JohnA

Of those 2, Luxman. But, consider old Yamaha CR-x00, -x10 and -x20, Marantz from the 70s, 22xx, and Technics SA- with discrete output stages (500/50 watt and higher). Kenwood and Sansui made pretty nice gear, too, but I had Tuner/Integrateds by then, a KA-7100 and a KT-5500(?). I don't understand the nostalgia for Pioneer. It was junk in the '70s, carried by low end shops. Still looks like the Blose of electronics.

Valentine 1 for sale. SN 1441641307. Not quite 3 years old. Excellent condition, comes with all boxes, manual and accessories, most never used. It was hardwired and used a mirror mount. $225 + $15 shipping.

Sounds like a production change. The question (for E-V) is was it because of part availability/cost, or driver/sound quality. If you like the sound, replace in kind.

Hi Chris, Why 1/4 wave and not 1/2 wave? The OEM drivers are rather flat from 200 to 2000 and then have a spikey plateau 6 dB above 200 to 2k band, from 3500 to 12k. I curved them out of the car. My first attempt with replacements has been good, but there is some oddness in tenor and Alto voices. I dont think they are fed any thing below ~300 Hz.

Because it is part of a Blose audio system. The unknown, built-in EQ interferes with the test and dragging the gear out there to bypass the Blose, is not yet worth the effort.

Perhaps a more practical answer is a Heresy I with a crossover modified to be as similar as practical to the Type AAs in your La Scalas. That is also the center I use, mounted above the TV. It often fools my GF into thinking the TV speakers are on.

What does placing speakers in the corner of a car dash and bouncing the sound off the windshield do to frequency response? How can I calculate/estimate/guestimate the effect?

I covered the edge plys with 3/4" x 3/4" cherry and stained to match. Makes a nice frame for the upper grille. i suggest lining the opening for the squawker horn with 3/4" heavy felt.

I'll bet your Cornwalls are 1981s. If '82, they would be early '82. That tweeter is post '79. A K-55-V is generally pre-'82, though that was the transition year.

Both, on different walls near mid-wall, and/or add another 15" sub to the HT system, again with at least 2, placed near mid-wall.

If you know the EQ applied by the built-in amp (or can test to find out), replicate it with an outboard amp. If not, fix the one you have. After it's fixed, you'd be able to sell and replace it.

That looks line a Klipsch Professional SN. I'm gonna guess one that low is from 1977-ish. Component list will tighten the age.

E-V once told me the K-55-M was a modified version of an "1824, or 1828, or something like that". So, I think you have 2 -Ms with one missing sticker. The Type AL crossover is appropriate for the -Ms, but it is a miserable sounding thing. It will need to be replaced, or converted. The Type AL-3 crossover is a pretty good one; keep it. Use the mismatches to negotiate the price down. Though I would find and buy a Type AL-3 (even try 1-800-KLIPSCH), converting a Type AL to a -3 doesn't look hard. The 13 uF squawker cap implies a T2A autoformer could substitute for a T4A. https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/113804-klipsch-crossovers/

Yeah, looks Great!

Realistically, no. But, it won't hurt beyond your wallet. Your power demand during a movie, perhaps excepting a heavy metal concert, will normally be just a few watts and peak well under 100. That's how the manufacturers can get by with too small power supplies, They just aren't used. A better solution for quality sound would be to a a multi-channel power amp for all channels and use your receiver as a pre/pro. It is an additional layer of complication and turn-on/turn-off sequence begins to matter. Look at Parasound, Acurus, Emotiva, Marantz, Rotel, Integra. At the cost of adding a quality amp, you may see that replacing your receiver with a muscular, high quality receiver a better choice. http://www.integrahometheater.com/Products/model.php?m=DRX-R1.1&class=Receiver&source=prodClass#prettyPhoto I have the room and am willing to accept the complication, so I have all separates with 3 power amps and 9 channels.

I'm with you Cal! I haven't been to a movie theater since last summer, at least. It sounds waay better at home. And I can make popcorn, too!

And short the input terminals to protect the woofer voicecoils. The magnets will hold the cones mostly still that way.

My conjecture: Thinking about this, it looks like the corner is actually an imperfect extension/expansion of the bass horn. There should be a region in a bass horn's area expansion where a 90 degree corner is a pretty good approximation of the mouth area and increases in area for the needed additional area, for a few feet. I'll bet the K-horn size is about that right mouth area. A scaled down K-horn would have a mouth area likely too small and the discontinuity would mean it got less benefit from the corner.

Rick has his reasons and opinion, but I can't agree. The Type AA tweeter filter cuts a 105-106 dB hump in the K-77's response and is steep enough to protect a K-77-M in home use without the diodes. To my ears, the difference is important.

I've told this several times. In about 1977 (the days of quad and bell bottoms), while owning Marantz Imperial 7s, I went into Audio Systems, near the Exit/In, in Nashville. While looking at stuff I could actually afford, I heard a thunderstorm. "Can't be", I said to myself! Even went outside to look and found a blue sky. Went back in and found the high end room playing "Tales Of Mystery And Imagination" through Klipschorns. 😳 Next was some live Charlie Daniels, in quad, with Belle Klipsch rears. Felt just like the Volunteer Jam! Finally, they played Santa Esmerelda's "Please Don't Let Me Be Misunderstood". "What's wrong with my leg?!" The bass drum was flapping my bell bottoms!!!! The volume was loud, but not so loud you couldn't talk over it. Not subtle. It took college and 20 years to afford La Scalas, but I finally got 'em!

Having heard FIIIs and RF7? side by side in the same room, I'd pick FIIIs. the midrange is cleaner/sweeter/purer. RF7s have a noticeable change in timbre from the woofers to the horn, in the midrange.

You should disconnect at least one side to get a good reading. Expect the woofer to show near 3.2 ohms, the squawker to show about 11.6 and the tweeter to show 7.2-ish DC resistance. But really, it they are all playing, without distortion, they are good. Capacitors don't wear, but their internal resistance and capacitance may change from chemical changes with time. Thirty years has been the age when the caps usually become suspect, though I had a 52 y.o. Heresy that did not need new caps. Those old ones were never all that great, compared to modern designs with better materials available, now. If they need replacement, the khorns will sound polite, recessed or distant instead of forward, out in the room and bold. Klipsch are rarely (never) reserved sounding. Replacement in kind is not hard, if you can solder. You will want to use a good to excellent film and foil capacitor. They will not be cheap. Metalized film caps are adequate in some places, but you have the Flagship and I would recommend against metalized.

Heresy IVs. Enough bottom no subwoofer needed. I'm powering mine with a Technics SA-300 (35 wpc). I find this return to basic 2-channel system to be a complete delight.

Not too common, but 7 channels are. Now that I see what you are wanting, this, driven by a stereo preamp is closer. Few Home Theater receivers will do All-channel stereo. Onkyo/Integra do. https://www.bestbuy.com/site/rotel-480w-6-0-ch-power-amplifier-black/5708431.p?skuId=5708431

Side tweeters are modifications or Speakerlab SKs.