geoff.

I would love to see what's inside those if you ever get around to putting a Philips to the drivers. They might sound pretty damn good, all four together, with some EQing.

...not gonna lie, my morning coffee wasn’t as satisfying

...shouldn’t you be building amps, LOL! ”A man’s got to know his limitations.”

So what was the consensus here? Hot Zeners or fried woofer?

@SonicSeeker, heat is a killer for capacitors. It is really easy to fry the capacitors if you leave the soldering iron on them too long. This knowledge is from personal experience, lol. Another poster had the humility to share his similar experience years ago too. If the iron doesn’t have enough watts it takes too long to work. Touch and go. I used “cheap” caps on a pair of Chorus 2 crossovers years ago and could not discern any difference after the refresh. I used “cheap” caps on a pair of AA crossovers recently and the difference was day and night. “Better” quality caps are always larger than what came out and take a little finagling so that brings me to the other thing I remember. Take your time.

https://logovectorseek.com/klipsch-group-inc-logo-vector-svg/ This was the “vector file” that @ArmandCroft shared in another thread where he wonderfully restored a pair of KP-301s. I wouldn’t know what to do with it, but my guess is you could send it off to someone that does. I forgot to see if he mentioned the company he used...

There was another member on here that just refreshed a pair of KP-301s. He had some skills and connections in that department. He had some ”Klipsch” logos made up. Coincidentally, like the ones that normally grace the bottom right corner of the LSI bass bins, and between the tweeter and squawker on later model LSIs. Lemme have a look...

I think we are all on the same path in this forum, unfortunately or not we all just really need to walk it ourselves before we can appreciate the steps others talk about. It was a giant step for me to spend more than a weeks take home pay on my first pair of La Scalas. And like @Racer X said, I kicked myself for not doing it sooner. I remember a PM with another member years ago where we both came to the conclusion if we had just taken all the money spent along the journey so far, at that time, we could have bought a pair of Jubilees had we known where we were headed. Thankfully the price of Jubilees is now far more than I spent by a factor of at least three so I don’t feel so bad anymore. Or so I tell myself, lol.

I wasn’t going to steal anyone’s thunder, and I know everything is up to the individual’s preference, BUT... If you are going to put any money into any mod on a vintage pair of La Scalas, after even an inexpensive re-cap of the crossovers, THIS is going to be the one that is going to give you the biggest bang for the buck. Combined with the K-43 that comes stock in the LSIs, the SMAHL and DE-120 tweeter combination take it to another level.

The LSIs have K-43 woofers, yours should have the PWK dustcaps (cool) but you will never see them unless you dust out the doghouse. The K-43 really rocks in these. The re-cap is a good thing, I could hardly hear the tweeters on my AAs until after a re-cap. If yours are the fibreglass version you are really blessed, less resonance, love the metal terminal plates and the big stencilled Klipsch logos on the sides.

If you used a real estate agent, that would be one of the questions they get paid to answer, lol.

When my teenage boys were just little squirts they would often ask me if I liked a song that was playing. Since the songs were almost always from my collection I would answer unbiasedly “if it makes you want to dance, tap your toes, smile, or takes you away to another place, it’s good”. One of my favourite tunes at baby Jesus’s birthday is Run DMC’s Christmas In Hollis. Having said that, I don’t get Drake though...

Free plug here... I don’t think you could buy the Crites (read better) version of the T2A autoformer on these boards for the cost of these. And you get the Crites (read better) version of the ubiquitous 2.5 mH coil, a couple of fine caps, the barrier strips, boards and wires with connectors already crimped! These boards are one one 13uF cap per board away from an A crossover. One cap and a coil away from an A/4500. Two caps and a coil away from an AA. For starters! Three months ago I would have tripped over my phone to snag these.

fuse holders and fuses?

...you got a permit for those nail clippers?

...tell me the store clerk isn’t traumatized, and damn lucky they didn’t have guns. What a stupid way to get your thrills. They probably have college funds. I pray the kid survives and the clerk acquitted of any charges for neutralizing the threat, in this case.

@Takapunaman, congratulations on your efforts and success! Wholeheartedly agree with @PrestonTom and @Racer X. Give them a while to get used to that fresh NZ air. The farther you can get them out from the back wall the deeper the soundstage will go, and better to have nothing in between them if possible. I’ve been fortunate enough to have owned La Scalas first with the AL-3, second AA and lastly AL crossovers and I was surprised to find I had no immediate objections to the sound of the ALs despite years of bias on the forums and being predisposed to the sound of the other two. If anything I was more disappointed with the highs using the AAs, none of them recapped. The AL crossover attenuates the mids by 6db compared to 4db on the AL-3s and 3db on the AAs. Please keep us in the loop!

Ok, there was something else I thought I had read in a post on here from the past. Something about cascading failures in a speaker or crossover possibly causing serious damage to the amp? I know from personal experience all I have ever done is fried the tweeter, or had the amp’s protection shut it down. But is there a risk to the amp if part of the equation is removed by an open circuit across the tweeter leg of the crossover?

With regards to no bass, I wonder if the HK receiver has it’s main speakers set to “small” instead of “large” or whatever the HK equivalent nomenclature is? I had an Onkyo (still do) that cut off the bass under 80hz when set to “small”.

Hello @BT Raulerson, and welcome to the forum. Cornwalls are fun. They come alive the moment sound comes out of them. Looks are secondary to sound for me so let’s get to that first. You mentioned the amp used now doesn’t seem to satisfy these speakers. What is it that is lacking to your ears, which are all that matter. I was fortunate enough years ago to have a pair of ‘79 Cornwalls at the same time I had a pair of ‘84 Cornwalls. I preferred the ‘84s so I sold the ‘79s. I think a lot of that had to do with the design of the crossovers specific to each production run though. Neither were re-capped. Up until ‘81 they had the “B” crossover with simple first order crossover slopes, the harder you push them the harsher they sound. They “fall apart” fast. From ‘81 to ‘83 they had the “B-2” crossover with second order filters on the woofer and tweeter using the same drivers that are in your ‘79s. From ‘84 until the release of the Cornwall 2 in ‘86 they had the “B-3” crossover, but it used a different midrange so it is not applicable to your ‘79s If you replace the caps you will hear more energy in the squawker and tweeter, for better or worse. If you change to a B-2 crossover you will likely find an improvement in the sound you perceive. New caps are probably the way to go, but there are several philosophies on which to use. Hopefully others will chime in with their direct experiences with these. But that tweeter in your ‘79s should be the very fragile round magnet Alnico version so you if you listen too loud you could blow it easily. I think they are rated for 2W (!). When I auditioned the ‘79 Cornwalls before buying them the seller had them hooked up to an AV receiver that had some inherent EQ and they sounded amazing. Upon further inspection at home I found one tweeter was in fact blown. I replaced them both with the more robust square magnet K-77-M before eventually selling them. As to your amp, all woofers love watts, but gentle slope crossovers don’t. Give that 200 watter a go and be careful with the volume. Somewhere around 9 o-clock should give you a big smile without frying your tweeters.

Were they bigger than you remembered? Lol

@SonicSeeker, if the price is right go get ‘em. You will always wonder “what if” if you don’t. Do you think you could sell them again in a heartbeat for what they cost? As has been mentioned on here before, that’s free rent while you give them a try in your own home. If the answer is “yes” it’s a no-brainer. I have never owned Chorus 1s, I have had a couple pairs of Chorus 2s and Cornwalls over the years and still have a pair of KP-301s (pro version of Chorus). I went head to head with the Chorus 2s and KP-301 and wound up keeping the KP-301s when forced to decide which to keep for space constraints. My son and I preferred the ported bass of the KP-301s over the passive radiator Chorus 2s. It’s tricky to describe, but the bass seems more consistent, not prone to over-emphasis? Seemed to result in a little more definition at perhaps the expense of a little low end rumble.

...I’m holding out for the magic spray that allows electrons to flow more naturally allowing the maximum dynamic range and transient response possible in any system while improving longevity I already have silicone spray but it isn’t marketed properly

...I can’t believe they lasted this long

I recently put some cheap Solens with the correct values in a stock pair of AAs that always fell short of my expectations, almost like the tweeters were blown. It was day and night.