangular ports will strengthen the cabinet and reduce turbulence.
  22. Look for the large vented cabinet. >here<
  23. Adding mass like veneer may change the frequency of the resonance a bit but its not going to help with the problem. Bracing will fix the issue, panel flex is proportional to the square of the unbraced span.
  24. Do the sub crawl, reposition and re-calibrate.
  25. No need to add material to the side of the cabinet. Table Tuba or THT is a great choice to solidify the bottom end.
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